Comma AI Owner Demo Drive Connect Thread

[Stevetom84]

I'm a Comma 3X owner for about 2 months, and although it's largely been pretty good, there are two things that really frustrate me that I just can't figure out:

1) My Comma 3X's lane centering really biases towards the right side of the lane, so much so that in narrower roads, the right tires are running on the right road lines/border. I can't figure out any option to adjust lane centering bias.

2) I also have the longitudinal upgrade. When following the vehicle in front of me, it leaves way too long a gap, even in "Aggressive" mode. Rivian's stock ACC closes the gap much more tightly.

The build I've been using is sunnypilot staging with default settings. The Comma 3X is mounted immediately beneath the rear view mirror, centered with the rear view mirror.

Anyone have similar issues or suggestions?

Have you tried doing a recalibration or a using a different driving model, like Tomb Raider 7, Tomb Raider 10, WD40, or Down to Ride?

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[locnload]

Near Huntington Beach, CA and would love a demo

 

[gerrylum]

Near Huntington Beach, CA and would love a demo

Maybe you and @jcornish could meet up somewhere inbetween?

2) I also have the longitudinal upgrade. When following the vehicle in front of me, it leaves way too long a gap, even in "Aggressive" mode. Rivian's stock ACC closes the gap much more tightly.

Here's stopping distance/behavior on the Comma 4 using CoolGWM driving model. The video exporting from the Comma 4 is still a bit wonky with the UI overlay, but you should get the idea.

 

[xinaes]

What driving model are you using? Have you tried others to see if they have better lane bias? Lane centering seems to be a strange beast - some people have lane bias (right or left) but others have none and it can be on the same driving model.

The gap is larger than stock ACC, but still within acceptable range to me. It typically stops with 9-10m between me and the car in front, and I think anything between 8-10m is ok, so it's definitely on the far end of that range but not bad. What's yours stopping at? You can bring up the developer stats on the screen to see what the numbers are.

I've been using the Sunnypilot build but am open to trying others. Any other recommendations?

The gap typically is around 2 - 4 seconds (i.e. the time between when the car in front of me passes by an arbitrary road marker and when I pass it) on both local and highway speeds.

When stopping, the gap is fine. It's when it's in motion that the gap is too long.

 

[xinaes]

Have you tried doing a recalibration or a using a different driving model, like Tomb Raider 7, Tomb Raider 10, WD40, or Down to Ride?

I've recalibrated multiple times. I've even done the questionably unsafe thing of slightly rotating the Comma 3X (it's on a windshield mount with a little slack in the joint) to bias the camera facing right in hopes of tricking it to bias steering more left, but after an initial correction towards center, it continues biasing to the right.

Do y'all have it mounted to the right of the rear view mirror (despite standard instructions to the contrary)? I was at one point tempted to try that, but I hate the idea of having to remove the sticky tape residue off the glass and reposition the wiring path yet again if it didn't solve the problem.

Of the multiple builds you mentioned, which would you recommend I try first? In that order?

 

[gerrylum]

I've recalibrated multiple times. I've even done the questionably unsafe thing of slightly rotating the Comma 3X (it's on a windshield mount with a little slack in the joint) to bias the camera facing right in hopes of tricking it to bias steering more left, but after an initial correction towards center, it continues biasing to the right.

Of the multiple builds you mentioned, which would you recommend I try first? In that order?

It should be mounted centered on the mirror "hump" on the mirror housing. That's actually the center of the windshield.

Try different driving models - not different builds. I mention it at the end of the video when going over how to change settings using Sunnylink Dashboard. You can select and install different driving models that have slightly different driving behaviors. You're probably currently using the default driving model.

 

[Gigabit]

I've been using the Sunnypilot build but am open to trying others. Any other recommendations?

The gap typically is around 2 - 4 seconds (i.e. the time between when the car in front of me passes by an arbitrary road marker and when I pass it) on both local and highway speeds.

When stopping, the gap is fine. It's when it's in motion that the gap is too long.

For my driving style, Rivian ACC is better when there is traffic, the follow distance is much more natural (and adjustable). Comma Longitudinal control stopped way too far from the car in front of me, the follow distance below 20mph was crazy. From my testing, the Comma wanted to be 100ft from the car in front. Sometimes it would get as close as 50-60ft but that was near a stop.

Differences from what I have noticed testing between the two systems

From Stop to 10mph

Comma: would regularly stop 30-50ft from car in front, felt like a large gap, sometimes comically large.
Rivian ACC: gets close at stop, stop between 10-30ft. More natural but occasionally a little larger than I would have picked.

From 10-30mph

Comma: stay between 50-80ft follow distance. When someone merges into your lane closely, Comma would apply the brake medium amount (this means it was more than what I would naturally choose to apply the brake) making it undesirable to use at low speeds in traffic
Rivian ACC: would get naturally closer, 20ft to 60ft, when someone merges into your lane closely, rivian is smoother allowing some time in the algorithm before it reacts. Has an occasional medium break check but much less than Comma.

From 30-80mph
Comma: Target seemed between 100-160ft follow distance, felt comfortable acceleration is overall smooth.
Rivian: Target seemed 100-150ft follow, felt comfortable, acceleration a tad faster than Comma.


Overall the Comma does what it does well. After testing back and fourth the two Longitudinal systems I choose to daily the Rivian ACC. Rivians handling at lower speeds in traffic felt more natural to me.

A confirmation for this was during my subjective testing protocol, I had regularly switched between models and switching between comma Longitudinal control and Rivians ACC and one day I switched to a new model testing out Comma Longitudinal control and it felt different, more responsive and follow distance felt closer (more natural) and thought I found the model that drives better than the other models. I checked and it was on the Rivian ACC. After that I mostly use rivian ACC and have really been happy with the Comma and rivian performance.

I can't wait to see what power Longitudinal control unlocks on the rivian. I feel like they are close at making it perform naturally as a person would.

 

[LivingInKaos]

Overall the Comma does what it does well. After testing back and fourth the two Longitudinal systems I choose to daily the Rivian ACC. Rivians handling at lower speeds in traffic felt more natural to me.

That's the beauty of the device, you have that option. One thing to keep in mind is there really hasn't been much model tuning for Rivians specifically at this point. I personally agree with the follow distance and recovery comments in traffic on the highway - but I tend to run in MADS mode in those situations anyway. Even with Rivian ACC, I would override the accelerator most of the time to close the gaps too because people would just continually tuck in eventually causing me to be going so slow I was a hazard - so, it's not without its faults either. I've been enjoying sunnypilot's Smart Cruise options (not currently available on the 4 while they get the UI configured) which you can't use if not using the comma longitudinal control. Everyone is different, which keeps life interesting

 

[gerrylum]

All comes down to your particular driving personality too (yours, not the Comma's). When I've got OP long active I'm not as concerned with follow distance or people cutting in - I'm happy to just let the car drive while I sit back and relax. As long as it's not doing anything dangerous, I just drive chill.

 

[xinaes]

It should be mounted centered on the mirror "hump" on the mirror housing. That's actually the center of the windshield.

Try different driving models - not different builds. I mention it at the end of the video when going over how to change settings using Sunnylink Dashboard. You can select and install different driving models that have slightly different driving behaviors. You're probably currently using the default driving model.

Thanks, I didn't know of the distinction between build and model! I'll explore a bit more on that. Hopefully there's a model that counters right-bias lane centering.

 

[LivingInKaos]

Thanks, I didn't know of the distinction between build and model! I'll explore a bit more on that. Hopefully there's a model that counters right-bias lane centering.

Like @gerrylum said, models seem to be personal - they react differently for everyone based on circumstances, so one might like Down To Ride V6, another Space Labs 3 or GWMv9, or any one of the many options. So, don't feel like something is wrong if you try one someone suggests and it doesn't do well for you, just try another.

 

[Semibruce]

Bruce here with an R1S in Northern Virginia (Oakton). Comma 3 + The Longitudinal upgrade kit. Happy to participate.

Shout out to @gerrylum, who helped me on Discord back in July with some troubleshooting. Would love to pay it forward. While the install was a bit a challenge, my experience since then has been awesome. It absolutely made a huge difference on some recent road trips from NoVA to upstate NY (1000+ miles) and Memphis, TN (1700 miles). On I40 in Eastern Tennessee, it had no issues with some of the curvy mountain sections at speed. Incredible. I'll also admit that my Comma isn't centered as noted previously, but it' hasn't been an issue.

I've never had a serious issue with the Comma or a scary incident using it.

On a related note, I keep meaning to learn how I can contribute feedback back to the developers.

 

[LivingInKaos]

On a related note, I keep meaning to learn how I can contribute feedback back to the developers.

The best place for feedback is for Comma/Openpilot to use their Discord channel which is linked right from their website.

For Sunnypilot, they were on Discord, but have recently moved to their own forum found here - https://community.sunnypilot.ai/

 

[Tarkus]

I've recalibrated multiple times. I've even done the questionably unsafe thing of slightly rotating the Comma 3X (it's on a windshield mount with a little slack in the joint) to bias the camera facing right in hopes of tricking it to bias steering more left, but after an initial correction towards center, it continues biasing to the right.

Do y'all have it mounted to the right of the rear view mirror (despite standard instructions to the contrary)? I was at one point tempted to try that, but I hate the idea of having to remove the sticky tape residue off the glass and reposition the wiring path yet again if it didn't solve the problem.

Of the multiple builds you mentioned, which would you recommend I try first? In that order?

Aloha XD, I too have had the dreaded too close to white line syndrome & my unauthorized fix is to tap/push the left or right side of the windshield mounted Comma 3X & the "nudge" usually shifts the vehicle a smidgen to the left or right as needed & away from the white line. Too hard a nudge on the 3X & it wants to recalibrate. Mine usually does not reset back to the edge of the road again. I'm on the SP / Staging / Nov 11, w/GWMV9 Model with a few miles of driving with the 3X

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