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Installed Comma 4 Ai and now R1T stuck in Park!

gerrylum

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I experimented with a few things over the past day and noticed a pattern. Whenever I couldn’t shift out of park, the Comma system wasn’t powered on. After performing a hard reboot of the R1T, the Comma would come online and shifting would work again. That led me to suspect the issue might be related to the Comma 4 and the truck booting up at the same time. Furthermore, the reason it would only happen at home is because the vehicle seems to enter sleep mode quickly when parked at home. I decided to revisit the setup and noticed that I was tapped into fuse F34. I switched the power source to F33 and replaced the Lukas 20-amp fuse accordingly. After restarting the vehicle, it immediately shifted out of park without issue. My current assumption is that using F34 may be causing a communication problem within the R1T. Hopefully it is fixed if not I'll continue playing around with it.
That has happened to a few people - the conflict on "wake" issue using the F34 fuse. Strange thing is it only affects some people. Glad F33 is working better for you, though!
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sk8nsanta

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The AXM is where you plugged the harness into.

I'd recommend looking at this document, especially the section starting on page 10 "Installing a Power Source".

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1clodGRssTx-dSPSUrQITq_vqumgWcpSUw83zdcAZR-A/edit?usp=sharing

Try that and then let us know if that helps.
I just ordered the comma 4, but holding off on any additional harnesses at the moment (yes yes, I know I might have to redo the axm connector at some point if I change my mind about picking up the longitudinal and angle based harness) - that said...

My main question is about power when only running the comma 4, and supplied harness. Do you need to run the OBD extension, or will the supplied harness from comma (and running the usb-c up to the actual unit under the rear view mirror) be enough power? Seems like there's some mixed reviews out there, and I'm not able to decipher what's 100% required, and what is kind of optional (perhaps depending on use cases)?

Any insight or suggestions here for those of us running the comma 4 in the "out of the box" way?
 

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I just ordered the comma 4, but holding off on any additional harnesses at the moment (yes yes, I know I might have to redo the axm connector at some point if I change my mind about picking up the longitudinal and angle based harness) - that said...

My main question is about power when only running the comma 4, and supplied harness. Do you need to run the OBD extension, or will the supplied harness from comma (and running the usb-c up to the actual unit under the rear view mirror) be enough power? Seems like there's some mixed reviews out there, and I'm not able to decipher what's 100% required, and what is kind of optional (perhaps depending on use cases)?

Any insight or suggestions here for those of us running the comma 4 in the "out of the box" way?
The comma harness will supply power itself to the comma 4 from the axm connection. No need for other power. However, we've found that in some cases, people were having random vehicle errors and actually disconnecting the axm power from the harness (requires modifying the harness) actually helped resolve those errors. In that case, one would add either the obd power cable provided or a fuse tap. We recommend doing this modification from the start just to make it easy, because to do it later requires either working on very cramped environment or removal of the harness all together to make the modification.
 

sk8nsanta

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The comma harness will supply power itself to the comma 4 from the axm connection. No need for other power. However, we've found that in some cases, people were having random vehicle errors and actually disconnecting the axm power from the harness (requires modifying the harness) actually helped resolve those errors. In that case, one would add either the obd power cable provided or a fuse tap. We recommend doing this modification from the start just to make it easy, because to do it later requires either working on very cramped environment or removal of the harness all together to make the modification.
Thanks for the quick response.

Okay so in theory the out of the box solution should work, however if there are faults or other errors that start to become a nuisance, I should really look into either the fuse tap (seems like F33 is the recommended slot), or go ahead and grab the full dev kit harness for the angle based steering functionality. Either way I'll need to pull the harness again, modify power on whatever harness I use, and then re-install.
 

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DeanB1452

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If you get the Extreme Dev Kit, you won't have to make any modifications to the EDK harness as it already has the AXM power bypassed and utilizes a fuse tap.
 

wavrdn

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Thanks for the quick response.

Okay so in theory the out of the box solution should work, however if there are faults or other errors that start to become a nuisance, I should really look into either the fuse tap (seems like F33 is the recommended slot), or go ahead and grab the full dev kit harness for the angle based steering functionality. Either way I'll need to pull the harness again, modify power on whatever harness I use, and then re-install.
100% plan to do the F33 fuse tap from the start. The OBD connector that I received in March with my Comma 4 did not fit tightly, and needed to be taped in place otherwise it would fall out while driving. Also be careful handling the USB-C cable they include. It has very thin sheathing which is great for flexibility, but very easy to crimp the wires if bent too hard. I had all sorts of vehicle errors due to the cable being crimped right where it comes out of the device and turns 90° to go around the rearview mirror housing.

If you're near Virginia Beach, happy to assist. I've also got spare fuse taps.
 

sk8nsanta

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100% plan to do the F33 fuse tap from the start. The OBD connector that I received in March with my Comma 4 did not fit tightly, and needed to be taped in place otherwise it would fall out while driving. Also be careful handling the USB-C cable they include. It has very thin sheathing which is great for flexibility, but very easy to crimp the wires if bent too hard. I had all sorts of vehicle errors due to the cable being crimped right where it comes out of the device and turns 90° to go around the rearview mirror housing.

If you're near Virginia Beach, happy to assist. I've also got spare fuse taps.
Thanks for the info, DM incoming.
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