Comma harness issues?

[gerrylum]

According to the Amazon retailer, the fuse referenced in your link, the Mini ATM APM, does not fit the 23 Rivian R1T. They claim it requires their Micro 2 tap. ATP, ATM, APM, ATR, BS, WTF. Heck, I dunno.

The one Godfodder referenced is definitely the right one. I've used it to build several fusetaps at this point.

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[Singletracker]

I'll write a section on how to build your own fusetap.

That would be incredible!!!

 

[Singletracker]

The one Godfodder referenced is definitely the right one. I've used it to build several fusetaps at this point.

Hmmm. I guess I’ll use that one then. However, that tap comes with a 15A fuse installed. In those instructions it says to use a 10A fuse for the F33 port. Is that a critical difference?

 

[gerrylum]

Hmmm. I guess I’ll use that one then. However, that tap comes with a 15A fuse installed. In those instructions it says to use a 10A fuse for the F33 port. Is that a critical difference?

You can just reuse the 10amp fuse that's currently in there.

 

[Audiotek]

I have my aftermarket accessories powered by a switch pro controller.

Can you use a switch pro or similar controller to power the comma device?

If I was adding an accessory that needed power from the 12volt battery I would use my switch pro controller.

When not in use I have certainty that it's powered off.

 

[Singletracker]

Gerry - So, in that case there would only be one fuse in the tap, not two?

 

[godfodder0901]

Gerry - So, in that case there would only be one fuse in the tap, not two?

You need two. Get a sample pack at Auto zone of ATM fuses.

 

[gerrylum]

Gerry - So, in that case there would only be one fuse in the tap, not two?

You need two in the fuse tap - one fuse for the Comma (5amp), and one fuse for the module you're tapping.

 

[gerrylum]

I have my aftermarket accessories powered by a switch pro controller.

Can you use a switch pro or similar controller to power the comma device?

If I was adding an accessory that needed power from the 12volt battery I would use my switch pro controller.

When not in use I have certainty that it's powered off.

We have other users who are using a switch pro as well.

 

[Singletracker]

You need two in the fuse tap - one fuse for the Comma (5amp), and one fuse for the module you're tapping.

This is what I thought. If you end up writing that how-to addition for building the fuse tap, may I suggest the inclusion of a photo(s). Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks for all you do

 

[seabirdie]

Did the fuse tap in slot F33 end up solving your problem? I have been experiencing this issue for a couple of months now. I swapped to the OBD power a week ago and pulled the two red wires and connected them together. That worked initially, but seeing this error regularly again. While I was waiting to do the OBD power connection I had the harness connected but not plugged into the comma and never saw this issue, so pretty sure it is comma related at this point. I am going to try reseating all connections while the vehicle sleeps to see if one of the connections made it's way loose.

 

[wavrdn]

Coming here rather than starting a new thread, but having Comma4 issues as well. I seem to have it narrowed down to possibly something with the USB-C or the power port itself on the device. I have the device powered via F33 fuse tap, and the stock Comma harness AXM power wires are de-pinned and crimped together. The device runs fine and am thoroughly pleased with how just stock Openpilot works with the vehicle.

I am occasionally getting the "camera malfunction" message on the Comma4 screen. So far it never happens while in use, only when cruise is not active (and seemingly when cruise HAS been recently active).

Additionally, if I go to slide the device off of the stock windshield mount, it appears that jostling of the USB-C cable immediately causes a plethora of errors on the vehicle. Warnings like, airbag system, speed reduced, AWD only, turtle icon, suspension errors, and the inability to press the brake pedal to get the car out of Park (stiff as a board). If I place the device back onto the mount and let the car sleep for 30 minutes, the errors go away.

Just curious if anyone has seen anything quite like this, I'm wondering if it's possibly just a bad USB-C cable or maybe something related to other users having the camera malfunction error where their units were replaced under warranty. The USB-C cable if bent in order to be plugged in/slid onto the mount, but not to the point where I would think it would cause a wire to be damaged in the loom.

EDIT to add, I was just able to repeat the warnings by simply wiggling the hard part of the USB connector. It feels as if it is a loose connection, or the connector port itself inside the Comma is loose. Going to try a different USB-C and see what happens.

 

[jrmbadger]

Coming here rather than starting a new thread, but having Comma4 issues as well. I seem to have it narrowed down to possibly something with the USB-C or the power port itself on the device. I have the device powered via F33 fuse tap, and the stock Comma harness AXM power wires are de-pinned and crimped together. The device runs fine and am thoroughly pleased with how just stock Openpilot works with the vehicle.

I am occasionally getting the "camera malfunction" message on the Comma4 screen. So far it never happens while in use, only when cruise is not active (and seemingly when cruise HAS been recently active).

Additionally, if I go to slide the device off of the stock windshield mount, it appears that jostling of the USB-C cable immediately causes a plethora of errors on the vehicle. Warnings like, airbag system, speed reduced, AWD only, turtle icon, suspension errors, and the inability to press the brake pedal to get the car out of Park (stiff as a board). If I place the device back onto the mount and let the car sleep for 30 minutes, the errors go away.

Just curious if anyone has seen anything quite like this, I'm wondering if it's possibly just a bad USB-C cable or maybe something related to other users having the camera malfunction error where their units were replaced under warranty. The USB-C cable if bent in order to be plugged in/slid onto the mount, but not to the point where I would think it would cause a wire to be damaged in the loom.

EDIT to add, I was just able to repeat the warnings by simply wiggling the hard part of the USB connector. It feels as if it is a loose connection, or the connector port itself inside the Comma is loose. Going to try a different USB-C and see what happens.

I'd try and push the USB-C in a bit more too, perhaps its just a bit of a sticky port. Definitely try a new USB-C. Otherwise it seems like it might be a defective comma unit rather than a harness issue.

Finally, you didn't mention whether you have the longitudinal harness or not. If you do, make sure you have the right USB-C cable connected to each port. I know they are different and not connecting the right USB C to the right port can cause issues.

 

[wavrdn]

I'd try and push the USB-C in a bit more too, perhaps its just a bit of a sticky port. Definitely try a new USB-C. Otherwise it seems like it might be a defective comma unit rather than a harness issue.

Finally, you didn't mention whether you have the longitudinal harness or not. If you do, make sure you have the right USB-C cable connected to each port. I know they are different and not connecting the right USB C to the right port can cause issues.

Stock comma harness, and I've currently got a spare cable plugged into it to try. Upon removing the Comma-provided USB-C cord though, I got the errors once more. The new spare cord I plugged/unplugged multiple times without any fuss whatsoever so...hopefully just a wonky cable. Will see how it goes for the next few days, and get a replacement cord of the right length that I can hide back in the headliner/A-pillar trim.

EDIT:
Was in fact a bad USB-C cable. It was kinked on one end, possibly from when I went to slide the device off of the mount and it was bent against the rearview mirror/stock camera housing. Inferior quality cable IMO, just like the OBD cable they provided. Have been running with no issue with the fuse tap and new USB-C data cable.

 

[seabirdie]

Did the fuse tap in slot F33 end up solving your problem? I have been experiencing this issue for a couple of months now. I swapped to the OBD power a week ago and pulled the two red wires and connected them together. That worked initially, but seeing this error regularly again. While I was waiting to do the OBD power connection I had the harness connected but not plugged into the comma and never saw this issue, so pretty sure it is comma related at this point. I am going to try reseating all connections while the vehicle sleeps to see if one of the connections made it's way loose.

For anyone that comes across this thread, I ended up having the same root cause. I removed the 2 ft USB-C extension cable with the 90 degree connector on the end that came with my comma and my comma is working as expected again. Looking at the cable, it looks like I crimped down on it with the rearview mirror housing and must have compromised the cable. It took a few months to become problematic.

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