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R1S pulls hard to the right on acceleration. SC says this is normal...thoughts?

Time2Roll

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Dual motor sounds like part of the suspension is loose on one side.
Something is shifting forward and changing the steering angle.

Not even close to normal.

Torque steer was an issue back in the 1980s when vehicles were going front wheel drive with unequal half shafts and has been mostly fixed. Besides Rivian has equal length half shafts.
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mikehmb

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My name is Mike, and I have a (car) problem
In the automotive world, it's a well known "phenomenon" that's called Torque Steer. You can feel it in some front wheel drive vehicles. I experienced driving a friend's Saab 9-3 convertible years ago. Whether it's normal or not is debatable because there were/are plenty of production cars that ship with "normal" torque steer (Link)

As far as Rivian goes, I've felt it slightly and randomly in my R1S on infrequent full launches. In my R1S I believe it is due to road and tire variables, not a vehicle fault.
^ This.

Also, it's much more pronounced in cars with higher power:weight ratio. My old GTI would yank side to side like a wild animal under hard acceleration, and it was hilarious.

FWIW my '26 T (dual motor perf) will pull to one side if I accelerate just enough to not engage the rear motors. Once they kick in, the effects are drastically reduced.

This could be controlled in software, so we'll see what they come up with longer-term.
 

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Dual motor sounds like part of the suspension is loose on one side.
Something is shifting forward and changing the steering angle.

Not even close to normal.

Torque steer was an issue back in the 1980s when vehicles were going front wheel drive with unequal half shafts and has been mostly fixed. Besides Rivian has equal length half shafts.
I'd only consider torque steer "solved" on some of the better FWD platforms like the Civic Type R. A lot of FWD vehicles still have it - and even some with AWD.

I was driving a Pontiac G6 GTP as a rental one time and the car about put me into a wall when I stabbed the throttle to merge on a short ramp. I also got a fair amount of torque steer even on my Model S with equal half shaft lengths if the wheel was not perfectly straight or the pavement wasn't equally grippy for both front tires.

I'm not sure if OP is experiencing a normal amount of torque steer, but the dual motor trucks are not free of it.
 

Rade

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Interesting topic. When my R1T was in for service, the SC lent me launch edition R1S. I noticed on acceleration, that it pulled hard. I just chocked it up to the age (4yo), mileage (30k+) and probably abusive use as a demo vehicle.
 

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Jdcorbitt3

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Try conserve mode and watch not to accelerate hard enough to engage the rear motors. If it still pulls, it is the front. If it stops pulling, it is the rear.
A more worn tire on the left will cause a pull to the right due to the smaller radius on the left. Also a difference in tire pressure will cause it to pull.
I have a tri and two quads. None of them pull to a side.
 

2kwik4u

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Personal opinion.......the "green zone" is still a bad alignment. "Within spec" is not "to spec". That means that while, lets say the spec for toe-in is 0.1deg +/- 0.2 deg. It can be "in spec" at 0.3deg or at -0.1 deg. What you want is someone that will take the time to adjust it until it's not just within the "green zone", but is actually set TO the specification.

My experience is that the Rivian is very sensitive to alignment issues. My Audis were the same way. My GM's and Nissans didn't seem to care.

Take it somewhere else for an alignment "to spec". I've rarely had regular tire places or even dealerships do this well. Finding a local performance shop will get better results. You find techs that are more passionate about getting it right (they're often enthusiasts themselves), and will spend the extra few minutes it takes to set it up properly. They usually have a road force balancing machine as well, and that's also worth the cash IMO.

Also, another note.......ask them to drive another vehicle that does the same thing. If another vehicle in the shop doesn't do it, then it's not normal. I just got mine back from service yesterday and was asking the tech about the suspension rattling. He said "Man, they all do this". So I asked if we could drive any others in the bay to confirm. Sure enough a G2 tri R1S, a G1 quad R1S, and my G1 dual R1T all sound like a damn banana wagon over sharp edge bumps. It's not just mine, they all do it. Your alignment issue should be similar if it is truly "normal".
 

impulsoren

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If you are running into a roadblock because the Rivian SC is familiar with you and wants to be done, as stated above, get a 3rd party opinion. Not every shop has the equipment to align a Rivian. Find the shop that does ADAS calibration for the local Rivian authorized body shop after they are done repairing body panels (there might not be one if the Rivian SC is close by you might have to find the shop in another town without a Rivian SC).
The shop I went to said they align and then test drive at least 2 rivians each week and were super knowledgeable and helpful, providing and explaining alignment readout sheets for every suspension height setting after aligning my vehicle, something I doubt a Rivian SC would do.
 

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Our 2023 R1T, Dual Performance has ALWAYS experienced some level of torque steer! It can be reduced with alignment, but it is always there under heavy acceleration., with All-Purpose mode.
All-purpose mode is initially basically front wheel drive. Rivian SC has confirmed this twice.
 

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Interesting topic. When my R1T was in for service, the SC lent me launch edition R1S. I noticed on acceleration, that it pulled hard. I just chocked it up to the age (4yo), mileage (30k+) and probably abusive use as a demo vehicle.
Same here. I was shocked at how poorly the SUV handles compared to the truck. Particularly on hard acceleration. Your experience may indeed be normal. I called it “squirrelly” and felt like I was constantly correcting it. Both were quads, one early and one brand new G2 with low miles.
 

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^ This.

Also, it's much more pronounced in cars with higher power:weight ratio. My old GTI would yank side to side like a wild animal under hard acceleration, and it was hilarious.

FWIW my '26 T (dual motor perf) will pull to one side if I accelerate just enough to not engage the rear motors. Once they kick in, the effects are drastically reduced.

This could be controlled in software, so we'll see what they come up with longer-term.
No, NOT "this" ABSOLUTELY not "this."

Sorry guys, but Torque steer is NOT an EV reality. I started typing a ton of stuff out, but it's going to turn into a long-ass diatribe and 'debate' I'm not looking to have, so I totally took the easy way out, so here's some GPT goodness for you (follows; but fact-checked by me, an Engineer):


Torque Steer: What It Actually Is

Traditional torque steer is almost exclusively a front-wheel-drive (FWD) problem caused by unequal forces in the front axle/differential geometry.


The major contributors in ICE FWD cars:

1. Unequal half-shaft lengths

  • Different shaft lengths → different torsional spring rates → one wheel “winds up” faster → car pulls to one side.
2. Transverse engine layout & transmission weight offset

  • Heavy transaxle sitting off-center adds compliance asymmetry.
3. Open differential behavior

  • An open diff splits torque based on resistance, not equally.
  • Slight differences in friction/alignment → uneven torque → steering pull.
4. Steering geometry, caster trail, scrub radius

  • FWD cars typically have a nonzero scrub radius, so wheel torque = steering input torque.

This is why when you hammer a FWD Civic or GTI, the wheel tries to dislocate your shoulder.


Do EVs Have Torque Steer?
Pure BEVs with individual motors on each axle or each wheel?

99% of the time? No.
And Rivian specifically? Absolutely not in the traditional sense.


Here’s why:

1. Rivian uses independent motors front & rear

Each front wheel has its own motor in the quad-motor trim, or in the dual-motor, power is delivered through a single reduction gearbox and a proper differential mounted in the center, not offset like an ICE transaxle.


Zero-torque-steer geometries are deliberate in EV design:


  • Equal half shaft lengths
  • Symmetrical suspension geometry
  • Symmetric weight distribution
  • No transverse engine/transmission offsetting anything

In short: EV front ends are designed to avoid the exact issues that plague FWD ICE cars.

2. Electric torque distribution is software-controlled

An EV with dual motors doesn’t rely on a passive open differential at all.
It’s all torque-vectoring logic. Electric motors respond instantly, so asymmetries are corrected… instantly.

3. Scrub radius on most EVs is engineered near zero

Manufacturers want that stable “planted” EV feel. That geometry also eliminates torque steer.


So where can an EV show something that feels like torque steer?

There are edge cases — but they aren’t “torque steer” in the classic sense.

1. Road crown or ruts

High torque + sensitive electric power steering can amplify a pull that was already there.

2. Alignment issues

This is the big one for Rivians.


  • Toe difference
  • Camber split
  • Caster imbalance

These absolutely manifest as:


  • Car drifting under throttle
  • Car pulling harder as torque increases
  • Steering wheel slightly off-center
  • Pull on regen

And people mistake this for “torque steer,” but it is 100% alignment geometry.

3. Tire pressure differences

EVs are heavy; pressure differences create exaggerated handling differences.

4. Uneven tire wear or mismatched tread depth

Again, the EV weight makes this more pronounced.

5. In rare cases: software torque-vectoring bugs

There have been cases on EV forums (Tesla, Polestar) where:


  • Traction control
  • Motor torque allocation
  • Stability program calibration

…caused a pull under heavy throttle, but that’s more of a torque distribution imbalance, not classical torque steer.


Specifically for Rivian
Quad Motor:

Each wheel has its own motor → zero torque steer possible.


If it drifts under throttle?
→ Misalignment
→ Tire issue
→ Steering rack calibration

Dual Motor:

Still extremely unlikely. The front unit uses:


  • Equal-length shafts
  • Symmetrical mount
  • Central gearbox

If there were true torque steer, Rivian would be guilty of intentionally recreating 1990s Honda engineering. They are not.


Every case I’ve seen reported on the forums (and Rivian tech bulletins) comes down to:


  • Toe imbalance
  • Subframe shift
  • Bushing preload
  • Steering rack centering
  • Tire pressures
  • Road texture/camber

Your Conclusion (correctly stated):

An “open differential EV” should not inherently produce torque steer. If someone is feeling a pull in a Rivian, it is more likely an alignment or mechanical issue than a drivetrain/powertrain design flaw.
That is accurate mechanical reasoning.


If you post that on the forum, don’t be surprised if half the replies are “well actually” from people who think FWD physics applies to a 7,000 lb quad-motor skateboard.
 

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I used AI to decompress and summarize that AI drivel. Is your point that the thing we experience is not called torque steer, but should be called something else? Or that we didn't actually experience anything at all and we're on hallucinogens?
 

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Sorry guys, but Torque steer is NOT an EV reality. I started typing a ton of stuff out, but it's going to
Who claimed or implied this was an "EV" thing? You asked AI to disprove something that no one was was claiming.
 

Jonger1150

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I had an issue with pulling to the right with the 21 inch Pirellis no matter what we did.

Got 21 inch Hankook tires and it drives straight as an arrow.
 

Bill Tolar

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Has anyone else had similar issues or been told that this is normal?

It is not normal, and I was never told it was, but it took going to three different service centers to get it fixed.
Atlanta, no help at all after they did alignment, Tampa, slight improvement, but still pulled to the right after alignment.
Orlando, perfect no pulling at all after alignment and rotating tires.
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