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SOS - R1T bricked during aftermarket horn install (horn not at fault)

Zoidz

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Anyone know what a "BIB" is? SC texted to say they have to order one (takes a week) and described it as a "secondary battery for the 12v". I asked if they're also going to replace the 12v (since I know it's dead dead) and they said "yes the 12v is the BIB". Huh?

Anyways, I'm trying not to be too pushy and let them do their work since they said it will be covered under warranty, at least for now. I can't help but think that all it needs is a new 12v, since that did the trick for the 2 others with this same issue and my truck seemed totally normal once the tow truck jump box was hooked up.
BIB in a generic sense stands for "Battery Interface Box". and is used to connect a battery to a load or charger. I reserve the right to be wrong, but in this context I think it would be a component that connects the RIvian 12 volt battery to the HV battery, so that the HV battery can charge the 12 volt battery. Again, I reserve the right to be wrong, lol.

In this context (which might be wrong) it's a bit confusing that they told you "the 12 volt battery is the BIB"....?
 
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Zoidz

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Thanks. Funny though, in my spring ‘23 build, that post isn’t hot. Measures 0 volts to ground. (Other posts measure ~12V). Referring to the black post in the center of this image.

IMG_6950.jpeg
What you are looking at is a battery power distribution block that mounts on top of the battery. I'm pretty sure the bolt stud is isolated from any direct power. The black square under the wire/terminal is a fuse and sometimes referred to as a prefuse. The bolt is used to mechanically secure the prefuse to the block assembly. I think you are measuring voltage on the bolt because it is connected to power through the fuse. If there is no fuse, you won't measure any voltage.

"The SMZ stud mount fuse holder allows you to mount fusing directly to a M8 or M10 stud on applications such as batteries, alternators, battery switches or electrical relays. The insulated bolt on the busbar eliminates the traditional need for nylon nuts used on legacy CF8 fuses."
Rivian R1T R1S SOS - R1T bricked during aftermarket horn install (horn not at fault) 1718420649421-ok
 

usulio

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Got it, thanks. Strange that mine doesn't have a fuse on that middle top post, but the OP post in their images does have a fuse there.
 
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freshpow

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Got it, thanks. Strange that mine doesn't have a fuse on that middle top post, but the OP post in their images does have a fuse there.
Agreed - I think mine was delivered shortly after they made the switch to a single battery, if that counts for anything. Anyways was told this center slot was originally meant for the winch but then disappeared once they nixed that. I believe RealWheels will be including that fuse moving forward to switch the install to that post, out of an abundance of caution.
 

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Agreed - I think mine was delivered shortly after they made the switch to a single battery, if that counts for anything. Anyways was told this center slot was originally meant for the winch but then disappeared once they nixed that. I believe RealWheels will be including that fuse moving forward to switch the install to that post, out of an abundance of caution.
Interesting. My delivery was probably just a few months later. FWIW no extra phantom drain or 12V issues after a couple days (used the other posts to connect horn and lights).
 
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freshpow

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Happy update - got my truck back from service yesterday and they covered the 12v and "bib" replacement under warranty because they couldn't say for certain that the horn install caused the issue. Lesson learned - keep my big mouth shut about aftermarket parts in the future :)

Reinstalled the horn right away using that empty center post (following the new instructions) and everything is working perfectly and the horn sounds great. RealWheels provided great customer support throughout and I would highly recommend to anyone who might be on the fence - it's an incredibly simple install.

Reflecting back, my service experience was great as soon as I was able to speak directly to my local SC. Even though it was frustrating at times to message through the app, they were very communicative and kept me in the loop as things changed. I was also set up with a loaner once my truck got towed into the SC and that made a big difference.

The frustrating and IMO broken part of this process was the communication with the main service hotline. While they were friendly people seemingly trying to do their best, it's beyond me that it took speaking with 7 different people (over the course of a few days) to finally get directly connected with my local SC. There was also zero accountability...each rep would swear up and down that they would follow up on my case and give me a call back by xx time and that never happened. That experience and the one rep who told me that service wouldn't even touch my truck because of the aftermarket install show how inept the main service line is.
 

onthebrake

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2.5 VDC is way too low. I’ve never even seen a 12v battery that low. It’s toast, replace the battery and you might get out of this alive.
 

EVTrukHog

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Happy update - got my truck back from service yesterday and they covered the 12v and "bib" replacement under warranty because they couldn't say for certain that the horn install caused the issue. Lesson learned - keep my big mouth shut about aftermarket parts in the future :)

Reinstalled the horn right away using that empty center post (following the new instructions) and everything is working perfectly and the horn sounds great. RealWheels provided great customer support throughout and I would highly recommend to anyone who might be on the fence - it's an incredibly simple install.

Reflecting back, my service experience was great as soon as I was able to speak directly to my local SC. Even though it was frustrating at times to message through the app, they were very communicative and kept me in the loop as things changed. I was also set up with a loaner once my truck got towed into the SC and that made a big difference.

The frustrating and IMO broken part of this process was the communication with the main service hotline. While they were friendly people seemingly trying to do their best, it's beyond me that it took speaking with 7 different people (over the course of a few days) to finally get directly connected with my local SC. There was also zero accountability...each rep would swear up and down that they would follow up on my case and give me a call back by xx time and that never happened. That experience and the one rep who told me that service wouldn't even touch my truck because of the aftermarket install show how inept the main service line is.
Thanks for the final update and congrats on the positive outcome... I appreciate you sharing your experience and keeping a positive attitude despite the challenges. I've also experienced your frustration when the main customer service rep will not (or cannot) connect you directly to the Service Center... often, they can't reach the Service Center themselves! Last time I was at one of my area service centers, I was able to get the cell phone number of the local SC representative... it was SO much easier to be able to call them direct for status check rather than going through a random representative through the 1-800 number or chat.

With the departure of the majority of the "Guides", I hope this is a good opportunity for Rivian to re-analyze their customer interactions with regards to Service - and make it more efficient for themselves and a better experience for their customers.
 

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Battery interface box, so technically no, not the battery. It's what replaced the second battery in the newer builds, some of us still have two batteries.

1000011091.gif


https://manapower.io/

Trivial, but I just got word from a connection on the inside that BIB actually stands for Battery Isolation Box. Its purpose is to maintain 12V power to accessories in the aftermath of a crash. And during development, Rivian had to crash a R1 for validation.
 
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freshpow

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Welp, so much for the happy ending. Truck bricked again today after about a week of getting it back from service. It's already on its way to the SC - much smoother going this time with the service hotline and they're already setting me up with a rental/maybe a loaner.

Only frustrating part is that the yellow battery light on the dash had appeared a couple days after getting it back from service and I let them know immediately via chat in the app and they just told me to open a new ticket, which wasn't going to get addressed until August. It drove just fine for the last week until this morning when I couldn't get it into drive and all the warning lights appeared again. Passenger side of the truck completely died but the screens were still working and I could operate the frunk. After a couple more hours everything went dark and I had it towed. :(
 

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If they won't end up covering the new battery under warranty, I'll probably purchase one of the Ohmmu batteries since it would be a lot cheaper and seems like a better battery.

Obviously, you won’t have to do that now since they are covering the repair under warranty, but if you ever do consider doing that in the future it would be good to think carefully about it or even get Rivian’s thoughts on it first.

Adding a simple horn is one thing (doesn’t really affect the design), but using a different type replacement battery is actually changing an integral part of their system design. IF that resulted in any problems it is highly unlikely warranty would cover it.
 

Hebdog

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Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act

The installation of an accessory part does not invalidate the warranty. Rivian still must look at the issue and ONLY if it is determined that the part in question caused the problem can they charge for you for any repairs...it's my understanding Rivian would have prove the accessory caused the issue.
This is false info. If you would be so kind as to post where it states what you say in the act.
 
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freshpow

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This is false info. If you would be so kind as to post where it states what you say in the act.
How is it false info? Can be verified with a quick Google search…I don’t have time to read through the legalese but you can if you’d like. This was also my experience as they diagnosed the issue but couldn’t determine any fault so covered it under warranty.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act clearly stipulates that warranties cannot be voided merely due to the use of aftermarket parts or services. Manufacturers are required to prove that the non-original part or service was the direct cause of the defect to deny warranty claims.

https://connlawpc.com/blog/magnuson...ranties cannot,defect to deny warranty claims.
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