SOS - R1T bricked during aftermarket horn install (horn not at fault)

[freshpow]

After a few near misses where the other driver didn't even hear my horn, I took it upon myself to install an aftermarket horn for safety reasons. My truck bricked during installation, which was very basic and only involved hooking a lead onto the primary 12v battery. Everything went fine initially and the new horn worked (sounded great) but when I got in shortly after to go for a drive the brake pedal wouldn't budge and the driver's screen lit up like a christmas tree with a whole bunch of error codes (see photo). Soft and hard resets did not resolve. Both screens died completely after about 15 min. Immediately called the service line and told them what happened - I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed so I regrettably divulged all that info about the aftermarket horn.

Fast forward to 3 full days later (2 business days), I've spoken with 6 different people on the main service line and none of them can get a response from the service center or get the service center to contact me as to whether I should have it towed to the SC or if mobile service can take care of it. During my latest call, they said something to the effect of "because of the aftermarket part, the SC won't even touch the repair, but you could go to a Rivian Collision Center".

Seeking advice because I have no knowledge or expertise in this area. I'm of the opinion that there was likely something wrong with my 12v system if this horn, which many others have installed without issue, was capable of bricking the truck just by hooking up to the 12v. As I understand it, to refuse warranty coverage they would need to be able to prove that my aftermarket install is the source of failure here. Which would mean that they need to at the very least perform a diagnostic to figure that out/prove that. If I end up having to cover the 12v replacement out of pocket, fine. Not ideal, but whatever I just want my truck up and running again.

What advice do you have / what would you do if you were me?

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[SoCal Rob]

After a few near misses where the other driver didn't even hear my horn, I took it upon myself to install an aftermarket horn for safety reasons. My truck bricked during installation, which was very basic and only involved hooking a lead onto the primary 12v battery. Everything went fine initially and the new horn worked (sounded great) but when I got in shortly after to go for a drive the brake pedal wouldn't budge and the driver's screen lit up like a christmas tree with a whole bunch of error codes (see photo). Soft and hard resets did not resolve. Both screens died completely after about 15 min. Immediately called the service line and told them what happened - I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed so I regrettably divulged all that info about the aftermarket horn.

Fast forward to 3 full days later (2 business days), I've spoken with 6 different people on the main service line and none of them can get a response from the service center or get the service center to contact me as to whether I should have it towed to the SC or if mobile service can take care of it. During my latest call, they said something to the effect of "because of the aftermarket part, the SC won't even touch the repair, but you could go to a Rivian Collision Center".

Seeking advice because I have no knowledge or expertise in this area. I'm of the opinion that there was likely something wrong with my 12v system if this horn, which many others have installed without issue, was capable of bricking the truck just by hooking up to the 12v. As I understand it, to refuse warranty coverage they would need to be able to prove that my aftermarket install is the source of failure here. Which would mean that they need to at the very least perform a diagnostic to figure that out/prove that. If I end up having to cover the 12v replacement out of pocket, fine. Not ideal, but whatever I just want my truck up and running again.

What advice do you have / what would you do if you were me?

First, I’m sorry this happened to you! It’s especially frustrating since most of us wouldn’t be modifying the vehicle if Rivian hadn’t eliminated one of the two horns.

You probably did this installation the right way* where you’re powering the new horn directly from the 12V and it’s switched by a relay triggered by the factory horn. Assuming you didn’t cut into the wiring and used a Y connector, it may be best to remove everything that you’ve added and then ask Rivian to work on it since it has been restored to factory-standard.

It would be nice if Rivian sold a horn upgrade kit which is approved by them.

*edit: I did this the less-than-ideal way where I used a Y splitter and powered both original and new horns from the existing feed, assuming that it was probably setup this way for the factory 2-horn setup. It meant I didn’t have to mess with the 12V battery terminals at all.

 

[Mathme]

Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act

The installation of an accessory part does not invalidate the warranty. Rivian still must look at the issue and ONLY if it is determined that the part in question caused the problem can they charge for you for any repairs...it's my understanding Rivian would have prove the accessory caused the issue.

 

[Mathme]

Also try disconnecting the horn and see if the problem goes away...

 

[freshpow]

First, I’m sorry this happened to you! It’s especially frustrating since most of us wouldn’t be modifying the vehicle if Rivian hadn’t eliminated one of the two horns.

You probably did this installation the right way* where you’re powering the new horn directly from the 12V and it’s switched by a relay triggered by the factory horn. Assuming you didn’t cut into the wiring and used a Y connector, it may be best to remove everything that you’ve added and then ask Rivian to work on it since it has been restored to factory-standard.

It would be nice if Rivian sold a horn upgrade kit which is approved by them.

*edit: I did this the less-than-ideal way where I used a Y splitter and powered both original and new horns from the existing feed, assuming that it was probably setup this way for the factory 2-horn setup. It meant I didn’t have to mess with the 12V battery terminals at all.

Thanks for the reply. Yes I believe I did do it the "right" way, per your description. I was able to access the manual frunk release and already uninstalled everything...really wishing I hadn't told them about the aftermarket part initially.

Since Rivian doesn't seem too concerned about my plight and it could be many days/weeks before this gets resolved, do you think I need to be worried at all about the HV battery? It was ~85% when everything shut down. I tried jumping it with another vehicle from the rear leads right after it happened, but gave up after ~45 minutes didn't give me enough juice to unlock or do anything.

 

[freshpow]

Also try disconnecting the horn and see if the problem goes away...

Thanks. Already disconnected everything but the truck is completely dead and unresponsive so no way to test that.

 

[TigerWuxia]

could it because your 12v battery is dead?

 

[jjswan33]

Thanks for the reply. Yes I believe I did do it the "right" way, per your description. I was able to access the manual frunk release and already uninstalled everything...really wishing I hadn't told them about the aftermarket part initially.

If you have access to the front trunk can you test the battery voltage, maybe even put a 12v battery charger on it if it is in fact low? Might help debug your issue, seems odd that the 12v battery would die with what you did but if some wires accidentally got crossed you might have blown a fuse/relay of some kind.

 

[SANZC02]

Thanks. Already disconnected everything but the truck is completely dead and unresponsive so no way to test that.

Not sure if you have 1 or 2 batteries, here is a video replacing the battery on a single battery system. Watch the end of it for trouble shooting.

It should resolve your issue, there is one for dual batteries as well.

 

[RivianRunner]

After a few near misses where the other driver didn't even hear my horn, I took it upon myself to install an aftermarket horn for safety reasons.

Sorry about your experience. I don't know enough to comment on your plight.

That said, it's not ringing true to me that safety reasons drove the horn upgrade. Don't get me wrong, I do understand that you justified the upgrade with safety to yourself, but in 45 years of driving and riding motorcycles on public roads I can't say my horn has ever saved my bacon. Oh, yes, I've honked it, not frequently, but many times over the years. But it was always to tell another driver they did something bad, or to tell them to get out of my way so I could get through, never to save my bacon.

As a motorcyclist, I know not to trust other drivers, and that includes not honking my horn to prevent an accident. I take evasive action, two wheels or four, it doesn't matter. I'm the only one that can save my bacon. Because, by the time I see a problem developing, and honked my horn, and the sound travelled the distance to the other vehicle, they heard it and responded, well, I would have been better off just taking evasive action to begin with! In this situation I might do both, honk and take evasive action, but the honking is just to tell them they messed up, it's not going to help me save my bacon.

 

[SoCal Rob]

Thanks for the reply. Yes I believe I did do it the "right" way, per your description. I was able to access the manual frunk release and already uninstalled everything...really wishing I hadn't told them about the aftermarket part initially.

Since Rivian doesn't seem too concerned about my plight and it could be many days/weeks before this gets resolved, do you think I need to be worried at all about the HV battery? It was ~85% when everything shut down. I tried jumping it with another vehicle from the rear leads right after it happened, but gave up after ~45 minutes didn't give me enough juice to unlock or do anything.

I’d think your HV battery should be fine for at least a couple months if my 1% per day ?‍ loss is any indication. I’d take the advice given by @jjswan33 amd @SANZC02 since you were able to access the frunk successfully via the manual cable. It may be that a high-powered (car battery) jump directly to the main battery terminals via traditional jumper cables could help more than trying to charge via the small leads under the hitch receiver cover.

 

[SoCal Rob]

Sorry about your experience. I don't know enough to comment on your plight.

That said, it's not ringing true to me that safety reasons drove the horn upgrade. Don't get me wrong, I do understand that you justified the upgrade with safety to yourself, but in 45 years of driving and riding motorcycles on public roads I can't say my horn has ever saved my bacon. Oh, yes, I've honked it, not frequently, but many times over the years. But it was always to tell another driver they did something bad, or to tell them to get out of my way so I could get through, never to save my bacon.

As a motorcyclist, I know not to trust other drivers, and that includes not honking my horn to prevent an accident. I take evasive action, two wheels or four, it doesn't matter. I'm the only one that can save my bacon. Because, by the time I see a problem developing, and honked my horn, and the sound travelled the distance to the other vehicle, they heard it and responded, well, I would have been better off just taking evasive action to begin with! In this situation I might do both, honk and take evasive action, but the honking is just to tell them they messed up, it's not going to help me save my bacon.

It’s true, and here’s what I wrote about it in the past: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/eunuchs-choir-rivian-horn.23717/post-474760

I’m not surprised to see that you’d take the opportunity to attempt to derail a thread, despite the fact that someone is seeking assistance. Please, let’s keep this on-topic to help @freshpow.

 

[freshpow]

If you have access to the front trunk can you test the battery voltage, maybe even put a 12v battery charger on it if it is in fact low? Might help debug your issue, seems odd that the 12v battery would die with what you did but if some wires accidentally got crossed you might have blown a fuse/relay of some kind.

Thanks for the advice. I just measured the primary battery with a multimeter and was getting ~2.5v across it. I thought I had two batteries but after further inspection it's just the one (late 3/23 build). I don't have a 12v battery charger but could try hooking up my other vehicle. Rivian support strongly advised against hooking up directly to the battery and said to follow the user manual (using the rear leads only). If I can successfully gain access to the vehicle after charging it for awhile, is that going to get me anything? Won't the 12v just die again and they'll have to replace it anyways?

 

[SoCal Rob]

Thanks for the advice. I just measured the primary battery with a multimeter and was getting ~2.5v across it. I thought I had two batteries but after further inspection it's just the one (late 3/23 build). I don't have a 12v battery charger but could try hooking up my other vehicle. Rivian support strongly advised against hooking up directly to the battery and said to follow the user manual (using the rear leads only). If I can successfully gain access to the vehicle after charging it for awhile, is that going to get me anything? Won't the 12v just die again and they'll have to replace it anyways?

Even deep-cycle batteries have their limits and 2.5V makes me think the 12V battery needs to be replaced. You may be able gain access to the vehicle, but I don’t think that battery is coming back. Hopefully someone with more than just experience and observation like I have can provide solid data.

 

[jjswan33]

Thanks for the advice. I just measured the primary battery with a multimeter and was getting ~2.5v across it. I thought I had two batteries but after further inspection it's just the one (late 3/23 build). I don't have a 12v battery charger but could try hooking up my other vehicle. Rivian support strongly advised against hooking up directly to the battery and said to follow the user manual (using the rear leads only). If I can successfully gain access to the vehicle after charging it for awhile, is that going to get me anything? Won't the 12v just die again and they'll have to replace it anyways?

Yeah if that 2.5v number is accurate then your battery is probably fried, anything below 10.8V is questionable in my experience.

You could attempt to replace the battery on your own, at least a few aftermarket options.

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