SOS - R1T bricked during aftermarket horn install (horn not at fault)

[freshpow]

Yeah if that 2.5v number is accurate then your battery is probably fried, anything below 10.8V is questionable in my experience.

You could attempt to replace the battery on your own, at least a few aftermarket options.

Probably a stupid question but I was getting ~2.5v at each post on the battery - do we add them up or it just is what it is?

I'm inclined to wait for service and see how that process goes. If they try to stick me with a $1k+ bill, maybe I'll explore the aftermarket options.

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[SoCal Rob]

Probably a stupid question but I was getting ~2.5v at each post on the battery - do we add them up or it just is what it is?

I'm inclined to wait for service and see how that process goes. If they try to stick me with a $1k+ bill, maybe I'll explore the aftermarket options.

You’d need to connect the red lead from a voltmeter to the + post of a battery and the black lead to the - post of the same battery. The figure on the meter is the voltage being produced by that battery. If both batteries (or battery and capacitor) show the same value then it probably just means they’re connected in parallel so the number you’re getting on the voltmeter is the total voltage.

 

[freshpow]

You’d need to connect the red lead from a voltmeter to the + post of a battery and the black lead to the - post of the same battery. The figure on the meter is the voltage being produced by that battery. If both batteries (or battery and capacitor) show the same value then it probably just means they’re connected in parallel so the number you’re getting on the voltmeter is the total voltage.

Makes sense. Was unsure since the battery has 5+ posts (see photos)

 

[Mathme]

Rivian is known for having poor batteries. If one/both are dead this soon after delivery, then Rivian should cover the costs of this replacement under warranty.

 

[opnwide]

I assign blame here for making Rivian less horny and don’t blame OP one iota.

 

[Hereforthesnacks]

If it’s legit 2.5V, then it’s toast. Seems like seeing if a replacement helps is worth it?

 

[Killer95Stang]

Thanks for the advice. I just measured the primary battery with a multimeter and was getting ~2.5v across it. I thought I had two batteries but after further inspection it's just the one (late 3/23 build). I don't have a 12v battery charger but could try hooking up my other vehicle. Rivian support strongly advised against hooking up directly to the battery and said to follow the user manual (using the rear leads only). If I can successfully gain access to the vehicle after charging it for awhile, is that going to get me anything? Won't the 12v just die again and they'll have to replace it anyways?

Weird... our R1S is a late March 2023 build and we still have 2 batteries.

 

[Cte515]

This sucks man, I did an aftermarket horn upgrade and now worried. Which one did you install?

 

[Polar]

Makes sense. Was unsure since the battery has 5+ posts (see photos)

Check the passenger side power distribution unit as well. The covered Red Box to the left of the one you’re testing. What you’re testing there is the drivers side power distribution unit/block.

 

[Riviot]

Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act

The installation of an accessory part does not invalidate the warranty. Rivian still must look at the issue and ONLY if it is determined that the part in question caused the problem can they charge for you for any repairs...it's my understanding Rivian would have prove the accessory caused the issue.

OP, cancel your ticket and submit a new one. Don't mention the aftermarket horn in the new one, make sure all evidence is removed from the vehicle. This is an easy mobile service to replace the battery.

 

[Diggie]

Following. Was planning to install the realwheelsEV one soon but will wait for OP’s answer / results.

 

[GatorRiv]

I've had 12v battery failures about a week apart. March 2023 build w one battery. Rivian swore up and down both batteries were just bad batches (not totally buying that).

I read all the 12v threads although battery principles are a bit of a mystery to me. Does feel like March 2023 give or take seems to be correlated to high incidence of 12v issues. IE the first vehicles when the switched to single battery.

After the 12v problems I did install the Real wheels EV horn about a month later. Was a fun little install and I enjoyed seeing some of the guts under the funk. 6 weeks since and no problems. Seems like consensus on forum was that the horn wouldn't sap battery. Hope that logic holds true.

So many Rivians have 12v bricked that horn install may just be coincidence? OPs subject line should at least have a question mark in it. If his meter is right that battery was due to fail.

 

[Kuro-Rivian]

So many Rivians have 12v bricked that horn install may just be coincidence?

Agree. 12v battery failure for sure but just bad luck on timing and not related to horn install.

To the OP. Try to hook a charger up directly to batter(ies). Not via the rear bumper. Most new chargers will recognize the low voltage and go into a "desulfate" routine to rejuvenate the battery. When I had my 12v failure a year ago, I was able to bring the truck back to life by charging the 12v. You still need a 12v battery replacement but It may buy you time for service to get to it (or at least redirect the conversation away from the horn).

Don't be deterred and power through! It'll get fixed.

 

[Trandall]

Check the passenger side power distribution unit as well. The covered Red Box to the left of the one you’re testing. What you’re testing there is the drivers side power distribution unit/block.

@freshpow, I second the above. Good luck. At a minimum Rivian should be willing to perform the service request even if they feel it was user error. I also agree with @SoCal Rob probably best to remove your aftermarket install for Rivian service.
On a side note this makes me very apprehensive to ever install a non OEM 12V battery.

 

[freshpow]

Agree. 12v battery failure for sure but just bad luck on timing and not related to horn install.

To the OP. Try to hook a charger up directly to batter(ies). Not via the rear bumper. Most new chargers will recognize the low voltage and go into a "desulfate" routine to rejuvenate the battery. When I had my 12v failure a year ago, I was able to bring the truck back to life by charging the 12v. You still need a 12v battery replacement but It may buy you time for service to get to it (or at least redirect the conversation away from the horn).

Don't be deterred and power through! It'll get fixed.

Thanks for the rec. So did you hook up directly to the battery yourself? And can you give me an idea of what type of charger I would need? I seem to remember lots of discussions about not being able to find a suitable jump pack. Can I just use another vehicle?

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