Wayne

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I am going with the higher capacity wire. No need to stress the wiring.
Make sure the lugs will accept 4awg.
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ajdelange

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They won't. Manual says No. 6 is the biggest. If you need to run 4 because of distance you will have to splice to No. 6 for the last couple of feet or inches.
 

ajdelange

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I assumed from the specs which say "Ethernet: 10/100Base-T" that it should have an Ethernet jack. I could be assuming incorrectly.
Obviously our perspectives are based in large measure on our experiences. I still remember a colleague who ordered an expensive spectrum analyzer based on the fact that it had a data output port. He spent about a month trying to get signals out of the connector before he finally took the cover off to find there was nothing wired to it. "For future expansion" he was told.
 

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Make sure the lugs will accept 4awg.
What’s odd is the electrician told me for 60 amp breaker I would need 4 awg but I will do whatever works. :) I need to call Tesla anyways to see how to wire this in with my powerwalls.
 

Wayne

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What’s odd is the electrician told me for 60 amp breaker I would need 4 awg but I will do whatever works. :) I need to call Tesla anyways to see how to wire this in with my powerwalls.
As someone else stated, it draws 48 amps, so it can't use a 40 amp breaker. If the 60 amp breaker really had a 60 amp draw on it, it would need 4 agw..
 

Ssaehrig

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As someone else stated, it draws 48 amps, so it can't use a 40 amp breaker. If the 60 amp breaker really had a 60 amp draw on it, it would need 4 agw..
Ahh I missed that 48 amp draw. Thank you.
 

hensot01

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As someone else stated, it draws 48 amps, so it can't use a 40 amp breaker. If the 60 amp breaker really had a 60 amp draw on it, it would need 4 agw..
It Depend on wire type and run length THWN 6 ga in conduit will handle 60 amp
 

ajdelange

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What’s odd is the electrician told me for 60 amp breaker I would need 4 awg but I will do whatever works.
Were he plannimg to use NM-B you would. And the other thing that would drive him to No. 4 would be a long run.

I need to call Tesla anyways to see how to wire this in with my powerwalls.
There are really no wiring issues. The EVSE doesn't know or care where the 240 comes from. There are operating issues, however, with the obvious one being that each Powerwall can only supply 5 kW continuous and that an R1T/R1S charging at full tilt can draw 11.52 kW thus requiring a minimum of 3 PW and a limit of about 4 kW for everything else in the house.

Now this only happens when the utility goes down after the sun has gone down or on a cloudy day which, presumably doesn't happen that often. When the utility is up and/or the sun is shining you can charge at the maximum rate without any consequences.

You don't really want to ever charge from the Powerwalls unless you have to. The reason for this is efficiency. You lose when you charge them and you lose when you discharge them. When the utility is up it doesn't matter much but during a protracted utility failure you will want to charge when the sun is shining and at a rate that is covered by the solar system. In the Tesla you can tune the charging current to whatever level you want (down to 5 A) and I assume we will be able to do the same with the Rivians.

Even if you have only the minimum 2 PW and you try to charge at night when the utility is down at the full rate you will overload the PW and they will respond by shutting down. Setting the vehicle for low charging current is the obvious way around this.

Do keep in mind that a PW holds 13.5 kWh and that the trucks have 135 kWh batteries. Thus each PW can only supply 10% of a charge. And you want that for the house. So don't charge you cars from your PW. Charge them from the solar panels!
 
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Ssaehrig

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Were he plannimg to use NM-B you would. And the other thing that would drive him to No. 4 would be a long run.


There are really no wiring issues. The EVSE doesn't know or care where the 240 comes from. There are operating issues, however, with the obvious one being that each Powerwall can only supply 5 kW continuous and that an R1T/R1S charging at full tilt can draw 11.52 kW thus requiring a minimum of 3 PW and a limit of about 4 kW for everything else in the house.

Now this only happens when the utility goes down after the sun has gone down or on a cloudy day which, presumably doesn't happen that often. When the utility is up and/or the sun is shining you can charge at the maximum rate without any consequences.

You don't really want to ever charge from the Powerwalls unless you have to. The reason for this is efficiency. You lose when you charge them and you lose when you discharge them. When the utility is up it doesn't matter much but during a protracted utility failure you will want to charge when the sun is shining and at a rate that is covered by the solar system. In the Tesla you can tune the charging current to whatever level you want (down to 5 A) and I assume we will be able to do the same with the Rivians.
Totally makes sense and agree. I just know that my main breaker panel is now a sub panel and I don’t want to screw anything up.
 

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The thing I would be most concerned about is the grounding. Presumably the Gateway is the "service entrance" and it is at that point, and only at that point, that earth and neutral should be bonded. The bonding screws should be removed in the main and sub panels. But as far as adding the EVSE is concerned it is just another branch.
 
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It Depend on wire type and run length THWN 6 ga in conduit will handle 60 amp
If you are going off 90C rating, you can use 6 AWG wiring. The problem is a lot of residential breakers are only 60C rated and you will fail inspection if your inspector is worth their salt.
 

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If you are going off 90C rating, you can use 6 AWG wiring. The problem is a lot of residential breakers are only 60C rated and you will fail inspection if your inspector is worth their salt.
@hensot01 It should be stated on the face of the breaker which temperature(s) they are rated for. For example, my Siemens QP breakers are 60/75C rated, meaning they can be used in either 60C or 75C applications assuming the correct wire is used in conjunction. A breaker rated to 75C should be sufficient for this as 6awg can pass 65 amps at 75C when the proper wiring is used.

As @Dark-Fx says, this is something an inspector should look for, and something you can check quickly to make sure you're okay.
 

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If you are going off 90C rating, you can use 6 AWG wiring. The problem is a lot of residential breakers are only 60C rated and you will fail inspection if your inspector is worth their salt.
The problem is that people post stuff without checking their facts. No. 6 THW, THWN, SE are all rated at 75° C for 65 A. The breakers sold in big box stores are rated 60/75°C (but it is probably worth checking when you pull one out of the bin).

Feel free to use N0. 6 wire of a type rated for 90°C if you want to but it is a waste. At 90 °C No. 6 is rated for 75A but you clearly don't need that for a 60 A circuit. You choose No. 6 based on it's 65A rating in THN, THWN, SE etc.
 
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How easy would it be to replace a Tesla Wall Charger (hardwired) with one of these guys? For someone who typically doesn't mess with electricity.
There are adapters to go from Tesla to J1772. They only work with Level 2 chargers.
 

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Is buying the rivian wall charger worth it for a first time buyer? Or are there other wall mounts that work just as good or better?
 
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