monzarottie

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So I'm curious. The ChargePoint Home Flex, hardwired on an 240v 80amp breaker can charge at 50 amps, adding up to 37 miles of range per hour. This is significantly more than the Rivian branded charger. Will the R1s allow for this rate of charge via the J1772 port?
https://www.chargepoint.com/drivers/home/
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jjswan33

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So I'm curious. The ChargePoint Home Flex, hardwired on an 240v 80amp breaker can charge at 50 amps, adding up to 37 miles of range per hour. This is significantly more than the Rivian branded charger. Will the R1s allow for this rate of charge via the J1772 port?
https://www.chargepoint.com/drivers/home/
You wouldn’t get 37 miles/hour with a Rivian. If it charges at 50 amp then it will give you a ~4% faster charge rate so you you can estimate you will get maybe 26 miles/hour compared to 25 miles/hour with the Rivian hard wired charger at 48 amps.
 

timesinks

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So I'm curious. The ChargePoint Home Flex, hardwired on an 240v 80amp breaker can charge at 50 amps, adding up to 37 miles of range per hour. This is significantly more than the Rivian branded charger. Will the R1s allow for this rate of charge via the J1772 port?
https://www.chargepoint.com/drivers/home/
There are at least 3 different factors:
- The wiring and capability of the EVSE (the thing on your wall -- not actually a charger, just a fancy on-off switch, Rivian's is rated up to 48A on a 60A circuit)
- The capability of the charger itself, which is inside the vehicle (Rivian's is 11.5kW, capable of accepting 48A at 240VAC)
- The efficiency of the vehicle (you don't add miles to a car, you add kWh of stored energy).

An R1T or R1S uses more stored energy to propel itself one mile than most existing EVs because it's a large, not-so-aerodynamic, heavy vehicle. It's the same reason an F150 gets much worse gas mileage than a camry.

So for the same amount of time on the same 48A charger, I'm going to add more effective miles to an ID.4 than to an R1T.
 

CommodoreAmiga

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I believe the hardware in the R1T is limited to 48A. Even if you had an EVSE capable of giving more, Rivian wouldn’t benefit from it.
 

monzarottie

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There are at least 3 different factors:
- The wiring and capability of the EVSE (the thing on your wall -- not actually a charger, just a fancy on-off switch, Rivian's is rated up to 48A on a 60A circuit)
- The capability of the charger itself, which is inside the vehicle (Rivian's is 11.5kW, capable of accepting 48A at 240VAC)
- The efficiency of the vehicle (you don't add miles to a car, you add kWh of stored energy).

An R1T or R1S uses more stored energy to propel itself one mile than most existing EVs because it's a large, not-so-aerodynamic, heavy vehicle. It's the same reason an F150 gets much worse gas mileage than a camry.

So for the same amount of time on the same 48A charger, I'm going to add more effective miles to an ID.4 than to an R1T.
Thank you. This is helpful. Not really worth going with the ChargePoint unit.
 

ajdelange

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Interesting that they suggest 6 awg wire is sufficient for the full 60A circuit setting, I guess since it only pulls 48A that is ok? I was under the impression that a 60A circuit would need 4 awg wiring.
6 awg is fine as long as it is 90° rated
If thinking of using NM-B (Romex), it is not OK as it requires using the 60° column/rating
No. 6 is fine as long as it is rated 75° C such as THW, THWN or SE and that's what most people use for this job. No. 6 is bad enough to pull and configure.

How easy would it be to replace a Tesla Wall Charger (hardwired) with one of these guys? For someone who typically doesn't mess with electricity.
That depends on whether you have Gen 2 or Gen 3 HPWC and, if Gen 2, how it was wired. The question is as to whether there is enough wire inside the wall/hpwc/conduit... to make the new connection. The Gen 3 has a big loop so I'm guessing there is probably plenty. Not sure about the Gen 2. If you are not familiar better to get an electrician.

If you have working HPWC why replace it/them?

I am going with the higher capacity wire. No need to stress the wiring.
No need. No. 6 75° is good for 65A and the most you will be pulling is 48. Per the spec the maximum size you can get into the block is #6. The only time you would need to go to NMo. 4 would be if you had such a long run that voltage drop would be a concern. Don't have the code with me but as I recall that starts at 150; or something like that.
 

kommonplace

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That depends on whether you have Gen 2 or Gen 3 HPWC and, if Gen 2, how it was wired. The question is as to whether there is enough wire inside the wall/hpwc/conduit... to make the new connection. The Gen 3 has a big loop so I'm guessing there is probably plenty. Not sure about the Gen 2. If you are not familiar better to get an electrician.

If you have working HPWC why replace it/them?
Gen 3 on the wall connector. Looking to replace if if/when I get my RIvian because then I won't need to buy an adapter. My "understanding" (using that term loosely) is that any Tesla —> J1772 adapter will cause somewhat slower charging. It makes more sense to me to use the Rivian wall charger and then if I need to charge a Tesla, use the included J1772 —> Tesla adapter.

And, honestly, part of it is aesthetics—if we have a Rivian, my wife wants the matching Rivian charger.
 

ajdelange

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9.6kw for third party chargers that plug into a properly wired 50 amp 240 volt outlet.
You need to be a little careful with this. A NEMA 14-50R is clearly a 50 A outlet but it can, and sometimes is, be properly wired to a 40A circuit in which case the EVSE must not allow more than 32 A (7.68 kW) to be taken. This is why the Rvian and Tesla 14-50 UMCs are limited to that amount of current. But there are 14-50P equipped EVSE that will allow the full 40A. They must not be used with 14-50R wired to 40A circuits.
 

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I am wondering if the purchase and install will be separate transaction. CT has a rebate up to 1000 for residential charger installation.
I would hope so. I’m paying a local contractor to do it
 

ajdelange

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Gen 3 on the wall connector.
Then I think you will be fine on pigtail length.

Looking to replace if if/when I get my RIvian because then I won't need to buy an adapter. My "understanding" (using that term loosely) is that any Tesla —> J1772 adapter will cause somewhat slower charging. It makes more sense to me to use the Rivian wall charger and then if I need to charge a Tesla, use the included J1772 —> Tesla adapter.
You have to be sure that you get a 50A adapter in which case no limitation on speed. TeslaTap has a new adapter that looks just like the J1772 to Tesla adapter.

if we have a Rivian, my wife wants the matching Rivian charger.
Ignore everything I said above.
 

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The charger included with the truck will plug into your existing outlet and give you 7.6 kw charging per Rivian. A 3rd party charger won’t give you any better I don’t think.
I can get 40Amps from the ElectrifyAmerica's wall charger plugged into a NEMA 14-50. So about the same as the Rivian one.
 

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You need to be a little careful with this. A NEMA 14-50R is clearly a 50 A outlet but it can, and sometimes is, be properly wired to a 40A circuit in which case the EVSE must not allow more than 32 A (7.68 kW) to be taken. This is why the Rvian and Tesla 14-50 UMCs are limited to that amount of current. But there are 14-50P equipped EVSE that will allow the full 40A. They must not be used with 14-50R wired to 40A circuits.
Ya. That is why I said properly wired 240 circuit…. 14-50R is over kill as EV chargers don’t need 120 volt. 6-50R would save ya money on wiring and you can the use the same receptacle to plug a home owner level welder or plasma cutter in.

But on the other hand a 14-50 plugged charger on the wall would be nice in the fact you could throw it in the vehicle and take it with you and be able to charge at 40 amps instead of 32 amps in places such as RV parks.

I’m not a fan of hardwired chargers unless you just need that extra few miles per hour charging capacity at home.
 

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WiFi is 2.4ghz. I really don't need another 2.4 ghz device in my house, ugh. I'll run Ethernet to it, it will be near a switch thank goodness.
Uh-oh. There's trouble. Hard wiring to a switch is a good idea but I can't find anything in the instructions on how to do that. The drawings aren;t great but I didn't see any RJ-45's in them so where do you plug in?

More concerning is that I saw no instructions on how to wire multiple units together to allow sharing nor was there any indication that I caught that sharing is possible via WiFi. If these features are or may be at some future time (as when you buy 2nd or 3rd) BEV you might want to think about gettin this unit for your EVSE.
 

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Uh-oh. There's trouble. Hard wiring to a switch is a good idea but I can't find anything in the instructions on how to do that. The drawings aren;t great but I didn't see any RJ-45's in them so where do you plug in?

More concerning is that I saw no instructions on how to wire multiple units together to allow sharing nor was there any indication that I caught that sharing is possible via WiFi. If these features are or may be at some future time (as when you buy 2nd or 3rd) BEV you might want to think about gettin this unit for your EVSE.
I assumed from the specs which say "Ethernet: 10/100Base-T" that it should have an Ethernet jack. I could be assuming incorrectly.
 

ajdelange

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I can get 40Amps from the ElectrifyAmerica's wall charger plugged into a NEMA 14-50. So about the same as the Rivian one.
There are probably a dozen units you can buy with a 14-50P on them that will deliver 40A. WallBox Pulsar comes to mind. And you can make the Rivian charger into one of those by obtaining a plug, a cord and a gland and Rivian CS even told someone here that this was possible but that they didn't recommend doing that (lots of potential code issues).
 
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