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12V battery troubles

Dbilawey

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Finally my R1T is on its way.
It seems as though there are some issues with the 12V battery running down and people unable to get in the truck and unable to drive it. I have seen people recommending a portable battery jumper to connect to the jump wires by the trailer hitch to wake the truck up and gain entry.
Does this work?

I plan on camping and being in remote areas that possibly have no cell service. I don’t want to be stranded because of a 12V issue.

Does anyone have actual experience with a dead 12V and how did you fix it?
Recommendations to keep from being stranded in remote areas?

Thanks and happy trails.
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Mickey

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My charger wasn't strong enough so I connected the wires to a "jump car". It took a few moments but I could get it to wake up enough to unlock it, and all of the compartments, to retrieve my belongings before the tow truck arrived.

I don't know if it could have been recharged with a larger charger, or not. However, the problem was still there and it would have eventually died again. No suggestion for you if you happen to be in the boonies, but maybe get someone to check their voltages before going.

Note: The battery issue I experienced does NOT apply to all R1Ts. I understand that it was only with certain earlier builds. You might check with Rivian on this.
 
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Dbilawey

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My charger wasn't strong enough so I connected the wires to a "jump car". It took a few moments but I could get it to wake up enough to unlock it, and all of the compartments, to retrieve my belongings before the tow truck arrived.

I don't know if it could have been recharged with a larger charger, or not. However, the problem was still there and it would have eventually died again. No suggestion for you if you happen to be in the boonies, but maybe get someone to check their voltages before going.

Note: The battery issue I experienced does NOT apply to all R1Ts. I understand that it was only with certain earlier builds. You might check with Rivian on this.
So even though it would wake up and you could get in, it still wouldn‘t drive?
 

Mickey

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So even though it would wake up and you could get in, it still wouldn‘t drive?
That's correct. My 12v batteries were so dead that everything would go off once I disconnected the jumper cables. Without those batteries, the truck has no operating computer to run things.

BTW... It took about a month before the batteries went dead. Rivian fixed it (I hope) by replacing the main high-voltage battery. The Atlanta RSC told me there was "a switch stuck open (off) inside the main battery that was preventing the routine charging of the two 12v batteries", (which operate the system's electronics). 🤔

I STILL LOVE MY R1T !!!! You'll be happy, too.
 
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Dbilawey

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That's correct. My 12v batteries were so dead that everything would go off once I disconnected the jumper cables. Without those batteries, the truck has no operating computer to run things.

BTW... It took about a month before the batteries went dead. Rivian fixed it (I hope) by replacing the main high-voltage battery. The Atlanta RSC told me there was "a switch stuck open (off) inside the main battery that was preventing the routine charging of the two 12v batteries", (which operate the system's electronics). 🤔

I STILL LOVE MY R1T !!!! You'll be happy, too.
Excellent!
Do you know how the 12V charge? The HV batts keep the 12v charged as needed or only when driving? Or charged mechanically while driving by regen?
Thinking of your situation. If a portable battery jumper could power and remain attached, powering the computer, you should be able to drive it in an emergency? And if it could drive, would the 12V system eventually charge itself?

Thanks for all the 411
 

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Mickey

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Excellent!
Do you know how the 12V charge? The HV batts keep the 12v charged as needed or only when driving? Or charged mechanically while driving by regen?
Thinking of your situation. If a portable battery jumper could power and remain attached, powering the computer, you should be able to drive it in an emergency? And if it could drive, would the 12V system eventually charge itself?

Thanks for all the 411
Good question. I don't know for sure but I think the 12s are charged as needed since there is supposedly an automatic "switch" involved.

In an emergency, I don't see why an appropriately spec'd type of auxiliary power wouldn't work. (Don't forget your electric tape. 😊) You should ask your Rivian Guide about this.

However, since your R1T is currently being delivered, I don't think you'll have any 12v battery issues of the earlier builds. You can always run it by the North Vegas RSC on occasion just to check the voltages if it would help your concerns before heading out to camp.

Maybe a software update someday will provide this voltage info on the dash monitor.
 

riviansmoke

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This sounds like a serious issue that needs to be fixed, but does anyone know if the 120V outlets are active when the vehicle is in drive? If so, as a last resort could you power a larger 12V charger to provide power to the main system to get back to civilization if access to the 12V system is accessible? This would require a battery backup charger type that you’d only put to use in the event you find yourself stranded.
 
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Dbilawey

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This sounds like a serious issue that needs to be fixed, but does anyone know if the 120V outlets are active when the vehicle is in drive? If so, as a last resort could you power a larger 12V charger to provide power to the main system to get back to civilization if access to the 12V system is accessible? This would require a battery backup charger type that you’d only put to use in the event you find yourself stranded.
That’s an interesting idea. Use a 120V plug in charger connected to the 12V system at the trailer hitch to power the 12V system. My feeling is the 12v system needs power to run the systems that control everything. Including the 120V plugs. So without the 12V working, nothing works. But that’s a guess.
 

riviansmoke

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Yes I agree that once the 12V system is dead, that you wouldn’t have access to the 120V outlets. I was thinking more of a portable jump starter that could be carried in the event that the 12V battery died such as:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-Ul...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468493509&psc=1

Once the system is up, you could then charge the device from the 120V outlets to keep the system alive until you get back. Would need to pick a jump starter that stays alive while plugged in to 120V, but could be an option.
 
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Dbilawey

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Yes I agree that once the 12V system is dead, that you wouldn’t have access to the 120V outlets. I was thinking more of a portable jump starter that could be carried in the event that the 12V battery died such as:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-Ul...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468493509&psc=1

Once the system is up, you could then charge the device from the 120V outlets to keep the system alive until you get back. Would need to pick a jump starter that stays alive while plugged in to 120V, but could be an option.
I got ya. Ya, that’s what I was thinking. Keeping the NOCO running the 12V system while driving. Didn’t think about plugging it in while it’s running everything. Good idea. If it works.
 

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I got ya. Ya, that’s what I was thinking. Keeping the NOCO running the 12V system while driving. Didn’t think about plugging it in while it’s running everything. Good idea. If it works.
Unlikely to work based on the described scenario. I haven't seen any information that the on board 120VAC inverter is powered directly from the HV battery (correct me if wrong). My understanding from other discussions is that the 120VAC inverter is powered by the 12 volt battery. If there is a problem that the HV battery cannot charge the 12 volt batteries, then charging the NOCO using a 120->12 volt charger which is powered by the onboard 120 VAC inverter, which in turn is powered by the NOCO via the 12v plug in isn't going to work. It will just drain the NOCO faster. This is essentially a perpetual motion machine, lol.
 
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Dbilawey

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Unlikely to work based on the described scenario. I haven't seen any information that the on board 120VAC inverter is powered directly from the HV battery (correct me if wrong). My understanding from other discussions is that the 120VAC inverter is powered by the 12 volt battery. If there is a problem that the HV battery cannot charge the 12 volt batteries, then charging the NOCO using a 120->12 volt charger which is powered by the onboard 120 VAC inverter, which in turn is powered by the NOCO via the 12v plug in isn't going to work. It will just drain the NOCO faster. This is essentially a perpetual motion machine, lol.
Great info. That sounds legit. So the best I could get (if it works) in an emergency is driving until the NOCO runs out of juice.
Geez, I hope any issues have been fixed by Rivian.
 

Zoidz

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Great info. That sounds legit. So the best I could get (if it works) in an emergency is driving until the NOCO runs out of juice.
Geez, I hope any issues have been fixed by Rivian.
Yep, you could in theory run until the NOCO dies. I don't have my Rivian yet, but for this and a few other reasons, I just ordered a NOCO from Amazon. They have some great CyberMonday discounts running right now.
 

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@Dbilawey I think you have a very low probability of having this happen but if you are concerned you can check the 12V batteries with a voltmeter by opening the hood and removing the cowling near the wipers which pops off easily without tools. This is where the two seprate 12V batteries reside which you can easily see the terminals to test voltage at.
 

japine

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Post-Mortem Update on Bricked 12v Battery caused (Per Rivian) by file corruption issues caused by its own recent update to the vehicle"

Per our call today I would make 2 suggestions for future iterations of the Rivian truck or SUV:

(1) Mechanical key emergency entry (I am familiar with the hook pull to access the frunk and used it once as pictured below) but there is no access to the interior when the 12v battery bricks (I tried to charge it from the rear access point and it would not take charge as confirmed by Rivian because the cell was dead); and

(2) New dashboard digital guage that will show the current status of 12V battery (primary and secnodary) given how critical their state of charge is for people who drive this vehicle. Keep in mind it is not a redunant set up but hemispherical. The left side of the truck relies on the primary and the right half the secondary. That is bad and especially problematic when I am blind about their charge status.

Please tell RJ to consider both suggestions.

Conclusion: This most recent update bricked the 12v battery (did not disturb the High Voltage battery) and that rendered the truck inaccessible other than the frunk after an emergency release was pulled (I had trouble locating the pull wire so I pointed to it with a red arrow):

IMG_3651.jpeg
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