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I've spent the last 20 minutes looking through Dragy runs. Out of all the 0-60 times listed, I can't find a single run that matched the claimed factory time of 3.0 seconds. Best I saw was 3.13 on a prepped track. Only 4 under 3.3 seconds and most 3.4 and up.

The fastest PDM I saw was 3.75 0-60. I didn't see any 1/4 mile runs for anything but QMs. Of the top 10 quickest Rivians, 9 were R1T's and they filled the 7 quickest spots. The R1S does have a slight weight advantage.

So where is the missing performance? Apparently there might have been a unicorn somewhere that ran the fabled 3 second flat time. I hate when manufacturers do this. My Porsches and BMW would almost always hit their times, or be so close it was believable, and quite often beat them.

All the magazine tests I could find never seemed to match the claimed specs. I won't call it lying, but it sure looks pretty close to a significant misstatement. I will note that I can't find if Rivian includes or omits rollout with their claimed times.
Rivian includes rollout, that might be where the discrepancy is occurring. I do agree though, German cars always sandbag their times and efficiency numbers so you know it will do what it says or better. Better has been my experience as well.
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DayTripping

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I prefer the German approach to underestimate and over-deliver. Only one car I had, and AMG Benz that didn't make its numbers. Found out it had an issue and was leaking boost.

I ran through all the runs and only one met or beat the claimed time. All the other ones were at leat a tenth higher. It isn't like an EV is typically hard to launch. On my Plaid at the track, I can typically get close to Tesla's claims that I am fine. My M3 Performance I can meet or beat. My Model S Long range never would even come close. Sort of like what I am seeing from other peoples' runs.

I'd love to know exactly what settings Rivian used to get their times and track conditions.

For example:
Temps
Battery Temps
Motor Temps
DA - 1500'
Prepped surface
21" range wheels/tires 48 PSI
SoC 95%
Sport mode
Low suspension
Soft mode
etc.
etc.
 

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I've spent the last 20 minutes looking through Dragy runs. Out of all the 0-60 times listed, I can't find a single run that matched the claimed factory time of 3.0 seconds. Best I saw was 3.13 on a prepped track. Only 4 under 3.3 seconds and most 3.4 and up.

The fastest PDM I saw was 3.75 0-60. I didn't see any 1/4 mile runs for anything but QMs. Of the top 10 quickest Rivians, 9 were R1T's and they filled the 7 quickest spots. The R1S does have a slight weight advantage.

So where is the missing performance? Apparently there might have been a unicorn somewhere that ran the fabled 3 second flat time. I hate when manufacturers do this. My Porsches and BMW would almost always hit their times, or be so close it was believable, and quite often beat them.

All the magazine tests I could find never seemed to match the claimed specs. I won't call it lying, but it sure looks pretty close to a significant misstatement. I will note that I can't find if Rivian includes or omits rollout with their claimed times.
What tires do you have on your R1T? You will get better performance with street tires. Also did you launch with your foot on the brake at full throttle? Seems like 3.1 or even 3.3 is pretty close to the best time you could possibly get. Seems pretty nitpicky to me.
 

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Wasn’t Rivian’s claim something vague like “around 3 seconds” to begin with?
 

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Curiously does this mean that a PDM only gets its extra power in Sport compared to a standard dual motor?
Yes, that's correct. AP is not responsive at all by EV standards, even if you drive around with stability reduced to keep the rear motor active.

I definitely discourage people from springing for the performance trim. If you actually care about performance, just buy a quad that doesn't mess with your drive settings. I think Rivian intentionally nerfed the performance dual above 50 mph so that it didn't steal the quad's thunder. Below 50 mph on all terrain tires they are actually pretty close since traction is limited.
 

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What tires do you have on your R1T? You will get better performance with street tires. Also did you launch with your foot on the brake at full throttle? Seems like 3.1 or even 3.3 is pretty close to the best time you could possibly get. Seems pretty nitpicky to me.
I have the 21's (street tires).

I don't want to assume you aren't a "car" guy. If you are, you'll understand how significant going from 3.3 to 3.1 would be. Trimming 2 tenths off a fairly fast 0-60 time is significant and so is slowing by several tenths. People have spent thousands to have gotten less of a gain than that when already sub 4 seconds.

For a person who appreciates performance (not everyone does), from 3.3 to 3.0 would be significant. That is a difference of almost a tenth of a 'g' in acceleration. Many people would actually feel that difference.

One of the reasons I bought a Rivian is for its acceleration. Some people won't care and 4.4 seconds on a stock DM is just fine. To each their own.

From the Rivian website. Also noted on the Rivian Wikipedia.

How quickly can you accelerate from 0-60 mph?
Depending on your configuration, the R1T and the R1S can accelerate from 0-60 mph in as quick as 3 seconds.

Learn more about the capabilities of the R1T and the R1S.

https://rivian.com/support/article/how-quickly-can-you-accelerate-from-0-60-mph
 

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Yes, that's correct. AP is not responsive at all by EV standards, even if you drive around with stability reduced to keep the rear motor active.

I definitely discourage people from springing for the performance trim. If you actually care about performance, just buy a quad that doesn't mess with your drive settings. I think Rivian intentionally nerfed the performance dual above 50 mph so that it didn't steal the quad's thunder. Below 50 mph on all terrain tires they are actually pretty close since traction is limited.
So they nerfed the Gen2 large pack's size and, possibly nerfed higher speed acceleration of the PDM. Sounds like something Tesla would do. :cool:

Even with the 21" street tires, I have traction issues on a lot of surfaces.
 

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I have the 21's (street tires).

I don't want to assume you aren't a "car" guy. If you are, you'll understand how significant going from 3.3 to 3.1 would be. Trimming 2 tenths off a fairly fast 0-60 time is significant and so is slowing by several tenths. People have spent thousands to have gotten less of a gain than that when already sub 4 seconds.

For a person who appreciates performance (not everyone does), from 3.3 to 3.0 would be significant. That is a difference of almost a tenth of a 'g' in acceleration. Many people would actually feel that difference.

One of the reasons I bought a Rivian is for its acceleration. Some people won't care and 4.4 seconds on a stock DM is just fine. To each their own.

From the Rivian website. Also noted on the Rivian Wikipedia.

How quickly can you accelerate from 0-60 mph?
Depending on your configuration, the R1T and the R1S can accelerate from 0-60 mph in as quick as 3 seconds.

Learn more about the capabilities of the R1T and the R1S.

https://rivian.com/support/article/how-quickly-can-you-accelerate-from-0-60-mph
The 21s are the range tires, not the sport tires. For the best 0-60 you'll need the 22s.
 

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Monro also noted that the Stator on the rear rivian motors is significantly larger and that there might be room for potential power output of the rear drive units though software. I trust though that there was probably a good reason they chose to pull back from the front vs adding more power to the back. but we can dream.
The motors on the G1 QM are actually all identical. The difference is that the front motors are geared slightly taller and the rear shorter, though the Munro video didn't give numbers that I remember. But this is one reason the axle disconnects are on the rear motors...taller gearing is better for highway speeds for efficiency. The rear is shorter since weight transfers to the rear under acceleration and RJ stated that the front was still traction-limited even with the taller gearing, so it wouldn't be surprising if they were pulling some power from the front to maintain grip. The G2 Tri and Quad will have more powerful motors at the rear vs G1 to take full advantage of the extra grip at the back end. I will say that on a slick (ice/snow) surface drift mode is highly entertaining. I had the opportunity to run a snowcross last winter and only discovered this on my final run, but the truck was so much easier to control and really point where you wanted it. It wasn't a big deal that you're effectively down on power since you can't put much down on the snow anyway, but it dialed most of the understeer out of the truck while trying to pirouette around tight corners.

What tires do you have on your R1T? You will get better performance with street tires. Also did you launch with your foot on the brake at full throttle? Seems like 3.1 or even 3.3 is pretty close to the best time you could possibly get. Seems pretty nitpicky to me.
This matters 100%, @DayTripping. You'll get best performance on a Gen1 Quad with the 22s. The Gen2 Quad comes with a new Michelin Pilot Sport 5 as the spicy tire and in a staggered setup with 305s out back, IIRC. Just putting winter tires on my R1T QM from the factory Pirelli 34" ATs I notice a huge drop in acceleration performance, though I haven't instrumented it yet. They definitely changed the programming a bit since last winter as now if I peg the throttle off the line it'll actually spin the tires where last winter it would not, and this is in AP mode. I almost feel like the .47 update did give a little more pep to AP mode, but I could be dreaming...again, no instrumentation. Even the 34" tire diameter will make a difference for outright performance over the 33s...the 33s will effectively be shorter gearing and faster acceleration, but less top speed, as well as weighing less than the 34s.
 

DayTripping

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The Dragy showed up but I couldn't find any places to do full passes or even launch. I was able to get in some 30-70 runs in AP. For comparison, here are the numbers Car and Driver got for a 2022 LE QM.

Rivian R1T R1S More power & faster in All Purpose than Sport Mode - confirmed with data / dragy 1734822386361-ja


Here are the numbers I got 2024.47.01 in AP mode. SoC was 68%. I have a 2023 R1T Adventure Edition QM on 21's. It was 55F, and my battery temps were 65F when I made my first pull and motor temps were all under 80F. Between me and the cargo in the truck, probably looking at 500#'s as I had a bunch of tools in the gear tunnel and I am 230#. All times are with a Dragy. There can be some slight rounding occuring.

AP runs
First pass:
30-50: 1.21
50-70: 1.96
30-70: 3.18
30-80: 4.45

Second pass:
30-50: 1.08
50-70: 1.87
30-70: 2.94
30-80: 4.22

Sport runs
My first pass was:
30-50: 1.22
50-70: 1.86
30-70: 3.08
30-80: ran out of room

They were ran in order. So the Sport run had the advantage of the warmest pack and motors but they weren't hot. At the end of the last run they were at about 122-125. Which is pretty close to the temps I see running down the highway in AP or Sport mode. The second AP run was even slightly uphill, enough that it was considered an invalid run but being uphill made it all the more impressive than the Sport mode which was pretty level.

You can draw your own conclusions from the numbers but the one clear thing is everyone one of my passes bested the C&D numbers. Combining their 30-50 + 50-70 times puts it at about 3.8 seconds. At worst I was 7 tenths better and at almost 9 tenths. This is significantly better. Even more impressive is was at a 68% SoC when I started.

What is interesting, but not surprising, is the AP best run was better than the Sport run, even with the drivetrain not up to temps yet. The power meter is definitely showing higher on the AP runs than Sport as others have noted.

For a reference point, the R1T will hang pretty well with a refreshed (2021+) Model S long range until until about 65 mph. That car is very quick from about 50 mph up. Mine would run 10.8's in the 1/4 all day long and trap in the high 120's.

I'll do more runs when I have time. I plan to do most of the runs around 60-80% SoC. If I charge to 90-100%, I won't drive it enough to run down the charge quick enough. I hate to keep it at a high SoC to minimize degradation.

Not sure if there is enough interest, but a dedicated Dragy thread (if there is one I couldn't find it) could be interesting to other acceleration junkies like me.
 

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Honestly, if it was any slower, I probably Would have executed on the cyber truck reservation.

I just did an interesting experiment, I was only charged up to about 65%, but I made a full throttle run from about 50 in sport mode. The power gauge didn’t go all the way to the top of the bar. I switched to AP mode and made a run and the power bar went almost all the way to the top even at the lower SoC. I had already lost at least 10%. But based on that, I feel pretty comfortable though that even at 65%, the battery pack of supply enough energy to support a full power run.

In AP, it was clearly pulling harder than sport mode. So I went back to sport mode went full throttle again, at about 70 I hit AP mode while in the middle of the acceleration run. It clearly started pulling harder when I switched over to AP mode in the middle of that run. It was like a 50 to 100 shot of nitrous on an ICE motor.

So I tried the experiment in reverse. I started out in AP mode, hit sport mode, and it definitely slowed down in the middle of the run.

WTF? This is total BS.

What is the purpose of Sport mode if it doesn't pull at max power all the way up?
The Dragy showed up but I couldn't find any places to do full passes or even launch. I was able to get in some 30-70 runs in AP. For comparison, here are the numbers Car and Driver got for a 2022 LE QM.

1734822386361-ja.png


Here are the numbers I got 2024.47.01 in AP mode. SoC was 68%. I have a 2023 R1T Adventure Edition QM on 21's. It was 55F, and my battery temps were 65F when I made my first pull and motor temps were all under 80F. Between me and the cargo in the truck, probably looking at 500#'s as I had a bunch of tools in the gear tunnel and I am 230#. All times are with a Dragy. There can be some slight rounding occuring.

AP runs
First pass:
30-50: 1.21
50-70: 1.96
30-70: 3.18
30-80: 4.45

Second pass:
30-50: 1.08
50-70: 1.87
30-70: 2.94
30-80: 4.22

Sport runs
My first pass was:
30-50: 1.22
50-70: 1.86
30-70: 3.08
30-80: ran out of room

They were ran in order. So the Sport run had the advantage of the warmest pack and motors but they weren't hot. At the end of the last run they were at about 122-125. Which is pretty close to the temps I see running down the highway in AP or Sport mode. The second AP run was even slightly uphill, enough that it was considered an invalid run but being uphill made it all the more impressive than the Sport mode which was pretty level.

You can draw your own conclusions from the numbers but the one clear thing is everyone one of my passes bested the C&D numbers. Combining their 30-50 + 50-70 times puts it at about 3.8 seconds. At worst I was 7 tenths better and at almost 9 tenths. This is significantly better. Even more impressive is was at a 68% SoC when I started.

What is interesting, but not surprising, is the AP best run was better than the Sport run, even with the drivetrain not up to temps yet. The power meter is definitely showing higher on the AP runs than Sport as others have noted.

For a reference point, the R1T will hang pretty well with a refreshed (2021+) Model S long range until until about 65 mph. That car is very quick from about 50 mph up. Mine would run 10.8's in the 1/4 all day long and trap in the high 120's.

I'll do more runs when I have time. I plan to do most of the runs around 60-80% SoC. If I charge to 90-100%, I won't drive it enough to run down the charge quick enough. I hate to keep it at a high SoC to minimize degradation.

Not sure if there is enough interest, but a dedicated Dragy thread (if there is one I couldn't find it) could be interesting to other acceleration junkies like me.

I would totally contribute to a draggy thread.
 

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Has anyone noticed the yellow bar will not max out at highways speeds at full throttle in sport?

Try it in all purpose and while the response is slow you will see the bar max out. (Assuming sufficient charge temps, and traction)

but this is not enough for me I love performance and data. I used the service screen to confirm that in sport while at low speeds you will get 1600amp briefly above 40mph the amps max out at 1400amps, in all purpose over 40 you will get 1600amps. With a full charge the voltage will sag to about 385v if you do the maths 385x1600 =616kw or about 825hp this seems on point. But why why why do we only get 700hp when in sport over 40?


I was even more shocked when this was backed up by repeated 50-100 runs using a “draggy” measuring device.
Average 50-100
Sport 6.25
All purpose 5.52
That is 14% slower in sport!

I ran this experiment on multiple days slightly varying all possible variables like ride hight traction control ect and yet the results are consistent within a few %

I would love to see if anyone else can confirm this. The good news is that the yellow bar is a true representation of the amps. Or power however you want to think of it. Just imagine 835hp or 1600amps at the top (gen1 quad)

I would also love to see if this is the case on some of the other motor setups especially if someone is willing to get in the service screens and see what amps the gen2s are pulling.

First photo is sport , second is all purpose 3rd is draggy comparison of 50-100 times
IMG_7500.jpeg
.

IMG_7502.jpeg



IMG_7504.jpeg
Good information, but I do have a question. I have a Gen 1 Quad and I've never seen the display screen you show. Where is it and how do I get there?

Thanks, in advance, for your help.
 

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That is for service mode. You can pull it up in one of the diagnostic screens.

 
 








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