Subwoofer replacement, anyone?

[jasonphoto01]

proaudioutah

Power fed by #mtx thunder1000/1 and because these don't really have a 12v switched signal this gets its signal from a JL Audio LOC-22 which turns on and sends a remote turn on to the amp after the meridian sub starts playing via signal sense.

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[CommodoreAmiga]

I need this in my life...

Part of me really wants that.... But I'd be concerned with my truck rattling apart with it. With the stock (unimpressive) audio system it already feels like a tin can with rocks.

 

[Blueassassin]

Part of me really wants that.... But I'd be concerned with my truck rattling apart with it. With the stock (unimpressive) audio system it already feels like a tin can with rocks.

I noticed I have things in the under seat storage that are rattling. Also i wonder if we can cotton fill around the stock sub looking at the pictures in this thread. might help factory performance.

 

[CommodoreAmiga]

I noticed I have things in the under seat storage that are rattling. Also i wonder if we can cotton fill around the stock sub looking at the pictures in this thread. might help factory performance.

I've tried removing EVERYTHING from my truck and the rattles remain. It's the door panels/trim, unfortunately.

 

[brancky3]

I've tried removing EVERYTHING from my truck and the rattles remain. It's the door panels/trim, unfortunately.

Have you tried taking the door panel off and wrapping any loose connectors / hard contact points with foam tape?

 

[CommodoreAmiga]

Have you tried taking the door panel off and wrapping any loose connectors / hard contact points with foam tape?

Rivian Service has had the panels off three times.

I have considered doing it myself, but I've resisted the urge for a couple reasons:

1) If I break any clips then I have zero confidence that Rivian will sell me the parts I need to replace them.
2) I spoke with a senior Rivian tech and they warned me that several parts of the door panel have molded-in clips/retainers and if you break those then the whole door panel would need to be replaced. (I am suspicious that this is partially why Rivian has been unable to address my rattles).
3) Even if I do improve the rattle situation, I fear Rivian will use my involvement as an excuse to refuse addressing the issue any further.

#1/2 are the primary reasons I haven't tried.

 

[Blueassassin]

Just need a box now.

 

[Blueassassin]

also I wonder where they mounted the Amp.

 

[brancky3]

also I wonder where they mounted the Amp.

I think the box is a regular rectangle with a shaped top panel. That means they could have mounted the amp on the long front panel, under the top panel so you don't see it. I have a spare JL 8w3v2 sitting in my garage I may build a box for in a couple weekends. Where are you planning to get 12v power into the cabin?

 

[NY_Rob]

Yeah I don’t think a 6”x9” can be considered a real subwoofer.

Haven't read this whole thread... is our "sub" really a 6X9 speaker?

 

[strykerwsu]

Just need a box now.

Following.

 

[Blueassassin]

I think the box is a regular rectangle with a shaped top panel. That means they could have mounted the amp on the long front panel, under the top panel so you don't see it. I have a spare JL 8w3v2 sitting in my garage I may build a box for in a couple weekends. Where are you planning to get 12v power into the cabin?

I assume we will have to go into the frunk to the batteries.

 

[rkalbiar]

Seems like a bazooka type sub in the rear under seat storage would not be too hard to pull off, for those looking for some low end, not truck rattling THUMPs..

 

[kross]

From the original post:

Be aware that this is an extremely subjective *opinion*. While some may like an excessive boost in the bass, and associate that with a "good" system (and even associate that with "correct" sounding music), that is not true of everyone or perhaps even *most* people.

I personally refer a very flat response, like you get from studio monitors for instance. That allows me to hear the music as recorded and as intended by the artist. I use the EQ to compensate for the room and for my preferred listening volume (human sound frequency perception varies with volume and with frequency).

In my opinion, Rivian's sound system provides very accurate reproduction of recordings. The biggest problem is the lack of support for high-resolution uncompressed audio unaffected by over-the-air transmission (4G or Bluetooth), for example from a hardwired USB stick.

But again, this is completely subjective. Perhaps Rivian's system doesn't allow you to boost the bass enough for your tastes, but in my experience it is very accurate in reproducing the sound as recorded.

I'm not looking to be excessive, but accurate and with impact. I've found "impact" (tactile) to be as important as anything, and a high quality woofer can provide this. I've achieved this equally in the past with ridiculous 2x15", 4x12", down to something as simple as 2x8". I have even heard a single 6.5" with the appropriate enclosure sound great. Personally, my best sounding system (long ago) was a single 12" in a single bandpass box but supremely positioned to impact the user.

In other words, it's not about boom, it's about enjoyment, and tactile ability is part of that. A 15" woofer is able to provide a tactile sensation at a very low volume due to surface area that a 6.5" cannot. I've had such good luck with JL in the past, both car and home that I'd look there first, but have no qualms about evaluating others. Certainly there is the potential to add something like a shaker to the seat post and perhaps get everything I need with no modification to the existing speakers...I'm still unsure since I am 3 days in.

I'm a former IASCA judge, have built and worked on championship winning sound quality and SPL vehicles (in the 90s), and have equal experience in home environments. The factory system is good but I feel like the impact could be better. On the flip side, the mid/kick bass is quite good on my initial impression.

I have a personal defect/hearing spike 1k-2k, and I have struggled to pull it out of the system without reducing the liveliness of the recording. I really wish we could pay for a software update to gain access to more granular tuning bands.

Don't let me give you the impression it is bad though! Our Porsche Bose and MB Burmeister aren't as good from the factory, far from it actually.

 

[kross]

Part of me really wants that.... But I'd be concerned with my truck rattling apart with it. With the stock (unimpressive) audio system it already feels like a tin can with rocks.

I noticed it can sound awful, but with proper tuning it can be quite lively and satisfying. When looking at the EQ, return to defaults, and try to cut instead of boost. It's not always possible but it does improve the result.

Regarding rattles, if you are motivated, using silicone on the backside of panel parts, as well as adding additional single-sided stick weather strip in key areas can help a ton. I haven't pulled a panel yet, but certainly the combo closed cell foam+mlv type of sound dampening can make a huge diff, especially if the rattle is not as a panel reaction to the rest of the vehicle but as a reaction to the transducer in the door/area itself.

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