Subwoofer replacement, anyone?

[brancky3]

The R1T has a great sound system, but the subwoofer is extremely lacking on the low end. Mid bass is fine, but it seems to drop off so sharply that 20-55ish hz sounds absolutely horrendous. Does anyone have any info on the stock subwoofer? Can the speaker be replaced? Are the inputs optical or anything weird?

Sponsored

 

[COdogman]

I haven’t heard of anyone poking around under there to check it out and I don’t recall ever seeing any specific info from Rivian/ Meridian on each speaker - just the system as a whole. My guess is it can be replaced (most things can be), but how easily could be a different story.

 

[MReda]

It's pretty easy to remove the entire sub and box assembly as one piece to take a look at it. There is plenty of space for a larger replacement, tons of space if you're willing to use up some of the rear seat storage behind the driver. It looked to me like a new amp would be required, using the existing speaker wire as a high level input to a new amp.

I drove around without it for a couple of days. Depending on the music and volume level, it was hard to tell it wasn't there...

 

[COdogman]

It's pretty easy to remove the entire sub and box assembly as one piece to take a look at it. There is plenty of space for a larger replacement, tons of space if you're willing to use up some of the rear seat storage behind the driver. It looked to me like a new amp would be required, using the existing speaker wire as a high level input to a new amp.

I drove around without it for a couple of days. Depending on the music and volume level, it was hard to tell it wasn't there...

So it is a standalone sub/ box that can be removed? That‘s good to hear. I wasn’t sure if they did that or just had a molded “box” like compartment under there which would limit what kind of replacements one could choose.

Maybe some enterprising audiophile will sell replacement subs designed to fit that space

 

[MReda]

So it is a standalone sub/ box that can be removed? That‘s good to hear. I wasn’t sure if they did that or just had a molded “box” like compartment under there which would limit what kind of replacements one could choose.

Maybe some enterprising audiophile will sell replacement subs designed to fit that space

Yeah, the hardest part for a DIY job would be the fact that it is mounted from the top and hanging down into the cavity below the seat. I think I remember it having foam tape on the bottom to rest on. That top mounting flange would be a pain for someone (with my skill levels) to reproduce. The cavity was also an odd shape, but patience or machinery could make it work.

 

[brancky3]

Yeah, the hardest part for a DIY job would be the fact that it is mounted from the top and hanging down into the cavity below the seat. I think I remember it having foam tape on the bottom to rest on. That top mounting flange would be a pain for someone (with my skill levels) to reproduce. The cavity was also an odd shape, but patience or machinery could make it work.

Really? I tried to find a trim piece to pry up and no luck, maybe the whole thing is bolted in somewhere? I’ll have to look more later.

 

[MReda]

Really? I tried to find a trim piece to pry up and no luck, maybe the whole thing is bolted in somewhere? I’ll have to look more later.

I don't have pictures of the disassembly process, but this is what it looks like with the sub out. Not shown in the picture is a trim piece that wrapped around the front. The piece in the back was the biggest pain, and I might have broken a clip, but with everything reinstalled it seems fine. Then it was just a couple screws that could be accessed from the top.

 

[Blueassassin]

looks like the storage bin has potential to be bigger?

 

[COdogman]

looks like the storage bin has potential to be bigger?

It does look like they could have made it a different shape that offered more space. Weird.

 

[MReda]

looks like the storage bin has potential to be bigger?

Yeah, if you don't mind tucking things under the back of the seat, the bottom of the storage compartment could be almost twice as wide. I personally wouldn't mind that, since what you see in that photo is a camera tripod. It would fit under there nicely.

 

[brancky3]

I don't have pictures of the disassembly process, but this is what it looks like with the sub out. Not shown in the picture is a trim piece that wrapped around the front. The piece in the back was the biggest pain, and I might have broken a clip, but with everything reinstalled it seems fine. Then it was just a couple screws that could be accessed from the top.

So looks like the connector is a simple two wire plug? I was hoping that it was a self powered unit so I wouldn’t have to run another power cable if I used a small powered sub. I think I’ll wait for a direct replacement, although I am handy and have a spare JL 8w3v3 collecting dust in my garage.

 

[obfuscurity]

I'd love to find out if a swap can be done at all and what limitations might exist. Sounds like a fun project to replace it with something like a Skar Audio VD-8 in a ported box and maybe a Sundown Audio amp.

 

[suprteck]

I installed a NVX boost box on my Model 3 and hope they come out with something similar for the Rivian. Just wondering where to hook up the 12v to. In the Tesla it’s right under the back seat. I don’t feel like running a power cable all they way to the frunk to the 12V batteries. Was thinking of running a JL audio micro sub , NVX line out converter and nvx class D amp

 

[kurtlikevonnegut]

I installed a NVX boost box on my Model 3 and hope they come out with something similar for the Rivian. Just wondering where to hook up the 12v to. In the Tesla it’s right under the back seat. I don’t feel like running a power cable all they way to the frunk to the 12V batteries.

There is a 12v plug on the underside of the dash below the main display. If you have a T, it might be easier to route into the gear tunnel via the passthrough and plug into the 12v there.

 

[suprteck]

There is a 12v plug on the underside of the dash below the main display. If you have a T, it might be easier to route into the gear tunnel via the passthrough and plug into the 12v there.

That 12v source won’t work for a amplifier that pulls lots of current. Will need a thick cable with fuse straight to battery.

Sponsored