Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T

[mindstormsguy]

Sure, but not if the sub is inside the plastic tub.

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[Stargazer]

I wanted to add a little more bass in my R1T but really didn't want to modify anything that I couldn't return to stock. On other cars and trucks I've had, I am always down to cut drill into parts since you can easily buy replacement parts online. But that's not the case for Rivian! I landed on this 10" JL powered sub from Crutchfield with their 8awg power kit. I also got the JL remote and RCA to speaker wire adapter.

First off, big shoutout to @Mohelp for his install thread here! He has some great info on power connection, wire routing, and OE plastic removal!

I poked the power wire though one of the free tentacles on this gromet and connected the wire to the free screw terminal on this power block (circled in green) with a M6 bolt. I attached the main fuse and ring terminal to the end of the wire too, just not in the pic.

I ran the wire behind the passenger side carpet and under all the side plastics until it entered under the rear seats. I already removed the OE sub and cargo tray using the thread I linked above.

I attached the ground wire to the OE bolt on the floor. For the ignition source, I found the thicker pink wire in this main harness that turns on when you walk near the truck or open the doors. It is quick to turn off when you leave the truck so it's fine with me. It works the same as a hardwired radar detector using the power behind the mirror.

The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other. I also had to extend them a little with the extra ignition wire from the power kit. Then I reinstalled the OE sub and plugged in the power, ignition, and RCA wires to the JL sub. It powered right up!

To hold the sub in place, I cut a big piece of polyethylene foam I had around and wedged it next to the sub. I also zip tied a tool bag in the empty space so I can still use the storage space without scratching the metal floor.

The last step was to install the remote knob. I wasn't sure if I needed this at first but it makes a huge difference for adjusting the sub while driving based on what you are listening too. I just ran the wire under the floor matt and into the center console storage. I then drilled a hole in the aftermarket organizer to mount the knob. Now I have a stealth way of making adjustments!

After fine tuning the settings to sound the best I laned on this. I'm not sure if it is because I mixed up the positive and negative when connecting the RCA to speaker wire adapter but it sounds a lot better with the polarity set to 180deg.

This sub makes a HUGE difference in the overall experience for all music I listen too in my R1T! With the bass knob set halfway all of the time, it adds just a little more bass over the OE sub with a clean sound, not obnoxious at all. If I turn the knob up to 3/4 then the hits really hard and fills the cabin nicely. It's nothing too crazy but IMO this is exactly what the Meridian system was missing.

 

[Stargazer]

Looks to be an awesome job. Just two questions: did you leave the OEM subwoofer working too or just the new 10" sub. Also, did you add any sound deadening to the metal cavity under the back seat? I'll be tackling audio upgrade soon. Thanks

 

[Revin]

Looks to be an awesome job. Just two questions: did you leave the OEM subwoofer working too or just the new 10" sub. Also, did you add any sound deadening to the metal cavity under the back seat? I'll be tackling audio upgrade soon. Thanks

Thanks! I did leave the OEM sub working. I didn’t do any sound deadening.

 

[Stargazer]

Thanks! I did leave the OEM sub working. I didn’t do any sound deadening.

 

[Stargazer]

I appreciate all your support throughout the thread, you have helped a lot of people on this forum.
Today, after I removed the tub from under the back seat I discovered that the OEM subwoofer sounds better just from removing the tub, go figure (better air movement).
I plan to add a 10" subwoofer similar to your setup. Being new to this do you think adding sound deadening to the metal box would improve things even more? Did you not add sound deadening so you could return everything to stock condition? Seems like it would be tough to remove once applied.

 

[Revin]

I appreciate all your support throughout the thread, you have helped a lot of people on this forum.
Today, after I removed the tub from under the back seat I discovered that the OEM subwoofer sounds better just from removing the tub, go figure (better air movement).
I plan to add a 10" subwoofer similar to your setup. Being new to this do you think adding sound deadening to the metal box would improve things even more? Did you not add sound deadening so you could return everything to stock condition? Seems like it would be tough to remove once applied.

You’re welcome! I’m glad to help and share my experiences. I didn’t notice any annoying rattling when the sub is turned up since the truck interior is thick and well built, so I don’t feel the need to add sound deadening. Way different than my Subaru in high school with a 12” sub! Also to keep the truck stock and save time and money is a plus. This whole install was only about 6 hours.

 

[Stargazer]

I wanted to add a little more bass in my R1T but really didn't want to modify anything that I couldn't return to stock. On other cars and trucks I've had, I am always down to cut drill into parts since you can easily buy replacement parts online. But that's not the case for Rivian! I landed on this 10" JL powered sub from Crutchfield with their 8awg power kit. I also got the JL remote and RCA to speaker wire adapter.

First off, big shoutout to @Mohelp for his install thread here! He has some great info on power connection, wire routing, and OE plastic removal!

I poked the power wire though one of the free tentacles on this gromet and connected the wire to the free screw terminal on this power block (circled in green) with a M6 bolt. I attached the main fuse and ring terminal to the end of the wire too, just not in the pic.

I ran the wire behind the passenger side carpet and under all the side plastics until it entered under the rear seats. I already removed the OE sub and cargo tray using the thread I linked above.

I attached the ground wire to the OE bolt on the floor. For the ignition source, I found the thicker pink wire in this main harness that turns on when you walk near the truck or open the doors. It is quick to turn off when you leave the truck so it's fine with me. It works the same as a hardwired radar detector using the power behind the mirror.

The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other. I also had to extend them a little with the extra ignition wire from the power kit. Then I reinstalled the OE sub and plugged in the power, ignition, and RCA wires to the JL sub. It powered right up!

To hold the sub in place, I cut a big piece of polyethylene foam I had around and wedged it next to the sub. I also zip tied a tool bag in the empty space so I can still use the storage space without scratching the metal floor.

The last step was to install the remote knob. I wasn't sure if I needed this at first but it makes a huge difference for adjusting the sub while driving based on what you are listening too. I just ran the wire under the floor matt and into the center console storage. I then drilled a hole in the aftermarket organizer to mount the knob. Now I have a stealth way of making adjustments!

After fine tuning the settings to sound the best I laned on this. I'm not sure if it is because I mixed up the positive and negative when connecting the RCA to speaker wire adapter but it sounds a lot better with the polarity set to 180deg.

This sub makes a HUGE difference in the overall experience for all music I listen too in my R1T! With the bass knob set halfway all of the time, it adds just a little more bass over the OE sub with a clean sound, not obnoxious at all. If I turn the knob up to 3/4 then the hits really hard and fills the cabin nicely. It's nothing too crazy but IMO this is exactly what the Meridian system was missing.

 

[Stargazer]

Revin, I went through pre-test motions today and removed the pertinent parts following your build. Everything, but one step, is doable for a person, like me, without professional knowledge.
How in the heck did you get the 8 gauge wire thru the rubber tube of one of the free tentacles on the passenger side gromet. Are all those rubber tentacles open for pass thru? Did you use lube or a special wire puller as seen in the pic? Thanks

 

[Revin]

Revin, I went through pre-test motions today and removed the pertinent parts following your build. Everything, but one step, is doable for a person, like me, without professional knowledge.
How in the heck did you get the 8 gauge wire thru the rubber tube of one of the free tentacles on the passenger side gromet. Are all those rubber tentacles open for pass thru? Did you use lube or a special wire puller as seen in the pic? Thanks

Good question! I did have to cut a hole in the end of the grommet and I did lube the end of the wire. It also helps if you pull the whole grommet out first so you can pass the wire through while sitting in the frunk.

 

[Stargazer]

Good question! I did have to cut a hole in the end of the grommet and I did lube the end of the wire. It also helps if you pull the whole grommet out first so you can pass the wire through while sitting in the frunk.

 

[Stargazer]

Awesome, thank you

 

[Rivianready]

Revin, I really want to do this to my R1S but it has a different second row- it moves to allow passengers into the third row- so I could not locate it there. There is a large below floor storage in the very back. I think I would put it there. My real concern is all this talk about the 12v batteries failing. I’m worried that the 12v batteries in the Rivian won’t last with the additional load. Any thoughts/concerns on this?

 

[Revin]

Revin, I really want to do this to my R1S but it has a different second row- it moves to allow passengers into the third row- so I could not locate it there. There is a large below floor storage in the very back. I think I would put it there. My real concern is all this talk about the 12v batteries failing. I’m worried that the 12v batteries in the Rivian won’t last with the additional load. Any thoughts/concerns on this?

I’ve seen a few of R1S install threads where they just replace the original sub since it is a standard 10”. It’s way cleaner and saves space. I have no concerns about this harming the 12v battery. It’s not that much load.

 

[rickmacc]

Revin, I went through pre-test motions today and removed the pertinent parts following your build. Everything, but one step, is doable for a person, like me, without professional knowledge.
How in the heck did you get the 8 gauge wire thru the rubber tube of one of the free tentacles on the passenger side gromet. Are all those rubber tentacles open for pass thru? Did you use lube or a special wire puller as seen in the pic? Thanks

FWIW, I pushed a screw driver from the frunk side so that I could get a razor on the inside and cut it. I then fed the wire through from the frunk side and pulled it. I couldn’t get my hands up in there enough to push the wire through from the cabin side.

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