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As an electrical engineer, that was my thought too. But I bought a trailer that simply connects the battery directly to the trailer plug, and it works fine. You can probably get away just fine without a real charge controller between the vehicle and the trailer battery. Maybe a lithium battery...

What’s the question? 🙂

You can put it in show and tell mode to test the running/parking lights. Then I just usually use the hazards to test the brake and signals. On a 4 or 7 pin connector, the brake and the turn signal is the exact same wire and exact same bulb. If turn works, brake works. Using the hazards let you...

I used these ones. While the tow mirrors are of nice solid construction, they do shake. They shake because the plastic Rivian mirror housing deflect a little. I think any tow mirrors with a single arm and two clamps will be the same. I tried mounting on both the top and bottom of the Rivian...

Sure, but not if the sub is inside the plastic tub.

Haha, I don’t think so. PWM works fine if we’re talking about a few watts through a buck converter, but that’s not how high-power power conversion works. Anything converting DC at this sort of power level is using ZCS or ZVS to keep losses down. And if you’re using a power conversion topology...

I'm not a power electronics engineer specifically, but this feels somewhat wrong. It's not like they're just using a bridge rectifier, a cap, and feeding that directly to the battery. They still need full power conversion to control exact voltage and current requested by the vehicles for various...

It depends what you mean by control. The vehicle does *dictate* what power comes to it from the L3 EVSE, but it relies on the EVSE to do what it asks. This is different than L2, where the charger is actually on the vehicle.

For V2V maybe? For normal L3 charging, no.

Not technically an inverter, but similar-ish looking power electronics. I’m reasonably confident that the two large contacts on the L3 plug are basically just routed straight to the battery. There’s a contactor in line for protection, but no power electronics. When charging from a DCFC station...

I take it the JL sub couldn’t be made to fit where the factory sub goes?

180+kWh battery. I don’t think they’ll do that, but whatever truck ships with that and decent charging speed will get my money. I love my R1, but it’s painful towing longer distance.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/rivian-abrp-integration-working-if-youre-motivated-%F0%9F%99%82.11731/post-271904

Do you have daily preconditioning set in the phone app? That might be what’s returning it back all the time. I had to adjust my preconditioning schedule now that the weather changed.

Back in the old days ABRP used to just have a little + and - button to allow you to manually update the SoC as you drove. It still was able to build an accurate vehicle model that way over time. A live and automated version of that (this integration) is certainly a lot better. Mine seems to...

The bolts shouldn't be missing. But surface rust on a steel clip-on nut isn't a big deal.

I’d worry about the missing bolts, but not about those rusty nut clip things.

My guess is that some of the baseline IP has been pulled in. But I don’t think the Rivian route planning is ABRP exactly.

There isn’t as much utility here anymore. The Rivian route planner in the car is very good. (No surprise, as they bought ABRP) When I first set this up, that wasn’t the case.

How is level 2 home charging relevant in a L3 charging thread? If I'm charging overnight at home, what do I care? (It's 11kW though, because that's as fast as it can be without forking out for L3 at home).