R1T dual standard vs R1T dual large

[NoMoreGas71]

Need help! These are the two I’m considering. Not sure which one to go with. I don’t make too many long trips, but the extra range would be nice. I like the idea of the smaller tires on the dual standard (cheaper to replace too). I like having the option of purchasing the performance package on the dual large for the 3.4 second 0-60 time and I do like the looks of the 22” wheels with the blackout package. Is the ride quite a bit worse on the 22’s? Also the dual large had the high regen option which I like. But I’ve also read the LFP batteries in the standard range are more bullet proof and charge faster. Pros and cons to both and I’m having a tough time deciding!! Any input would be appreciated.

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[iamnid]

If you only occasionally go on long trips, get the standard. You save a bunch, the 20s look great, and it's a good roadtripper anyway. I do a handful of long trips every year and the large battery would only have saved me a minimal amount of time anyway. That's what I did. No regrets at all.

 

[NoMoreGas71]

If you only occasionally go on long trips, get the standard. You save a bunch, the 20s look great, and it's a good roadtripper anyway. I do a handful of long trips every year and the large battery would only have saved me a minimal amount of time anyway. That's what I did. No regrets at all.

Thanks for your input!

 

[skyguyscott]

The super-car-like acceleration is a real kick for a limited time, but then, if you're like me, once the thrill gets old and once you realize the life it takes out of your expensive tires, you'll wonder what else you could have done with that extra $5000.

Ditto on the high regen and the toll it takes on your tires; what you gain in extra range will not come close to what you spend on new tires.

Now, you're not looking at the max pack, which is what I got because one of the use cases I am looking at is towing a camper, eventually to most of our National Parks. (towing cuts range ~50%) The max pack also will charge to say, 200 miles range faster because the battery will still be under 50% capacity. The closer you get to 100%, the slower the battery charges. But you will extend the life of your battery if you keep it around 50-80% -- you can research why on the web. Being in Atlanta, you probably won't experience the 25-30% drop in range that occurs in cold weather, especially when running the heater, but if you plan on traveling north in the winter, you will.

The disadvantages of the max pack besides the extra upfront cost is the added weight in your vehicle will decrease it's rated load capacity and you will take a hit on your efficiency from hauling the extra weight. Your tire life will be shorter likewise, and braking distance will increase.

The battery modules are identical in standard, long range and max, just more or less of them. Having less means more space for radiant cooling, making for happier cells. The charging curves are essentially the same, but as I understand it, since the standard has fewer modules, you will get to 100% a bit faster, but not that much faster than max pack, because of temps and the curve. To be clear, you get more miles faster in max pack, but slower percentages. But if you charge overnight at home, it's all irrelevant anyway.

The 22" sport wheels will give you super fun handling, but a noticeably harsher ride. The 20" all season seem to give the most comfortable ride. the All-terrain are the noisiest and in-between comfort.

 

[CANCERDOC]

The super-car-like acceleration is a real kick for a limited time, but then, if you're like me, once the thrill gets old and once you realize the life it takes out of your expensive tires, you'll wonder what else you could have done with that extra $5000.

Ditto on the high regen and the toll it takes on your tires; what you gain in extra range will not come close to what you spend on new tires.

Now, you're not looking at the max pack, which is what I got because one of the use cases I am looking at is towing a camper, eventually to most of our National Parks. (towing cuts range ~50%) The max pack also will charge to say, 200 miles range faster because the battery will still be under 50% capacity. The closer you get to 100%, the slower the battery charges. But you will extend the life of your battery if you keep it around 50-80% -- you can research why on the web. Being in Atlanta, you probably won't experience the 25-30% drop in range that occurs in cold weather, especially when running the heater, but if you plan on traveling north in the winter, you will.

The disadvantages of the max pack besides the extra upfront cost is the added weight in your vehicle will decrease it's rated load capacity and you will take a hit on your efficiency from hauling the extra weight. Your tire life will be shorter likewise, and braking distance will increase.

The battery modules are identical in standard, long range and max, just more or less of them. Having less means more space for radiant cooling, making for happier cells. The charging curves are essentially the same, but as I understand it, since the standard has fewer modules, you will get to 100% a bit faster, but not that much faster than max pack, because of temps and the curve. To be clear, you get more miles faster in max pack, but slower percentages. But if you charge overnight at home, it's all irrelevant anyway.

The 22" sport wheels will give you super fun handling, but a noticeably harsher ride. The 20" all season seem to give the most comfortable ride. the All-terrain are the noisiest and in-between comfort.

The standard pack now (since gen2) has LFP chemistry and can charge to 100% without deterioration.

What you said about the batteries is true for all NMC chemistry batteries (all gen1, gen 2 large and max).

I have a gen1 large with 22’s and the dual performance. If I had to do it again I would have gotten 20’s for better ride quality and swapped for all seasons once the AT’s wore out to recover the range.

Whether the performance upgrade is worth it is up to you. It does gives slightly more power in all purpose mode (4.1 vs 4.5s 0-60) but you must use sport mode to open up all the power and that forces low suspension mode which further ruins the ride quality.

 

[Rade]

We looked at both the Dual Standard and Dual Large, and opted for the Dual Large. The added range is one perk, but the Dynamic Glass Roof (requires the energy to change to opacity of the glass) requires the Large battery. Though we live in RI, and have only used it a hand full of times since taking delivery, we're planning trips south where the sun will be a larger factor.

 

[carsly]

Since no one has mentioned it, if you live in a cold weather climate get the Large pack. The LFP batteries in the standard pack are having all kinds of issues in colder weather including highly inaccurate battery capacity measurement which is an issue with LFP packs in general since the voltage doesn't change much with energy usage and voltage changes are how most battery management systems estimate remaining capacity.

I'm in NJ and it get sub-freezing here for weeks on end. Prefer having the NMC "Large" pack that I charge to 70% daily and nice to know I've got another 30% available if needed. Downside is the "Large" pack of 109kwh is really a medium pack since the Gen 1 large pack had 131kwh of capacity.

If you live down south, I believe the electrochromatic roof is only available on the Large and Max packs so that's another reason to go with the Large. Also the standard does NOT have front recovery points if that matters to you.

As for 20's or 22's. You can opt for either on the Large pack. I went with the 22's for range and style but on my other vehicles I have 20's and the ride is definitely better on 20's since you get more give from the tire which compensates quite a bit for Rivian's poor suspension tuning. Drove a Gen 1 R1S on 20's on cobblestone streets in Manhattan and it was quite smooth. My Gen 2 on 22's on paved, potholed, roads is a lot rougher even in comfort suspension and standard ride height. If your roads are generally in good condition then the 22's are great for range. If you have poor roads like we do in the Northeast, 20's provide better ride quality and the range hit has no practical impact, even on a road trip, since you'll be hopping the same chargers in all likelihood as the extra range of the 22's doesn't typically gain you enough to skip a charger.

Otherwise, the Standard pack is the best value IMHO. Just have to manage the charge level a bit more closely since sub 20% it can just drop to zero almost instantly. Flip side is charging it to 100% a couple times a month is actually better for the battery management system.

PS I opted for the post-purchase Performance upgrade. Would not purchase again. No real difference in the drive modes and acceleration improvement of 1 second 0-60 only possible in Sport mode at the lowest suspension setting - at which point it feels like you have no suspension at all. From seat of the pants, not much of a difference in 0-60 in 4.5 vs. 3.5 (ideal conditions) in a large, heavy SUV like the R1.

 

[NoMoreGas71]

Great information everyone!! Seriously greatly appreciated! I live down south in Georgia so cold weather isn’t that much of an issue. Electrochromic glass roof would be nice for the hot summers. I’m all about a comfortable ride so 20’s sound like a winner for that. I’m still on the fence! Maybe I’ll drive a truck with 20’s and 22’s and see how much of a difference it makes.

 

[cthelan]

Large. Living with both and the LFP is a pain. Simply too small and range is very effected by temps and estimates vary wildly.

 

[hammick]

If you can swing it get a max. You will only cry once.

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