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On 21" Tires . . . .

C.R. Rivian

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I have read that the 21" tires are the sweet spot for range on the R1T, and moving to the 20" tires can cost up to 15% (I believe that's what I saw on these forums)

I also vaguely remember reading that the 21" tire that Rivian was using was a custom (or at least fairly uncommon) size.

Are these things true? If I wanted to go with 21" tires to maximize Range (appearances be damned!) am I going to be able to find a good set of winter tires (say Blizzaks or the like) to swap to come November? Does anyone know the actual size of the 21" tires they're using?
I'm going with 22's having in the past had to wait more than a couple days for matching an unusual tire on a former vehicle....I donot want to be struggling with constrained supply if I need a replacement tire. There are lots of 22's, virtually no 21" alternatives. Mostly road, not real bondocking, so not going with 20's.
 

BradSomrak

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I'm going with 22's having in the past had to wait more than a couple days for matching an unusual tire on a former vehicle....I donot want to be struggling with constrained supply if I need a replacement tire. There are lots of 22's, virtually no 21" alternatives. Mostly road, not real bondocking, so not going with 20's.
For what it‘s worth, I have asked customer service about the 21” ”compact spare“ tire. I was told it is a full size spare after inflation. I asked if it is restricted it miles or time, much as a traditional donut would be, and I was specifically told no, there is no mileage or time limitation for the “compact spare.” I asked if the compact spare could be left on the R1S for an extended period was told yes. I asked specifically about the scenario you mention - a flat or blowout and the need for a replacement - and was told the compact spare would be “just fine” to use until Service was able to procure a spare - even if that was a week or more.

I have no idea how accurate any of that is; take it for what it is worth. I’m also not suggesting anything re: 21” v. 22”. Merely passing along the info for others that are concerned about the 21” tires and potential flats/replacements.
 
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R1Tr8000

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Shipping disruption is a thing now. I can't get the kitchen sink I'd prefer, plumbing-repair parts until 5 months later, hard-drive gagetry, cute cameras, recording gear or a picky-cat's cat food for weeks/months already.

I have the 20" AT on the order for that reason. For all other driving reasons, I'd rather have the 21".

But when the 20" ATs are done, I'm one of the guys looking to find 20" AllSeason OEM replacements that don't exist yet. But they might. I think that's more likely than tire makers starting up a line of 21" AllSeasons.

Anyway,
I'd rather have choice than need to go looking for something close to ok or good enough.

I read a proof-with-pictures comment that a 20" AllSeason replacement wouldn't be that much different in range than the OEM 21". I'm holding on to that memory, hoping for more sidewall & near-optimum range by delivery season. If my range is going to take a hit for tire availability, there's still the max-pack battery to make it tolerable. I suspect it'll be quite tolerable.

I still expect & hope there'll be a direct OEM 20"AS option by the time a white, off-road max package shows up under my oak trees. It's already adventurous being old & living on the fringes of civilization with its anti-taxers & their "we're proud of our bad roads" interest group(s).
Actually..I think you’re right on the money.

With a Max Pack on order..and a trailer to tow in warmer months..I’ve got a ton of time to decide. But after a lot of thought on this it’s reasonably likely I’ll end up with both the 20” and 21” wheels. My only decision will be which to order with the truck ‘as delivered’. Might depend on the time of year since I drive on winter roads a lot..and this truck being a monster weight..will need actual, real snow tires.

All that said I am considering the 20” first - a change from my initial plan. I’m considering driving the 20” tires a few weeks, towing and not. Then I will replace that tire with either the 1) Scorpion AS Plus 3 or the 2) Scorpion Verde AS Plus II. As of a month ago..they both showed availability on TireRack. Both are 275/60R20..basically equaling the same diameter as the 21” Rivian-specific tire. Both are 115H rated. They were within $3 of each other. These give a taller sidewall than the Rivian 21”. These are non-Riv, non-elec tires and weigh a bit more than the 37lb Rivian 21” but not hugely. These would likely be a more durable, reliable tire while driving dirt roads, light trails, etc vs. the Rivian 21”.

I would then mount one of these on the 20” wheel and drive the same exact roads, speeds, mountain passes, destinations, regional towing, etc and compare the (pavement) range to the Rivian 20” AT. If I like the results then I will strongly consider a 2nd set of the 20” wheels instead of the 21” (naturally CS will not give me an answer re. a 2nd wheelset availability).
 

BoltEVowner

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Actually..I think you’re right on the money.

With a Max Pack on order..and a trailer to tow in warmer months..I’ve got a ton of time to decide. But after a lot of thought on this it’s reasonably likely I’ll end up with both the 20” and 21” wheels. My only decision will be which to order with the truck ‘as delivered’. Might depend on the time of year since I drive on winter roads a lot..and this truck being a monster weight..will need actual, real snow tires.

All that said I am considering the 20” first - a change from my initial plan. I’m considering driving the 20” tires a few weeks, towing and not. Then I will replace that tire with either the 1) Scorpion AS Plus 3 or the 2) Scorpion Verde AS Plus II. As of a month ago..they both showed availability on TireRack. Both are 275/60R20..basically equaling the same diameter as the 21” Rivian-specific tire. Both are 115H rated. They were within $3 of each other. These give a taller sidewall than the Rivian 21”. These are non-Riv, non-elec tires and weigh a bit more than the 37lb Rivian 21” but not hugely. These would likely be a more durable, reliable tire while driving dirt roads, light trails, etc vs. the Rivian 21”.

I would then mount one of these on the 20” wheel and drive the same exact roads, speeds, mountain passes, destinations, regional towing, etc and compare the (pavement) range to the Rivian 20” AT. If I like the results then I will strongly consider a 2nd set of the 20” wheels instead of the 21” (naturally CS will not give me an answer re. a 2nd wheelset availability).
I was thinking about doing exactly the same. I have asked CS on chat before, told it was a popular topic, but Rivian does not recommend anything other than the three tire options sold by Pirelli for Rivian. Wonder if they can void your warranty if one does exactly this...replaces the 20" AT tires with TireRack Pirelli AS Scorpion tires??? A big question. Wonder if anyone else has received an answer from Rivian support?
 

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I’ve debated on this topic a bit, but sticking with the 21s for the reasons listed here. Range and on road performance, plus the ability to remove the plastic covers make it a win for me. I’m just hoping Rivian, or some other party can come up with new center caps with the covers removed.
 

R1Tr8000

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I was thinking about doing exactly the same. I have asked CS on chat before, told it was a popular topic, but Rivian does not recommend anything other than the three tire options sold by Pirelli for Rivian. Wonder if they can void your warranty if one does exactly this...replaces the 20" AT tires with TireRack Pirelli AS Scorpion tires??? A big question. Wonder if anyone else has received an answer from Rivian support?
Meant to add: If I am forced into the 21” set for long trip towing (again with Max Pack) I’ll have both the onboard full size spare..and a 2nd unmounted spare which I’ll buy right away. Will carry that either in the pickup bed or on top of the trailer, or maybe on the rear ladder.
 

emoore

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Meant to add: If I am forced into the 21” set for long trip towing (again with Max Pack) I’ll have both the onboard full size spare..and a 2nd unmounted spare which I’ll buy right away. Will carry that either in the pickup bed or on top of the trailer, or maybe on the rear ladder.
This is exactly why I keep changing my mind about the 20 or 21. I like the looks of the 20" much better but the range hit is concerning. I do plan on pulling a trailer but probably only 4-6 times a year so for 90% of my driving the 20" will be fine. Very interested in 20" towing performance.
 

Sgt Beavis

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This is exactly why I keep changing my mind about the 20 or 21. I like the looks of the 20" much better but the range hit is concerning. I do plan on pulling a trailer but probably only 4-6 times a year so for 90% of my driving the 20" will be fine. Very interested in 20" towing performance.

Don’t forget that the 20” ATs are 3peaks and snowflake rated. That’s kinda important to the two of us.

As for me, I do a lot of off roading. I’m just going to live with the range hit and try to modify my driving habits on long trips. Fortunately most of my in state trips only go from Erie to Breckenridge or Fairplay. That’s well within the R1T’s range and there are fast DC chargers available in both locations.
 

Acoustic71

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I have read that the 21" tires are the sweet spot for range on the R1T, and moving to the 20" tires can cost up to 15% (I believe that's what I saw on these forums)

I also vaguely remember reading that the 21" tire that Rivian was using was a custom (or at least fairly uncommon) size.

Are these things true? If I wanted to go with 21" tires to maximize Range (appearances be damned!) am I going to be able to find a good set of winter tires (say Blizzaks or the like) to swap to come November? Does anyone know the actual size of the 21" tires they're using?
I mentioned in another thread the following relative information:
"My two cents. I live on the central Oregon coast and commuted ~ 56 miles each way to Salem, OR until the pandemic made my position available for telecommute. I drove a 2018 Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription, with Perrelli Scorpion Verde All Season 275/40 R21 tires. My XC90 had a GRV of 6635 lbs and I got 36K out of my first set. I sold the car at just over 60K on the odometer and there was plenty of tread left. The route I drove goes through the Oregon Coastal Range, increasing to ~ 660ft elevation. A good part of the drive is through heavy forest, which then turns to open meadows. In other words, lots of opportunity for dramatic weather changes. Oregon rains a LOT so streaming water or pools on the road can be just as hazardous as ice or compact snow. The XC90 handled it with ease.

I had one extremely white-knuckle ride on a crisp morning (just below 28* F) when I hit the downhill slope coming out of the forested area into wide open farm land. I had to blink twice before I realized the mile or so in front of me was a solid sheet of ice across both lanes of travel. I just slowed down and was fine, making sure not to make any sudden moves on the steering wheel and certainly avoiding the brakes. Out of nowhere behind came a late model sedan traveling at a very rate of speed - followed by SIX law enforcement vehicles (Oregon State Police, County Sheriff, Tribal Police) all in hot pursuit. I managed to get out of the way without ending up in the deep ditch on both sides of the road, but man I was not happy."

The point I am/was making is that while the Volvo XC90 is not a Rivian R1T, the GRV weights are pretty close. The route I was driving, Hwy 101 to OR 18 to OR 22 is often called the deadliest route in Oregon and for good reason. The road suffers year-round from the extreme weather and is two lane with no barrier for the bulk of the drive. Lot's of head-on and t-bone opportunities for the adventurous, along with tourists who don't know the road and/or how to drive safely in bad weather conditions.

I'm going to stick with what is being offered on the 21" tires, based on my own experience. I am more than willing to eat humble pie if it turns out I am wrong, provided of course that I survive the experience. :cool:

Edit for grammar and spelling.....
 
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Acoustic71

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Meant to add: If I am forced into the 21” set for long trip towing (again with Max Pack) I’ll have both the onboard full size spare..and a 2nd unmounted spare which I’ll buy right away. Will carry that either in the pickup bed or on top of the trailer, or maybe on the rear ladder.
Sounds like a great plan. If I do tow, it will be either a 28ft Airstream or the new Living Vehicle all-electric rig that looks amazing, but comes with break-the-bank pricing. I also need to consider that the trailer may very well be our home at some point.

There is a lot to consider....
 

mwexler2

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For those of you more familiar with driving in snow. I live in SF Bay Area, so day to day I will not encounter snow. I occasionally (maybe once or twice a year), will go to Tahoe or Shasta or some other place with snow, in conditions where snow chains may be required (I don’t generally know for sure when I leave). When chains are required, will the AT tires satisfy the requirement? Or will I need chains to satisfy the CHP/stay safe?
If I need chains, what kind are recommended? Do I need them for 2 tires or 4.
From https://dot.ca.gov/travel/winter-driving-tips/chain-requirements
If I have 4-wheel-drive, do I need to carry chains?
Yes. Even though weather conditions may not warrant the use of chains on 4-wheel-drive vehicles at a particular time, to enter a chain control area, you must have a set of chains (for one drive axle) for your vehicle in your possession. If conditions worsen or you have trouble controlling your vehicle, you must stop and install the chains.​
And
If I have snow tires, do I need to carry chains?
Yes. Even though weather conditions may not warrant the use of chains on passenger vehicles equipped with snow tires at a particular time, to enter a chain control area, you must have a set of chains (one pair) for your vehicle in your possession. If conditions worsen or you have trouble controlling your vehicle, you must stop and install the chains.​
And
If I have snow tires on a heavy-duty commercial vehicle, do I need to carry chains?
Yes. There is no exemption for heavy-duty commercial vehicles (over 6,500 pounds gross weight) equipped with snow tires. Chains must be installed on heavy-duty commercial vehicles whenever chain controls are posted.​
So it looks like I will need to have chains or some kind of traction control devices but may or may not be required to use them.
 
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Acoustic71

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For those of you more familiar with driving in snow. I live in SF Bay Area, so day to day I will not encounter snow. I occasionally (maybe once or twice a year), will go to Tahoe or Shasta or some other place with snow, in conditions where snow chains may be required (I don’t generally know for sure when I leave). When chains are required, will the AT tires satisfy the requirement? Or will I need chains to satisfy the CHP/stay safe?
If I need chains, what kind are recommended? Do I need them for 2 tires or 4.
From https://dot.ca.gov/travel/winter-driving-tips/chain-requirements
If I have 4-wheel-drive, do I need to carry chains?
Yes. Even though weather conditions may not warrant the use of chains on 4-wheel-drive vehicles at a particular time, to enter a chain control area, you must have a set of chains (for one drive axle) for your vehicle in your possession. If conditions worsen or you have trouble controlling your vehicle, you must stop and install the chains.​
And
If I have snow tires, do I need to carry chains?
Yes. Even though weather conditions may not warrant the use of chains on passenger vehicles equipped with snow tires at a particular time, to enter a chain control area, you must have a set of chains (one pair) for your vehicle in your possession. If conditions worsen or you have trouble controlling your vehicle, you must stop and install the chains.​
And
If I have snow tires on a heavy-duty commercial vehicle, do I need to carry chains?
Yes. There is no exemption for heavy-duty commercial vehicles (over 6,500 pounds gross weight) equipped with snow tires. Chains must be installed on heavy-duty commercial vehicles whenever chain controls are posted.​
So it looks like I will need to have chains or some kind of traction control devices but may or may not be required to use them.
I know that some here will find the above rules for California and Nevada overkill, but then they probably have not driven through the wild conditions that can occur in the Lake Tahoe region. I have lived north of Seattle, WA for two years, Massachusetts for ten years, Lake Tahoe for 9 years, and now Oregon. Lake Tahoe had the most difficult driving conditions I have ever experienced.

On top of the tough rules noted above, the state troopers in the Lake Tahoe region will often cut off access (even if you meet the rules above) to "locals only". I got caught in one of those one year even though I lived on the North Shore of Lake Tahoe. The reason they wouldn't let me through? My license said PO Box XXXX, King Beach, CA.
The CHP trooper was from the Sacramento station and did not know that their is no US Postal service to homes at Lake Tahoe (at least there wasn't when I lived there). Everyone had PO boxes! LOL
 

LeoH

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I drove the R1T on a wet track, and did some things that I will never do in my own vehicles and the things never even budged. So I am not going to worry about snow tires. I live in Illinois where we get a fair amount of snow and cold temps, and I never had issues with AWD/equivalent vehicles during everyday driving.

Now, if you plan to go rogue or off-roading, that is an area that I know nothing about unfortunately and I can't be of any use :)
 

lostpacket

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I am really torn what to do about the tires. I live in a place where true snow tires are a must and even run with studded snow tires because my driveway is a steep hill of pure ice much of the winter.

But I dont offroad and would generally be fine with regular road tires (and prefer the range). But the lack of snow tire options for 21" makes me nervous and I currently have the AT 20"s configured.

Would love to hear any thoughts y'all have.
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