New R1S Dual Performance Max AT Range issues

[LiamJacobs]

One thing you might check is whether when in All purpose mode, the rear motor is off most of the time (the auto conserve mode). It is easy to check by looking @ the drive mode display and it will show an animation on whether just the front wheels or both front and rear wheels are getting power. The reason I suggest this is we picked up our 2024 Dual Max and immediately took it on a 800 mile road trip. We found a bug where the rear motor never disconnected at any speed or acceleration. It affected our efficiency quite a bit. We took it into service when we got back and they claimed nothing was wrong but low and behold, somehow the rear motor disconnect worked perfectly and our efficiency went up by about .3 miles/kwh.

I did verify that the rear motor was disconnecting when it was able/not required.

Maybe Rivian needs a setting which either shows both EPA and a better guess-o-meter range on the dash. Or just the GOM number as default, so new drivers/owners don't get ambushed.

Or like on my parents Chevy bolt, it has a min/max; so on my Rivian like 225-370 depending on usage.

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[CarlM408]

Or like on my parents Chevy bolt, it has a min/max; so on my Rivian like 225-370 depending on usage.

Yeah there's ways to communicate/show this information better.

Like, when I first got my R1T it hurt my brain that the NAV would say, let's say 100 miles to destination and 50 remaining when I'll arrive, yet the dash would say 200 miles of 'range' available lol. Does not add up, does not compute, how can one subsystem know the truth and yet another is totally lost

 

[LiamJacobs]

Yeah there's ways to communicate/show this information better.

Like, when I first got my R1T it hurt my brain that the NAV would say, let's say 100 miles to destination and 50 remaining when I'll arrive, yet the dash would say 200 miles of 'range' available lol. Does not add up, does not compute, how can one subsystem know the truth and yet another is totally lost

This was by far my biggest head shaker.

 

[ja_kub_sz]

@LiamJacobs sorry to hear about your experience.

I drive roughly 30k miles a year for work and have a now soon to be out of warranty Rivian R1T.

I'll put on 300-400 miles on a bad day (125/125/80/80 trip distances).

70mph is a must, and my own calculations is a lost of 2% per mile above that (80mph nets 20% loss).

I'm not holding my breath, but am probably gonna buy G1 21's for my new G2 R1T for my cold weather driving hoping for more range.

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

I don’t understand how people spend money on these cars without doing research upfront.

 

[Rividiculous]

I get the expected range, almost on the nose. I was astounded.

But my use case is probably pretty damn close to the EPA test which is unusual, I know. I rarely have the opportunity to drive 75mph and even more rarely am driving where I can really enjoy the quick acceleration.

ICE vehicles generally don’t get their advertised mileage—but few people notice as they don’t worry about range so much.

 

[Rividiculous]

There is only 1 drive mode on the Dual Performance Max “all purpose“ I specifically asked when picking it up about “conserve mode” and was told the dual motors do this automatically now, no switching.

If it’s a performance model it should also have Sport mode (and maybe sand?). If it’s a “regular” dual motor, all purpose, off-road, and snow.

 

[HaveBlue]

Dual Max performance here. Just did a 1000 mile trip in near-perfect conditions (500 each way); dry, level, steady medium temp ~80-85'. Basically controlled variables on everything with a 75mph cruising speed for 98% of the way, best possible scenario. It's the range test that me and @DuoRivians dreamed about.

2.36 miles per kwh consumption which means that if you multiply by the 141kwh capacity, that's 332 miles from 100% to 0%. So now I know, and you should too, best case scenario at highway speeds of 75mph will hit you for a solid 20%.

Go slower, it will improve, and go faster, it will get much worse.

This is what I get as well though I have 22s so I lose 50-60 miles of range going 75mph. At 65 mph per hour I get epa of 2.7 mi/kwh. It's really worth charging to 100% for road trips where down time allows. I can go from Northern Los Angeles to downtown San Diego, drive around all weekend and drive back on one charge still having 40 miles left.

 

[ndmiller]

My commute to work is about 30 miles each way. I consistently am above 3mkw even with the highway portion at 75. I'm on 21's, check tire pressures regularly, regen is on high and drive on the conservative side from acceleration standpoint. I also pre condition on home AC before I leave so that's a big hit I avoid. Also in a hilly area in north atlanta, so lots of regen time.

 

[LiamJacobs]

This is what I get as well though I have 22s so I lose 50-60 miles of range going 75mph. At 65 mph per hour I get epa of 2.7 mi/kwh. It's really worth charging to 100% for road trips where down time allows. I can go from Northern Los Angeles to downtown San Diego, drive around all weekend and drive back on one charge still having 40 miles left.

Mine is showing a lifetime of 1.91mi/kwh atm. (988miles) Talked to a guide today about other issues, and mentioned this, he felt it was abnormal and should be higher.

 

[Proxy]

Efficiency is always worse for the first couple thousand miles on new tires.

 

[Scoiatael]

Every vehicle has range issues if you go by EPA. My old F150 said 18 mpg on freeway and I'd average 11. The same applies to EVs. There is no way you are getting 400 miles of range at a reasonable speed with the max pack no matter what tires you have. I opted for the large pack with the new 22" range wheels, and I know I'm not going to get anywhere near 330 miles. 280 is going to be my guess.

Personally when I do a road trip I will go between 75 and 85 and just make more charging stops. I prefer this so I have more time to walk around and so the kids will be out of the truck too.

 

[Captain JB]

@LiamJacobs sorry to hear about your experience.

I drive roughly 30k miles a year for work and have a now soon to be out of warranty Rivian R1T.

I'll put on 300-400 miles on a bad day (125/125/80/80 trip distances).

70mph is a must, and my own calculations is a lost of 2% per mile above that (80mph nets 20% loss).

I'm not holding my breath, but am probably gonna buy G1 21's for my new G2 R1T for my cold weather driving hoping for more range.

why would your R1T almost be out of warranty?? Just curious…JB

 

[ja_kub_sz]

why would your R1T almost be out of warranty?? Just curious…JB
[/QUOTE

65k miles... I'm referring to non-drive unit parts.

 

[Captain JB]

wow…you do drive a lot. ok thx much for the clarity

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