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Insurance Rates for R2

graytag

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I just asked USAA for a ballpark quote and they gave me $530 a month. The R1S quote was about $530 as well. A few months ago, they quoted me $270. This was after they raised my insurance to $200 a month on a car worth $8,000 now. I'm going to have to switch as they are getting out of control. Out of my almost 20 years of driving, I've only made 1 claim and it was a minor repair. It's not just me right? That's high or am I crazy.
If your car is worth $8K, why not just carry liability only? I was $80/month with USAA on my old GX460.
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graytag

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State minimums i believe.
Got it but I'd look into that- liability provides coverage for everything except your car- assuming you're at fault or hit by someone without insurance. It should meet minimums. I had it in DC but, admittedly don't know MD. Regardless- you're getting an R2!
 

emroch

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I just asked USAA for a ballpark quote and they gave me $530 a month. The R1S quote was about $530 as well. A few months ago, they quoted me $270. This was after they raised my insurance to $200 a month on a car worth $8,000 now. I'm going to have to switch as they are getting out of control. Out of my almost 20 years of driving, I've only made 1 claim and it was a minor repair. It's not just me right? That's high or am I crazy.
I asked USAA for a ballpark quote yesterday and was quoted $1200/6mo. My policy currently just covers me, not my wife, and includes liability but no collision coverage for my $1500 (generously) Nissan Altima for $385/6mo
I separately quoted adding my wife and her car (2021 Equinox) to my policy and was quoted $600/6mo extra. So combined I expect about $300/1mo for both drivers and cars.

Of course, your situation/coverage/discounts/etc are likely different, so take that with a whole block of salt. Also, make sure the agent knows what the R2 is, and that they did not quote you a "gen 2 R1".
 

ragemule

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For the answer to your question to be accurate, the person would need to live in the same area as you, have a similar driving record and similar credit score.
 

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SwampNut

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For the answer to your question to be accurate, the person would need to live in the same area as you, have a similar driving record and similar credit score.
Even that doesn't do it. My neighbor who is a year older, clean record like me, and similar but marginally higher credit score, pays slightly more. It's even more mysterious than just those factors. I don't get it.

Also everyone here should get a CLUE. That's not an insult, order your Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange report from here: https://consumer.risk.lexisnexis.com/

It's like a credit report for insurance stats. Select the option to get a report, fill in the form, and in 1-2 weeks you'll get a letter with info to access your file online.
 

AlphaSnowbordergirl

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I asked USAA for a ballpark quote yesterday and was quoted $1200/6mo. My policy currently just covers me, not my wife, and includes liability but no collision coverage for my $1500 (generously) Nissan Altima for $385/6mo
I separately quoted adding my wife and her car (2021 Equinox) to my policy and was quoted $600/6mo extra. So combined I expect about $300/1mo for both drivers and cars.

Of course, your situation/coverage/discounts/etc are likely different, so take that with a whole block of salt. Also, make sure the agent knows what the R2 is, and that they did not quote you a "gen 2 R1".
I am also single with no family with all state minimums and coverage driving only 8,000 miles a year and that was the price, basically as low as I could get it. I also told them it was the R2 and gave them the weight, price, etc. That's why I thought the quote was insane.
 
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cwq93r

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What do you use as the vehicle type when Quoting with Geico? It’s not in their system and SUV is not a vehicle type when trying to select a 2027 Rivian.
 
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I just asked USAA for a ballpark quote and they gave me $530 a month. The R1S quote was about $530 as well. A few months ago, they quoted me $270. This was after they raised my insurance to $200 a month on a car worth $8,000 now. I'm going to have to switch as they are getting out of control. Out of my almost 20 years of driving, I've only made 1 claim and it was a minor repair. It's not just me right? That's high or am I crazy.
$530 a month!? For one car!? $6,360 a year!?

Goodness. I'm in VA and pay about $50 a month ($1,200 a year) for three vehicles (two of which are admittedly not worth anything, but the 3rd is worth roughly $15,000). With Progressive, no accidents, two drivers (me and wife).
 

Gen(R3)Xer

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Leasing Model 3 until R3X comes out, but now I have an R2 reservation as well.
The biggest thing keeping me from an R1 was insurance rates. There's a lot to say for the repairability of the R2, especially concerning what should be a minor accident!
Not that I could afford an R1, but if I won an EV of my choice in a raffle or something I still think I’d go with the R2 due to insurance and repairs.

The R2 was definitely designed with ease of repairability in mind compared to the R1. Things like the dark gray trim on the impact zones of the front and rear bumpers, quarter panels being isolated rather than part of a larger piece, etc.
 

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Blitzjb

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Got it but I'd look into that- liability provides coverage for everything except your car- assuming you're at fault or hit by someone without insurance. It should meet minimums. I had it in DC but, admittedly don't know MD. Regardless- you're getting an R2!
If you are liable in a serious accident, you risk your home and assets.....Proper coverage matters!
 

Millbarge

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I just priced out a Premium on my insurance app--rate would increase about $40/6 months over a '23 BMW X1.
 

iamnid

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If you are liable in a serious accident, you risk your home and assets.....Proper coverage matters!
Yeah, not to mention uninsured or underinsured motorist coverage. Very short-sighted to save a couple bucks and then realize what you've done when you get seriously injured by someone with (a) no insurance or (b) state minimum ($30k where I live).
 

ewcanes

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When I ran the quote, my insurance is expected to go down about $40 for 6 months, so that's nice.
 

kurtlikevonnegut

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Not that I could afford an R1, but if I won an EV of my choice in a raffle or something I still think I’d go with the R2 due to insurance and repairs.

The R2 was definitely designed with ease of repairability in mind compared to the R1. Things like the dark gray trim on the impact zones of the front and rear bumpers, quarter panels being isolated rather than part of a larger piece, etc.
Repairability is a really big issue for long term cost of ownership R2 vs R1. As good as the suspension is on the R1 with variable ride height and adaptive dampening, the parts and labor are incredibly expensive. Under warranty it's not a huge issue, but if you're wanting to keep a vehicle beyond 40k miles it becomes a limiting factor.
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