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kylealden

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I got to (had to) try out my AutoSocks for the first time coming over Santiam Pass on Saturday, towing a 20ft trailer. A few folks have asked about it so I figured I'd share a very brief report.

For those who aren't aware, Rivian recommends against using chains or cables on the 20" wheels due to clearance, so the only option is AutoSocks. They are nylon/fiber wheel wrappings that work similar to (arguably better than) chains in ice and snow, and satisfy DOT requirements for chaining up when needed.

Long story short, they worked out great in both snow and ice and seemed to hold up well over about 15-20 miles over the summit (I kept it below 30 mph). They're eerily like driving on velcro once they're mounted - lots of traction even compared to the Blizzak LT tires I'm already running.

Because I'm planning to take the trailer to lots of ski areas and there's a blizzard incoming, I've got another pair on order for the trailer since it technically needs its own.

Rivian R1T R1S Autosocks experience & towing in the snow 1704739827188


The socks themselves are super easy to work with, you just slip the sock over the top of the wheels and as far down the sides you can, pull the truck forward a half rotation, and repeat for (what was) the bottom. I raised the suspension all the way to make it easier to get my hands in there but it really couldn’t be easier - no straps/links/clips, just an elastic like a fitted sheet. 3-5 minutes tops and it was my first time.

Removing them is almost harder just because they really cling to the wheels once they get cold and waterlogged, and they’re a bit of a mess to shake out and dry overnight afterwards, but it beats repacking chains.

As for the drive itself, the R1T was an absolute dream taking my Basecamp 20X over the pass. I left a HipCamp in Sublimity, OR around noon heading for Sisters. Once we saw the chain requirement and increasing snow in the forecast, we decided to charge an extra 10-20% at Detroit Lake (50kw charger there) just in case we got stuck and had to spend the night, but we would have been fine without it.

The trip computer was bang-on for the range (after about 400 miles towing this trailer so far to calibrate), and we arrived with pretty much exactly the forecasted range even after climbing through the snow. Overall I'm average 1.1 mi/kWh including lots of 65+ mph highway time and the mountain passes.

The trailer tracks great, the brake controller is super well integrated, and I never had a single moment of concern in the snow. Naturally I'd love a bit more range but beyond that, the R1T really slays snow and is an effortless tow vehicle.
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jjswan33

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Because I'm planning to take the trailer to lots of ski areas and there's a blizzard incoming

🕺🕺🕺🕺🕺🕺🕺

My snow dances finally started working! Now to start loading the truck...
 

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Looking great out there, glad to hear the performance was excellent as well! I'm assuming your Blizzaks are the same 275/65R20 size as the stock pirellis? And that you're using the AutoSock AL69s?

The manual doesn't explicitly specify whether the traction devices should be applied to only two wheels or all four on 20" AT equipped vehicles. It does specify only chain up the rear wheels for all other wheel specs. Looks like you ran socks on all four in the photo -- did you consider only using them on the rears or no?
 

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What was your experience when the road was not covered by snow?

I haven't used them myself, but I know numerous folks who do/did. In the SoCal area when we go to the ski resorts, they often require chains/4x4/etc.

But many parts of the road are plowed. Snow socks on asphalt seems to tear them up within 5 miles or so. Then they're toast and they're not that cheap. I think they're only useful when you're driving on surfaces always covered with snow.
 
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kylealden

kylealden

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What was your experience when the road was not covered by snow? [...] Snow socks on asphalt seems to tear them up within 5 miles or so. Then they're toast and they're not that cheap. I think they're only useful when you're driving on surfaces always covered with snow.
There were plenty of bare spots with the patented Central Oregon lava rock sprayed absolutely everywhere, they seemed to hold out OK. Certainly not torn up within five miles. I wouldn't run them longer then necessary, but I think the key is to keep is slow and steady and add them as late/remove them as early as practical (same with chains.) But I'm going from a sample size of one trip so far.

Looking great out there, glad to hear the performance was excellent as well! I'm assuming your Blizzaks are the same 275/65R20 size as the stock pirellis? And that you're using the AutoSock AL69s?
Yep, same size as stock, I'm using AL69s.

The manual doesn't explicitly specify whether the traction devices should be applied to only two wheels or all four on 20" AT equipped vehicles. It does specify only chain up the rear wheels for all other wheel specs. Looks like you ran socks on all four in the photo -- did you consider only using them on the rears or no?
I consider only the rear but figured all four couldn't hurt; since I had the trailer and no socks for it, I wanted to make sure I had any braking/steering control I could possibly muster. I'll probably stick to rear wheels plus trailer axle in the future once the new pair arrives, but would welcome theories to the contrary.
 

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I consider only the rear but figured all four couldn't hurt; since I had the trailer and no socks for it, I wanted to make sure I had any braking/steering control I could possibly muster. I'll probably stick to rear wheels plus trailer axle in the future once the new pair arrives, but would welcome theories to the contrary.
That makes sense given you have two pair and three axles when towing. I feel like with snow mode and taking it slow, socking the rear only might be the move. But now I'm worried I should buy a second pair just in case 😅 thanks for the great info here!
 

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I got to (had to) try out my AutoSocks for the first time coming over Santiam Pass on Saturday, towing a 20ft trailer. A few folks have asked about it so I figured I'd share a very brief report.

For those who aren't aware, Rivian recommends against using chains or cables on the 20" wheels due to clearance, so the only option is AutoSocks. They are nylon/fiber wheel wrappings that work similar to (arguably better than) chains in ice and snow, and satisfy DOT requirements for chaining up when needed.

Long story short, they worked out great in both snow and ice and seemed to hold up well over about 15-20 miles over the summit (I kept it below 30 mph). They're eerily like driving on velcro once they're mounted - lots of traction even compared to the Blizzak LT tires I'm already running.

Because I'm planning to take the trailer to lots of ski areas and there's a blizzard incoming, I've got another pair on order for the trailer since it technically needs its own.

View attachment 80453

The socks themselves are super easy to work with, you just slip the sock over the top of the wheels and as far down the sides you can, pull the truck forward a half rotation, and repeat for (what was) the bottom. I raised the suspension all the way to make it easier to get my hands in there but it really couldn’t be easier - no straps/links/clips, just an elastic like a fitted sheet. 3-5 minutes tops and it was my first time.

Removing them is almost harder just because they really cling to the wheels once they get cold and waterlogged, and they’re a bit of a mess to shake out and dry overnight afterwards, but it beats repacking chains.

As for the drive itself, the R1T was an absolute dream taking my Basecamp 20X over the pass. I left a HipCamp in Sublimity, OR around noon heading for Sisters. Once we saw the chain requirement and increasing snow in the forecast, we decided to charge an extra 10-20% at Detroit Lake (50kw charger there) just in case we got stuck and had to spend the night, but we would have been fine without it.

The trip computer was bang-on for the range (after about 400 miles towing this trailer so far to calibrate), and we arrived with pretty much exactly the forecasted range even after climbing through the snow. Overall I'm average 1.1 mi/kWh including lots of 65+ mph highway time and the mountain passes.

The trailer tracks great, the brake controller is super well integrated, and I never had a single moment of concern in the snow. Naturally I'd love a bit more range but beyond that, the R1T really slays snow and is an effortless tow vehicle.
Thanks for info. Don't plan on doing much driving in snow, but bought a set just in case.

So far I've purchased the following for my R1S:

Center console organizer
USB C 90 degree adapter
Type C microsd card reader
Frunk, 3 row, and trunk mats
Windshield heat shield
Polyurethane recoil air hose & coupler
Bungee cargo net
10T bottle jack
Set of jack pucks
2 cargo tie down
Cargo cover
Autosocks
Compact spare (to be installed next month)

It's getting to be a long list...
 

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I got to (had to) try out my AutoSocks for the first time coming over Santiam Pass on Saturday, towing a 20ft trailer. A few folks have asked about it so I figured I'd share a very brief report.

For those who aren't aware, Rivian recommends against using chains or cables on the 20" wheels due to clearance, so the only option is AutoSocks. They are nylon/fiber wheel wrappings that work similar to (arguably better than) chains in ice and snow, and satisfy DOT requirements for chaining up when needed.

Long story short, they worked out great in both snow and ice and seemed to hold up well over about 15-20 miles over the summit (I kept it below 30 mph). They're eerily like driving on velcro once they're mounted - lots of traction even compared to the Blizzak LT tires I'm already running.

Because I'm planning to take the trailer to lots of ski areas and there's a blizzard incoming, I've got another pair on order for the trailer since it technically needs its own.

1704739827188.png


The socks themselves are super easy to work with, you just slip the sock over the top of the wheels and as far down the sides you can, pull the truck forward a half rotation, and repeat for (what was) the bottom. I raised the suspension all the way to make it easier to get my hands in there but it really couldn’t be easier - no straps/links/clips, just an elastic like a fitted sheet. 3-5 minutes tops and it was my first time.

Removing them is almost harder just because they really cling to the wheels once they get cold and waterlogged, and they’re a bit of a mess to shake out and dry overnight afterwards, but it beats repacking chains.

As for the drive itself, the R1T was an absolute dream taking my Basecamp 20X over the pass. I left a HipCamp in Sublimity, OR around noon heading for Sisters. Once we saw the chain requirement and increasing snow in the forecast, we decided to charge an extra 10-20% at Detroit Lake (50kw charger there) just in case we got stuck and had to spend the night, but we would have been fine without it.

The trip computer was bang-on for the range (after about 400 miles towing this trailer so far to calibrate), and we arrived with pretty much exactly the forecasted range even after climbing through the snow. Overall I'm average 1.1 mi/kWh including lots of 65+ mph highway time and the mountain passes.

The trailer tracks great, the brake controller is super well integrated, and I never had a single moment of concern in the snow. Naturally I'd love a bit more range but beyond that, the R1T really slays snow and is an effortless tow vehicle.
Do you air down with snow socks? I carry / use cables for the front wheels and it's much better to airdown for help with traction and a more comfy ride in snow and hardpack.
 

kyunam

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I got to (had to) try out my AutoSocks for the first time coming over Santiam Pass on Saturday, towing a 20ft trailer. A few folks have asked about it so I figured I'd share a very brief report.

For those who aren't aware, Rivian recommends against using chains or cables on the 20" wheels due to clearance, so the only option is AutoSocks. They are nylon/fiber wheel wrappings that work similar to (arguably better than) chains in ice and snow, and satisfy DOT requirements for chaining up when needed.

Long story short, they worked out great in both snow and ice and seemed to hold up well over about 15-20 miles over the summit (I kept it below 30 mph). They're eerily like driving on velcro once they're mounted - lots of traction even compared to the Blizzak LT tires I'm already running.

Because I'm planning to take the trailer to lots of ski areas and there's a blizzard incoming, I've got another pair on order for the trailer since it technically needs its own.

1704739827188.png


The socks themselves are super easy to work with, you just slip the sock over the top of the wheels and as far down the sides you can, pull the truck forward a half rotation, and repeat for (what was) the bottom. I raised the suspension all the way to make it easier to get my hands in there but it really couldn’t be easier - no straps/links/clips, just an elastic like a fitted sheet. 3-5 minutes tops and it was my first time.

Removing them is almost harder just because they really cling to the wheels once they get cold and waterlogged, and they’re a bit of a mess to shake out and dry overnight afterwards, but it beats repacking chains.

As for the drive itself, the R1T was an absolute dream taking my Basecamp 20X over the pass. I left a HipCamp in Sublimity, OR around noon heading for Sisters. Once we saw the chain requirement and increasing snow in the forecast, we decided to charge an extra 10-20% at Detroit Lake (50kw charger there) just in case we got stuck and had to spend the night, but we would have been fine without it.

The trip computer was bang-on for the range (after about 400 miles towing this trailer so far to calibrate), and we arrived with pretty much exactly the forecasted range even after climbing through the snow. Overall I'm average 1.1 mi/kWh including lots of 65+ mph highway time and the mountain passes.

The trailer tracks great, the brake controller is super well integrated, and I never had a single moment of concern in the snow. Naturally I'd love a bit more range but beyond that, the R1T really slays snow and is an effortless tow vehicle.
Thanks for the write up. I bought AL69 a while ago, haven't used it yet, I've been wondering if AL69 is the one or not for 20' AT. Now you confirmed it!
 
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kylealden

kylealden

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Do you air down with snow socks? I carry / use cables for the front wheels and it's much better to airdown for help with traction and a more comfy ride in snow and hardpack.
I didn't see any guidance to air down in the instructions, and haven't done so myself. I'm sure you could and plausibly see at least some combined benefit, but I'm not sure how much of one. I certainly didn't see a need to air down.

I'll likely stick to AutoSocks when there's a chain requirement on the road (as there was this weekend), or if I get stuck; and airing down for deep snow otherwise.

Edit: I should add that the traction material on autosocks maps pretty closely to the flat tread on the tire - not the sidewall at all. So I wouldn't be surprised if airing down for a greater contact patch has diminishing returns since you'd be introducing surface area without adding more traction (and it might impact the fit of the socks).
 

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I didn't see any guidance to air down in the instructions, and haven't done so myself. I'm sure you could and plausibly see at least some combined benefit, but I'm not sure how much of one. I certainly didn't see a need to air down.

I'll likely stick to AutoSocks when there's a chain requirement on the road (as there was this weekend), or if I get stuck; and airing down for deep snow otherwise.

Edit: I should add that the traction material on autosocks maps pretty closely to the flat tread on the tire - not the sidewall at all. So I wouldn't be surprised if airing down for a greater contact patch has diminishing returns since you'd be introducing surface area without adding more traction (and it might impact the fit of the socks).
I'd assume airing down would still help -- less about adding traction material to the sidewall, and more about increasing overall contact patch.

Imagine a tire inflated to 50psi versus one inflated to 30psi. The 50psi tire will be driving on significantly less contact patch, akin to only contacting the road surface at the tangent of the tire. All of the vehicle weight on that wheel will contact the road in a small area. Airing down will expand that contact patch in all directions, spreading the load out more evenly, and allowing for significantly more traction before slipping. You'd be allowing more sock material to handle the same amount of work, unless I'm missing some key fundamental property of these traction devices.

That said, airing down will drastically effect efficiency and reduce at-speed stability, so weigh your pros and cons 😛
 

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I received mine today and tried them on my R1S to see how they fit. These are the AL69's on 20 inch wheels. Overall they look like a good fit. Looking forward to trying them in the snow soon! Here are some pictures.

Rivian R1T R1S Autosocks experience & towing in the snow IMG_2880


Rivian R1T R1S Autosocks experience & towing in the snow IMG_2881


Rivian R1T R1S Autosocks experience & towing in the snow IMG_2882
 

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3-5 minutes tops and it was my first time.
Did you write that just to see who would take it out of context? :giggle: I mean, knowing the crowd on here I can’t believe nobody commented on it yet. Not that I would ever do such a thing. :lipssealed:
 

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Just to be clear, 4x4 + dedicated snow tires + chains/socks were required by law for everyone, or just because you have trailer?

I got to (had to) try out my AutoSocks for the first time coming over Santiam Pass on Saturday, towing a 20ft trailer. A few folks have asked about it so I figured I'd share a very brief report.

For those who aren't aware, Rivian recommends against using chains or cables on the 20" wheels due to clearance, so the only option is AutoSocks. They are nylon/fiber wheel wrappings that work similar to (arguably better than) chains in ice and snow, and satisfy DOT requirements for chaining up when needed.

Long story short, they worked out great in both snow and ice and seemed to hold up well over about 15-20 miles over the summit (I kept it below 30 mph). They're eerily like driving on velcro once they're mounted - lots of traction even compared to the Blizzak LT tires I'm already running.

Because I'm planning to take the trailer to lots of ski areas and there's a blizzard incoming, I've got another pair on order for the trailer since it technically needs its own.

1704739827188.png


The socks themselves are super easy to work with, you just slip the sock over the top of the wheels and as far down the sides you can, pull the truck forward a half rotation, and repeat for (what was) the bottom. I raised the suspension all the way to make it easier to get my hands in there but it really couldn’t be easier - no straps/links/clips, just an elastic like a fitted sheet. 3-5 minutes tops and it was my first time.

Removing them is almost harder just because they really cling to the wheels once they get cold and waterlogged, and they’re a bit of a mess to shake out and dry overnight afterwards, but it beats repacking chains.

As for the drive itself, the R1T was an absolute dream taking my Basecamp 20X over the pass. I left a HipCamp in Sublimity, OR around noon heading for Sisters. Once we saw the chain requirement and increasing snow in the forecast, we decided to charge an extra 10-20% at Detroit Lake (50kw charger there) just in case we got stuck and had to spend the night, but we would have been fine without it.

The trip computer was bang-on for the range (after about 400 miles towing this trailer so far to calibrate), and we arrived with pretty much exactly the forecasted range even after climbing through the snow. Overall I'm average 1.1 mi/kWh including lots of 65+ mph highway time and the mountain passes.

The trailer tracks great, the brake controller is super well integrated, and I never had a single moment of concern in the snow. Naturally I'd love a bit more range but beyond that, the R1T really slays snow and is an effortless tow vehicle.
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