Amazing cold weather performance in 19 degree temps thanks to preconditioning update which landed just in time

[MidnightRivian]

I’m loving the cold weather performance.

I used the pre-condition feature and the update came just in time for 14 degree temps.

Before warming up the vehicle, cabin temps showed 41 degrees in my garage.

I’m getting 1.91 mi/kWh on 20” AT driving mainly on the highway between 65 mph and 74 mph. This is with snow mode which has low regen.

current temps outside show 19 degrees on the dash with battery at 53 degrees.

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[Greg Chick]

My garage is about 45 degrees, my battery is 78! It is plugged in to a Rivian charger, and charged up to 90% The new OTA seems to be working well. I do not mind if the battery heating costs a dollar, I have solar panels and low power costs.

 

[Herb]

I’m loving the cold weather performance.

I used the pre-condition feature and the update came just in time for 14 degree temps.

Before warming up the vehicle, cabin temps showed 41 degrees in my garage.

I’m getting 1.91 mi/kWh on 20” AT driving mainly on the highway between 65 mph and 74 mph. This is with snow mode which has low regen.

current temps outside show 19 degrees on the dash with battery at 53 degrees.

Sorry if I rain on the parade, but consider that when taking the energy for pre-conditioning into account, things don't look so good anymore. In my case, with outside temp near zero, my garage is near freezing (33' right now). I have a 5 mile drive to work, and while I also get about 2 m/kWh while driving, I can spend a few kWh pre-heating the cabin and battery. In addition, over a 24 hr period, a couple of kWh disappear into thin air just by parking. In this scenario, total energy per mile is approaching ICE territory (granted if you were to pre-heat ICE, the balance shifts in favor of BEV, again). I realize this might be an extreme example, but for my short drive, preconditioning may not save any energy. Spinning this further, without preconditioning and after 5 miles, the battery reaches equilibrium temperature anyways. This would mean that preconditioning never reduces total energy consumed, it just shifts it from battery to charger and basically buys a few miles of range. This is for DM max setup, the equation may be different for QM.

 

[CrazyOne]

Freeway(warm) tire pressure should be 50 - 52 psi. Unless 20s run lower pressure. Not bad efficiency for AT though.

 

[MidnightRivian]

Sorry if I rain on the parade, but consider that when taking the energy for pre-conditioning into account, things don't look so good anymore. In my case, with outside temp near zero, my garage is near freezing (33' right now). I have a 5 mile drive to work, and while I also get about 2 m/kWh while driving, I can spend a few kWh pre-heating the cabin and battery. In addition, over a 24 hr period, a couple of kWh disappear into thin air just by parking. In this scenario, total energy per mile is approaching ICE territory (granted if you were to pre-heat ICE, the balance shifts in favor of BEV, again). I realize this might be an extreme example, but for my short drive, preconditioning may not save any energy. Spinning this further, without preconditioning and after 5 miles, the battery reaches equilibrium temperature anyways. This would mean that preconditioning never reduces total energy consumed, it just shifts it from battery to charger and basically buys a few miles of range. This is for DM max setup, the equation may be different for QM.

Zoom out and look at the big picture.

It starts with not having to sit in a cabin near 41 degrees and instead having a cabin which is at a nice and comfortable 75 degrees with heat under you and at your fingertips. What’s that luxury worth??

Not having to pump gas in the freezing weather on a weekly basis. What’s that luxury worth??

Then bring it all together and when comparing an ICE to an EV especially when gas approaches $5 and taking into account if you pre-heat both and remove the time wasted at the pump.

EV tends to have the edge. Add the fact I had to Idle for 1 hour at the airport, the EV did much better all around compared to a combustion vehicle.

we’re not even having to worry about summer blend versus winter blend gasoline and the effects of it on the engine / efficiency.

I’m extremely pleased with the cold weather performance/update.

I don’t mind spending a little to make sure I can still get similar range in miles from the battery in the summer or winter.

 

[MidnightRivian]

Freeway(warm) tire pressure should be 50 - 52 psi. Unless 20s run lower pressure. Not bad efficiency for AT though.

I normally keep it between 48 cold And 50-52 warm.

I would use the air compressor to top off after the 45 degree drop in temps but I would rather wait to get to Costco and add nitrogen for free.

It really helped the last time when temps dropped and I lost like 5 lbs and added nitrogen instead. Nitrogen is better all around and helps keeping pressure around 48-50 most of the time.

 

[evhelphub]

Let's not forget that when it comes to preconditioning the cabin, EVs are quicker to do so and the heat comes out more immediately. Even if you forget to preheat the car.

I have an ice car that I drove in 20° weather the other day and it didn't even start to warm up until about 10 minutes or so into the drive. Granted it's an older car but our other car, the ID4, blows warm air in about 20 seconds. That also counts for something.

 

[Batman]

So i'm a little slow. Are we considering scheduling cabin climate as preconditioning the car battery? Just want to make sure there isn't another window/icon I need to select in order to just precondition the car battery.

 

[R1SFamilyGuy]

Add the fact I had to Idle for 1 hour at the airport

I live to be able to stop under these signs.

 

[RivAW]

Sorry if I rain on the parade, but consider that when taking the energy for pre-conditioning into account, things don't look so good anymore. In my case, with outside temp near zero, my garage is near freezing (33' right now). I have a 5 mile drive to work, and while I also get about 2 m/kWh while driving, I can spend a few kWh pre-heating the cabin and battery. In addition, over a 24 hr period, a couple of kWh disappear into thin air just by parking. In this scenario, total energy per mile is approaching ICE territory (granted if you were to pre-heat ICE, the balance shifts in favor of BEV, again). I realize this might be an extreme example, but for my short drive, preconditioning may not save any energy. Spinning this further, without preconditioning and after 5 miles, the battery reaches equilibrium temperature anyways. This would mean that preconditioning never reduces total energy consumed, it just shifts it from battery to charger and basically buys a few miles of range. This is for DM max setup, the equation may be different for QM.

That's only in your circumstance of an extremely short drive. As you stated, the same would occur if (on your short drive) you started your ICE vehicle and let it run for 15-20 mins to warm up and defrost, then drive in the cold. Also, the whole point of the preconditioning isn't to make things overall more efficient....its exactly what you said....it buys miles of range which are otherwise lessened (for those that need them). Not everyone has a 5 mile commute.

 

[Herb]

Zoom out and look at the big picture.

It starts with not having to sit in a cabin near 41 degrees and instead having a cabin which is at a nice and comfortable 75 degrees with heat under you and at your fingertips. What’s that luxury worth??

Not having to pump gas in the freezing weather on a weekly basis. What’s that luxury worth??

Then bring it all together and when comparing an ICE to an EV especially when gas approaches $5 and taking into account if you pre-heat both and remove the time wasted at the pump.

EV tends to have the edge. Add the fact I had to Idle for 1 hour at the airport, the EV did much better all around compared to a combustion vehicle.

we’re not even having to worry about summer blend versus winter blend gasoline and the effects of it on the engine / efficiency.

I’m extremely pleased with the cold weather performance/update.

I don’t mind spending a little to make sure I can still get similar range in miles from the battery in the summer or winter.

I don't disagree with most anything you said, other than $5 gas - it think it has been closer to $3 in most of the country. And, 75' is beyond luxury here - it just would not feel right when with wind chills way into the negative. Totally agree that in the grand scheme of things, a quarter to pre-heat the truck on a cold day doesn't matter. I never preheated any of my ICE vehicles, I couldn't justify spewing crap for 1/2 hr just for an 8 min drive. Anyways, I don't have second thoughts about going EV, it was more of thought experiment as to what goes into total efficiency. However, I stay firm that vampire drain should be improved, that seems plain waste and adds up when you consider that soon, there will be 100,000 Rs.

 

[LL75]

So i'm a little slow. Are we considering scheduling cabin climate as preconditioning the car battery? Just want to make sure there isn't another window/icon I need to select in order to just precondition the car battery.

it is the same icon.

 

[MidnightRivian]

I don't disagree with most anything you said, other than $5 gas - it think it has been closer to $3 in most of the country. And, 75' is beyond luxury here - it just would not feel right when with wind chills way into the negative. Totally agree that in the grand scheme of things, a quarter to pre-heat the truck on a cold day doesn't matter. I never preheated any of my ICE vehicles, I couldn't justify spewing crap for 1/2 hr just for an 8 min drive. Anyways, I don't have second thoughts about going EV, it was more of thought experiment as to what goes into total efficiency. However, I stay firm that vampire drain should be improved, that seems plain waste and adds up when you consider that soon, there will be 100,000 Rs.

All the vehicles I’ve driven were tuned on premium. I like fast cars. I personally prefer going to shell or chevron if possible. If those aren’t convenient, I’ll go to a top tier gasoline chain.

https://www.toptiergas.com/

What I’ve noticed is fuel is more expensive in the summer compared to winter. If I look at average premium gasoline prices in places like California and Washington. You easily approach $5 a gallon for a vehicle that runs 600 horsepower - 800 horsepower and those type of vehicles love to guzzle gas and sometimes have a gas guzzler tax.

Rivian will take happily take energy from solar or the grid. It doesn’t care and performs the same. 0-60 in 3 seconds from wind, hydro, natural gas or solar.

I’m sure overtime Rivian will fine tune efficiency but at this time I’m already happy not having to pre-heat my car wasting gas, polluting or leaving garage door open and letting in cold air.

 

[Herb]

I guess Ohio has some perks (if you drive ICE), but electricity is less than 10c. I also have solar panels, but don't have excess, at least not in the winter.

 

[irfan]

I guess Ohio has some perks (if you drive ICE), but electricity is less than 10c. I also have solar panels, but don't have excess, at least not in the winter.

You have 10c electric ? My total in Ohio is 18.9c all in. Are you sure you’re factoring in the total and not just the generation charge?

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