Closing the tailgate - heavy & cumbersome

[JacobAZ]

A typical full size truck tailgate when opened extends about the length of the truck bed depth (20 - 24"). However R1T bed is short and shallow, only about 18" deep. Rivian designed the tailgate with extended hinges, and a piece to cove the gap. This allows the tailgate to extend about 25" beyond the end of the truck, allowing the bed + tailgate down to be close to a full size truck, and providing a large tailgate down work area. For me, this is a smart design. However, due to physics and leverage, the tailgate extension and hinges do require more effort to close it than some full size trucks. That said, my wife weighs about 120 pounds and is 70 years old ... she has no trouble closing it with two hands.

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[Weck]

It’s a one hand lift and slam, not exactly hard. Most of my trucks have been on par with effort required, more than one has had a heavier and bulkier tailgate.

Except the thickness of the aluminum tailgate is not much more than an aluminum can... I closed by tailgate one handed exactly one time shortly after I bought the truck... Been looking at a slight ripple in the metal ever since if the light hits it just right. Being aluminum it's not receptive to the cold icecube on a hot day dent extraction method either.

The bed sides aren't much better, but at least those are steel.

 

[portdirect]

Except the thickness of the aluminum tailgate is not much more than an aluminum can... I closed by tailgate one handed exactly one time shortly after I bought the truck... Been looking at a slight ripple in the metal ever since if the light hits it just right. Being aluminum it's not receptive to the cold icecube on a hot day dent extraction method either.

The bed sides aren't much better, but at least those are steel.

!00% - I've managed to keep the gear tunnel doors crease free on our 2nd T, but these things are too thin - I wince whoever my very ICE centric in-laws use it compared to their Ram, Fords and Chevy's as to be fair they expect the T to be a.... Truck. Ironically this puts me in the camp of wanting a (marginally) heavier tailgate please!

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

!00% - I've managed to keep the gear tunnel doors crease free on our 2nd T, but these things are too thin - I wince whoever my very ICE centric in-laws use it compared to their Ram, Fords and Chevy's as to be fair they expect the T to be a.... Truck. Ironically this puts me in the camp of wanting a (marginally) heavier tailgate please!

The thin skin is what I noticed immediately after delivery. Delivered with dents. Then, 2 days later, trying to clay bar the entire thing after a tree shed its tiny fruit and left tiny red stains all over. How much the skin flexed reminded me of mid to late 80s Subaru. Compared to the '13 BMW X5 it replaces, the BMW was a bonafide panzer. It's disturbing how easily the skin flexes. Somewhat glad I did full PPF. I would not want to wax and buff the T on a regular basis.

 

[smashweights]

Coming from a Ram 1500... I notice no difference.

The Rivian clunks a bit more because of the bridge piece that rattles.

 

[RivianRiverRat]

Grab it by the side hook
No dents or dings

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

Grab it by the side hook
No dents or dings

I lube the latch. If I did that I’d get lube on my hand and that isn’t always practical.

 

[Rade]

I have also discovered that unless I do the "Rivian Slam" when closing the tailgate, it CAN come unlatched while driving.

 

[portdirect]

Grab it by the side hook
No dents or dings

how do you actually get it to close when lifting by the hook that latches? Both of mine have needed quite the shove to get the latched to hold - especially when the tonneau cover is closed. I'm not able to do the 'flick' that works for the gear tunnel doors.

 

[ElGuano]

how do you actually get it to close when lifting by the hook that latches? Both of mine have needed quite the shove to get the latched to hold - especially when the tonneau cover is closed. I'm not able to do the 'flick' that works for the gear tunnel doors.

For the PTC, have you tried the calibration routine? Mine closes in a way where the rubber gasket just gently starts to compress against the tailgate, but doesn't cause any resistance while closing (which is how I think it's supposed to be).

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

how do you actually get it to close when lifting by the hook that latches? Both of mine have needed quite the shove to get the latched to hold - especially when the tonneau cover is closed. I'm not able to do the 'flick' that works for the gear tunnel doors.

Yah I'd like to know how many fingers are left. I just don't see how that method is an advantage over lifting with both palms along the top edge (or near corners).

 

[RivianRiverRat]

how do you actually get it to close when lifting by the hook that latches? Both of mine have needed quite the shove to get the latched to hold - especially when the tonneau cover is closed. I'm not able to do the 'flick' that works for the gear tunnel doors.

I guess I should have clarified
Pulling on the hook only gets it upright
You still have to close it
Pulling the hook method eliminates most potential for drying the tailgate

 

[RivianRiverRat]

Yah I'd like to know how many fingers are left. I just don't see how that method is an advantage over lifting with both palms along the top edge (or near corners).

See reply to portdirect

 

[RivianRiverRat]

I lube the latch. If I did that I’d get lube on my hand and that isn’t always practical.

Gloves

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

Gloves

As if I have gloves with me all the time? And why—go through process of putting on and taking off gloves every time—when I can just lift and close the gate with my bare hands at the top edge or near corners (where the exterior skin is more rigid)? You do you, but I just don't see an improvement over one single, and tool-less, motion/act.

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