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21" Inch What does everyone do with their 21" wheels when they inevitably replace them?

joelg

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I'm looking at replacing my 21" wheels with EV Sportline's 20" Steelies with Toyo AT3 EVs. I know many people have quickly realized the pain of having the 21" wheels long term, but what do you do with them? I'd imagine the resale market is flush with them. Have they been hard to unload?

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I had the 21 inch for three years and am on my second set. I got just over 40,000 on my 22 R1T with them. My solution is trading in for a new Tri. We are picking it up Monday and it will have 20 inch. :):cool:
 

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I sold mine on the classifieds on this website. I was able to ship them to the buyer in the boxes my new wheels came in. I still have the 5th one in my spare tire compartment under the bed of my R1T. I don’t recall what I sold them for, $200 each maybe? Now that Michelin has a tire that fits, I think there’s actually a market for them, especially for the owner that has AT/MT tires on the stock 20s and wants something more efficient.
 
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joelg

joelg

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I had the 21 inch for three years and am on my second set. I got just over 40,000 on my 22 R1T with them. My solution is trading in for a new Tri. We are picking it up Monday and it will have 20 inch. :):cool:
Seems like a real "baby with the bathwater" situation, but nonetheless I'm a fan of your logic.
 

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Not going to replace the ones on ours. They work, seem to be relatively efficient, the tires aren't completely terrible. I do put snow tires on with some 22" sport rims for the winter time, but it was one of the only options back in 22.
 
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joelg

joelg

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I sold mine on the classifieds on this website. I was able to ship them to the buyer in the boxes my new wheels came in. I still have the 5th one in my spare tire compartment under the bed of my R1T. I don’t recall what I sold them for, $200 each maybe? Now that Michelin has a tire that fits, I think there’s actually a market for them, especially for the owner that has AT/MT tires on the stock 20s and wants something more efficient.
OOF, $200 each is rough, but that's kinda what I was afraid of.

You put them up for sale. And IMO you can do a lot better than those heavy steelies.
Yeah, I'm not being that ambitious I know. The steelies are right up my alley aesthetically and the price is right. Is the weight an issue for any practical reasons? I know lighter wheels can marginally improve range and acceleration, but I can't imagine it's enough to justify much pricier wheels.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

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Is the weight an issue for any practical reasons? I know lighter wheels can marginally improve range and acceleration, but I can't imagine it's enough to justify much pricier wheels.
1. Efficiency
2. Suspension and handling performance.

More weight requires more energy to move AND counteract. When it comes to rotating weight, it isn't just about how much it weighs standing still. Small increases in static mass can become much more—exponentially more—once in rotation and at speed. A little demonstration you can do for yourself... Pick up a pair of light dumbbells and sit in a spinning swivel chair with your arms and dumbbells out stretched. Then repeat with heaver pair of dumbbells. Physics!

The factory 20" AT style wheels (aka "staples") are exactly 36 lbs on my postal scale. The steelies you're looking at are 48 lbs! If majority of your driving is steady highway cruising you probably won't see a huge drop in efficiency—since it doesn't take much energy to maintain momentum. If your driving is mostly stop and go, you will notice the efficiency impact more. In either case, you will the weight impact every time you turn or hit a bump. Everything will feel slightly less responsive. If you like the way the car feels now... ask yourself if it makes sense to spend money to compromise the way it feels now, just because you like the look. IMO, spend $ to improve/enhance, not compromise or make worse. Do right once, cry once. Pre-owned factory 20" wheels can also be found at extremely good prices. You just have to be vigilant, patient and act fast.

You should take a look at TireRack for starters. There is one or two alloy wheel options, with correct fitment, that are less or not much more than cost of the steelies.

Assuming load rating is adequate to the R1's GVWR... Anything with the correct bolt pattern 5x139.7mm (or 5x5.5"), 8.5" wide barrel, 64.1mm hub bore and offset of +48~35mm will work with no rubbing (factory width tires, 275mm).
 
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21's are no longer a pain long term as the Michelin defender was released in the correct sizing. I was about to pull the trigger on replacing with 20" when DT call and said they could get the defender.

I do think the 21's and the one OEM choice was a bit of a cluster, but for me it turned around and roadtripping has never been better.
 

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joelg

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1. Efficiency
2. Suspension and handling performance.

More weight requires more energy to move AND counteract. When it comes to rotating weight, it isn't just about how much it weighs standing still. Small increases in static mass can become much more—exponentially more—once in rotation and at speed. A little demonstration you can do for yourself... Pick up a pair of light dumbbells and sit in a spinning swivel chair with your arms and dumbbells out stretched. Then repeat with heaver pair of dumbbells. Physics!
Well, shoot. I forgot about the handling implications. That does feel like a dealbreaker. It sounds like some used OEM 20s is the go to option for me. Maybe I can get lucky and find someone who wants to trade 21s for 20s.
 

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Was also looking to change to different wheels until the Michelins came out. Hard to sell a set of 21’s for more than about $1,000 unless you’re willing to sit and wait for a buyer for a long time. You might sell quickly, but you might have them 6 months from now too. Even then, maybe you get $1500 at best? Probably just keep them if you can deal with the Michelins, which is what I ended up settling on doing.
 

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Well, shoot. I forgot about the handling implications. That does feel like a dealbreaker. It sounds like some used OEM 20s is the go to option for me. Maybe I can get lucky and find someone who wants to trade 21s for 20s.
MSW at Tire Rack. Cost less than the steel ones and same fitment specs as factory wheels.
 

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Not to be a contrarian, but my 21s with the OEM Pirellis have done well for my travels (mostly freeway and county highways, with some beach and dirt roads).

I have managed to pick up 2 more sets of 21s with wheels, TPMS, and low wear tires from drivers swapping to other wheel sizes. Cost me about half of what new tires would normally cost. Think I'm set for a while so long as serious off-roading isn't on the menu.
 

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1. Efficiency
2. Suspension and handling performance.

More weight requires more energy to move AND counteract. When it comes to rotating weight, it isn't just about how much it weighs standing still. Small increases in static mass can become much more—exponentially more—once in rotation and at speed. A little demonstration you can do for yourself... Pick up a pair of light dumbbells and sit in a spinning swivel chair with your arms and dumbbells out stretched. Then repeat with heaver pair of dumbbells. Physics!

The factory 20" AT style wheels (aka "staples") are exactly 36 lbs on my postal scale. The steelies you're looking at are 48 lbs! If majority of your driving is steady highway cruising you probably won't see a huge drop in efficiency—since it doesn't take much energy to maintain momentum. If your driving is mostly stop and go, you will notice the efficiency impact more. In either case, you will the weight impact every time you turn or hit a bump. Everything will feel slightly less responsive. If you like the way the car feels now... ask yourself if it makes sense to spend money to compromise the way it feels now, just because you like the look. IMO, spend $ to improve/enhance, not compromise or make worse. Do right once, cry once. Pre-owned factory 20" wheels can also be found at extremely good prices. You just have to be vigilant, patient and act fast.
I bought the steelies and put Nitto Terra Grappler G3s on them a year ago. Yes they are heavy but they ride better than the 21s and I think the extra weight and tread depth is helping dampening the jittery suspension. It has had maybe 15 percent reduction on efficiency. Yes it does change the handling at speeds below 10 mph but the extra tire width has helped improve stability. I also like the look of the steelies in black on my red R1T and haven't noticed any tangible performance change. I am not one to regularly launch my truck so your results may vary.
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