Joules Burn
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Morris
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2023
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 59
- Reaction score
- 153
- Location
- California
- Vehicles
- 2023 R1S, 2022 Kia EV6 GT-L FE
- Occupation
- Retired Electronics
- Thread starter
- #1
Now that I have irritated the grammarians…
The good news - I got my R1S a year ahead of schedule. The bad news - they took away the 12 volt outlets in the dash and the frunk. (I do hope it was a supply chain issue and not a cost cutting attempt or utility decision, lest we question the validity of their future decisions.)
I decided that i really didn’t need an outlet in the frunk for any immediate purpose. Consequently, I opted for two 12 volt outlets under the dash where I am going to need them. Hence, more better.
Amazon has a variety of options. Many may be delivered in a Rivian van.
The fuse panel is in the most UN-user friendly location possible.
There are two driver-side panel covers - one just behind and the other to the right of the knee airbag. Each has a #25 torx screw and really tight straight insertion clips.
The center panel is accessed by removing the portable speaker, pulling up the rubber mat, and popping open the panel with a plastic pry tool. (Really tight clips here too.)
I used the 20 amp fuse locations of F46, 12 volt port one and F51, 12 volt port two. Other folks have explored that uncharted territory and documented the fuse layout in other posts.
I couldn’t find a pigtail adapter with connectors that held snuggly. I didn’t want them becoming disconnected on a bumpy road. Consequently, I went with standard spade connectors with the positive line and put the fuses in the outlet housing. Fuse access will be much easier in the future. I do NOT want to crawl under there again!
For the ground terminals, I found a pre-drilled hole in the top of the metal frame at the right of the center panel. A #12 self-drilling hex head screw threaded perfectly tight.
The mounting spot for the socket assembly is just above the rubber mat edge.
Now I can plug in a satellite based GPS and a communications transceiver when I want to adventure out of the soccer-mom parking lot.
The good news - I got my R1S a year ahead of schedule. The bad news - they took away the 12 volt outlets in the dash and the frunk. (I do hope it was a supply chain issue and not a cost cutting attempt or utility decision, lest we question the validity of their future decisions.)
I decided that i really didn’t need an outlet in the frunk for any immediate purpose. Consequently, I opted for two 12 volt outlets under the dash where I am going to need them. Hence, more better.
Amazon has a variety of options. Many may be delivered in a Rivian van.
The fuse panel is in the most UN-user friendly location possible.
There are two driver-side panel covers - one just behind and the other to the right of the knee airbag. Each has a #25 torx screw and really tight straight insertion clips.
The center panel is accessed by removing the portable speaker, pulling up the rubber mat, and popping open the panel with a plastic pry tool. (Really tight clips here too.)
I used the 20 amp fuse locations of F46, 12 volt port one and F51, 12 volt port two. Other folks have explored that uncharted territory and documented the fuse layout in other posts.
I couldn’t find a pigtail adapter with connectors that held snuggly. I didn’t want them becoming disconnected on a bumpy road. Consequently, I went with standard spade connectors with the positive line and put the fuses in the outlet housing. Fuse access will be much easier in the future. I do NOT want to crawl under there again!
For the ground terminals, I found a pre-drilled hole in the top of the metal frame at the right of the center panel. A #12 self-drilling hex head screw threaded perfectly tight.
The mounting spot for the socket assembly is just above the rubber mat edge.
Now I can plug in a satellite based GPS and a communications transceiver when I want to adventure out of the soccer-mom parking lot.
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