My EV Sportline CarPlay Display Hidden Wires Install

[pangpang77]

I got my CarPlay unit from EV Sportline yesterday. There are other threads, but just wanted to provide my perspective. I had a couple of twists that may make it a bit of a different install 1) I hid the wires under the dash panel (similar to the mount for the unit) across to the driver’s side door so the wire is completely hidden and 2) I split the power from the fuse tap to also power a MagSafe phone mount.

I previously owned an Ottocast CarPlay unit, but had some issues with it with inconsistent connection (not always connect to my phone on its own without playing with Bluetooth settings) and sound would primarily go to the CarPlay unit’s own speaker instead of the Rivian speakers through Bluetooth. I also had a Garmin OBD powering the unit and would cause the unit to stay on at least 30 minutes after shutdown.

With the EV Sportline here are the main observations:

1) The connection is very snappy and reliable
2) The sound always goes to the Rivian speakers even when I summon Siri (which didn’t happen with the Ottocast)
3) The mounting location and mount itself make the install look professional
4) I was able to tap power for both CarPlay and my phone and know it shuts down once the car is off or goes to sleep without worry of extra draw from the battery.
5) I was able to hide all wires for a clean / professional look

Very happy and highly recommended.

In order to hide all wires I had to open up a couple more panels one under the dash and one to the side on the driver’s side.

Please make sure that the fuse tap wire is moved away from the steering wheel column. At one point I heard the wire catching as I turned the steering wheel so I needed to adjust.

Please see the pictures. I have a few extra pictures that help supplement what is already in the video and I show the picture of the panel with the T20 Torx scre, how I set up a USB-C hub for dual power and how I routed the wires.

It was late in the day so I’ll take some more pics during the day.

The last picture shows no exposed wires.

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[DoubleTake]

Clean install

 

[BCondrey]

Nice job!

 

[Polar]

Smooth install - well done mate.

 

[HenryThe8th]

Is there a trim tool? I just know if I tried this I would butcher my dash.
(and great job!)

 

[pangpang77]

Thanks everyone.

Yes, trim tools are a must for both the CarPlay device/bracket and the wires. I was uncomfortable sticking an actual screw driver into the dash panel up top which the video shows.

Felt much more comfortable with trim tool. Inexpensive but necessary investment:

https://www.amazon.com/AXELECT-Removal-Scratch-Fastener-Interior/dp/B09TVMJD11/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1DBU5JY8VXKE7&keywords=trim+tool&qid=1703527353&sprefix=trim+tool,aps,81&sr=8-4

 

[EV Sportline]

I got my CarPlay unit from EV Sportline yesterday. There are other threads, but just wanted to provide my perspective. I had a couple of twists that may make it a bit of a different install 1) I hid the wires under the dash panel (similar to the mount for the unit) across to the driver’s side door so the wire is completely hidden and 2) I split the power from the fuse tap to also power a MagSafe phone mount.

I previously owned an Ottocast CarPlay unit, but had some issues with it with inconsistent connection (not always connect to my phone on its own without playing with Bluetooth settings) and sound would primarily go to the CarPlay unit’s own speaker instead of the Rivian speakers through Bluetooth. I also had a Garmin OBD powering the unit and would cause the unit to stay on at least 30 minutes after shutdown.

With the EV Sportline here are the main observations:

1) The connection is very snappy and reliable
2) The sound always goes to the Rivian speakers even when I summon Siri (which didn’t happen with the Ottocast)
3) The mounting location and mount itself make the install look professional
4) I was able to tap power for both CarPlay and my phone and know it shuts down once the car is off or goes to sleep without worry of extra draw from the battery.
5) I was able to hide all wires for a clean / professional look

Very happy and highly recommended.

In order to hide all wires I had to open up a couple more panels one under the dash and one to the side on the driver’s side.

Please make sure that the fuse tap wire is moved away from the steering wheel column. At one point I heard the wire catching as I turned the steering wheel so I needed to adjust.

Please see the pictures. I have a few extra pictures that help supplement what is already in the video and I show the picture of the panel with the T20 Torx scre, how I set up a USB-C hub for dual power and how I routed the wires.

It was late in the day so I’ll take some more pics during the day.

The last picture shows no exposed wires.

Wow, this is great - thanks for the share, pro-grade install!

 

[pangpang77]

Wow, this is great - thanks for the share, pro-grade install!

Thanks @EV Sportline, you made it easy. The bracket and fuse tap are super plug-n-play and the sound prioritization and zippy response are such subtle but critical features for a great user interface.

 

[pangpang77]

Here are just a few more daytime pics.

So much cleaner compared with my previous Ottocast.

My previous Ottocast display using the Garmin OBD USB power. Returning this one.

 

[KBabione]

Nice job - thanks for the description, photos, and link to the trim tools!

 

[Lizardo]

Picked up trim tools.

not confident enough to do an install like this. Plan on using the 12v under dash.

 

[pangpang77]

Picked up trim tools.

not confident enough to do an install like this. Plan on using the 12v under dash.

If you take your time, it’s really not that hard. The trim tools help pry the trims open then with some finger pressure the trims come off relatively easily (and go back too).

 

[LL75]

If you take your time, it’s really not that hard. The trim tools help pry the trims open then with some finger pressure the trims come off relatively easily (and go back too).

^^^ this. I opened the side panel to hide the wire for the OBD II. It is quite easy and to unsnap and put back

 

[pangpang77]

I ended up removing the USB-C/splitter from the fuse tap. It powered the EV Sportline CarPlay unit well, but MagSafe mount was charging but it was down to a trickling.

So I reconnected the MagSafe mount to a Garmin OBD-II w/10 minute shut-down after the car goes to sleep. So the fuse tap is just enough for the CarPlay unit.

So now I have a mirror tap for a dashcam, fuse tap for CarPlay and OBD-II to USB for a MagSafe mount. All probably would have easily been solved if Rivian had left the under dash 12v port for us newer owners…

But I’m happy that everything shuts off when I shut the car down with no worry of unnecessary 12v battery drain.

 

[brancky3]

I ended up removing the USB-C/splitter from the fuse tap. It powered the EV Sportline CarPlay unit well, but MagSafe mount was charging but it was down to a trickling.

So I reconnected the MagSafe mount to a Garmin OBD-II w/10 minute shut-down after the car goes to sleep. So the fuse tap is just enough for the CarPlay unit.

Curious, with the CarPlay unit now on your dash, why are you still using the MagSafe mount for your phone?

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