Removable KC roof lights setup on Rivian, 000=000

[IGR]

Hello everyone!

My childhood dream: always wanted a pickup truck with cool off-road lights…

To keep things organized I will split this in two sections, electrical where you can find useful tips for wiring to apply to your project, and mechanical, where I go over briefly how I put the whole thing together, specific to these KC lights.

If forgot anything I will edit this thread to add more info.

More pictures are posted here: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/no-trouble-in-soft-sand-with-my-qm-r1s.24580/

To mount lights and have crossbar adjustable, I split 6 pods into two groups of 3, which fits nicely on each leg of the cross bar. Bonus her is that it can be places on any mounting point on the roof of Rivian, you pick the look you want. I choose the middle and there is no light bleed into the cabin through glass roof

Part 1, Electrical:

Parts list:
39" KC Gravity6 LED lights: https://www.kchilites.com/gravity-led-pro6-led-light-bar.html?attr_pim_psize=5847
11 ft 14awg wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RSRBZZD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Automotive connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JQ2JGXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Remote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4V92LK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
(this remote is garbage do not wire it directly to power lead, I used it to control relay, more details later)

Summary:
My Rivian came with a single 12v battery and a capacitor.
Lights were hooked up to capacitor side due to available mounting post (M6 thread).
11ft 14AWG wire was used, worked fine with 10.5 amp measured current draw with minimal voltage drop.
Also, this is not a permanent install by design, to avoid wind noise and possible efficiency loss while driving on highway.
There were no electrical issues observed while using the lights.
I was on software 2024.03.02 in case there are any questions regarding vehicle health reports in the future.

First thing, I reused many components that came with KC light kit, so if you see something in pictures without reference thats most likely why. I will try my best to describe everything.

Here is how I connected wire with fuse housing to the capacitor/battery, the post is M6 if I remember correctly:

Here you can see where I connected ground, its a good idea to test it for resistance with negative post on battery as there were few posts on chassis that looked good but had high resistance, this would cause voltage to drop in line which will make LED drivers to up the current to compensate which in turn will make things hot, can further increase resistance in line, the vicious cycle will continue until fuse pops or something bad happens. The black wire in the center of the picture is ground:

Next, after everything is connected and fused, the wire is terminated with automotive connector and routed to the compartment where hood hinges are. Remember that this is removable setup, so when I remove the light bar, I disconnect 11 ft wire with remote switch.
The part where you see white loop is the dust cover for 12 volt line:

This is the remote controller wired to the automotive relay that came with the KC lights:

And this is how it looks all bundled up with 11 ft 14awg cord attached, this is not an electrical tape btw, but a fabric type used in harness assembly in cars etc:

This is pretty much it for electrical.
First I position lights on the roof, then wire is connected and routed in between panel gaps on the roof and windshield, you may want to examine your truck to see which side has greater panel gaps for easier wire routing, the relay with receiver is tucked away under the flap in cavity for hood hinge mechanism (shown in previous picture, third from the top)

Part 2, Mechanical:

Parts list:
Brackets if you buying 6 light bar and splitting it in two: KC#35609AK PRO6- END MNT ASSY V2- DS $17.49
Other bracket: KC#35608AK PRO6- END MNT ASSY V2- PS $17.49
SHLDR BOLT, M10-1.5 X 50 w/NUT
BOLT- M4X40- SOC CAP
Mounting brackets need 4 toatal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NP14Q3K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
M8 T-slot bolt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNQW7PCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Nord-Lock Wedge Locking Washers for M8, need 8. I got them a while ago from McMaster but i think amazon sells them too.

First step, if you decide to buy 6-light setup and split it in two groups of 3 you will need to reach out to KC support and ask for additional mounting brackets:

Alternatively you could buy two 3-light kits (20"), but 6-light kit will be cheaper.

Light mounted to crossbar close up:

Yes i took those in the kitchen

Here you can also see I 3D printed nut covers for aesthetics.

The grey rounded part is for flag pole mounting, also 3D printed. Flag is required for dunes. If there is interest I can make thread about that as well.

How it is stored in the fronk while not in use, of course I don't keep it there all the time:

The end result:

This is how it looks if you flash them, don't do that on the streets btw:

Hope this was helpful to someone, and it goes without saying that ultimately you do this at your own risk. So please be careful! And good luck!

Edit:
This is also part of the install, to reduce sand and dirt getting in the slots on the crossbar: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-noise-requires-3d-printer.24738/#post-491938

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[ferdba77]

Can you get a picture inside the door where the wiring runs please?

 

[bbonkk]

Hello everyone!

My childhood dream: always wanted a pickup truck with cool off-road lights…

To keep things organized I will split this in two sections, electrical where you can find useful tips for wiring to apply to your project, and mechanical, where I go over briefly how I put the whole thing together, specific to these KC lights.

If forgot anything I will edit this thread to add more info.

More pictures are posted here: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/no-trouble-in-soft-sand-with-my-qm-r1s.24580/

To mount lights and have crossbar adjustable, I split 6 pods into two groups of 3, which fits nicely on each leg of the cross bar. Bonus her is that it can be places on any mounting point on the roof of Rivian, you pick the look you want. I choose the middle and there is no light bleed into the cabin through glass roof

Part 1, Electrical:

Parts list:
39" KC Gravity6 LED lights: https://www.kchilites.com/gravity-led-pro6-led-light-bar.html?attr_pim_psize=5847
11 ft 14awg wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RSRBZZD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Automotive connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JQ2JGXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Remote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4V92LK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
(this remote is garbage do not wire it directly to power lead, I used it to control relay, more details later)

Summary:
My Rivian came with a single 12v battery and a capacitor.
Lights were hooked up to capacitor side due to available mounting post (M6 thread).
11ft 14AWG wire was used, worked fine with 10.5 amp measured current draw with minimal voltage drop.
Also, this is not a permanent install by design, to avoid wind noise and possible efficiency loss while driving on highway.
There were no electrical issues observed while using the lights.
I was on software 2024.03.02 in case there are any questions regarding vehicle health reports in the future.

First thing, I reused many components that came with KC light kit, so if you see something in pictures without reference thats most likely why. I will try my best to describe everything.

Here is how I connected wire with fuse housing to the capacitor/battery, the post is M6 if I remember correctly:

Here you can see where I connected ground, its a good idea to test it for resistance with negative post on battery as there were few posts on chassis that looked good but had high resistance, this would cause voltage to drop in line which will make LED drivers to up the current to compensate which in turn will make things hot, can further increase resistance in line, the vicious cycle will continue until fuse pops or something bad happens. The black wire in the center of the picture is ground:

Next, after everything is connected and fused, the wire is terminated with automotive connector and routed to the compartment where hood hinges are. Remember that this is removable setup, so when I remove the light bar, I disconnect 11 ft wire with remote switch.
The part where you see white loop is the dust cover for 12 volt line:

This is the remote controller wired to the automotive relay that came with the KC lights:

And this is how it looks all bundled up with 11 ft 14awg cord attached, this is not an electrical tape btw, but a fabric type used in harness assembly in cars etc:

This is pretty much it for electrical.
First I position lights on the roof, then wire is connected and routed in between panel gaps on the roof and windshield, you may want to examine your truck to see which side has greater panel gaps for easier wire routing, the relay with receiver is tucked away under the flap in cavity for hood hinge mechanism (shown in previous picture, third from the top)

Part 2, Mechanical:

Parts list:
Brackets if you buying 6 light bar and splitting it in two: KC#35609AK PRO6- END MNT ASSY V2- DS $17.49
Other bracket: KC#35608AK PRO6- END MNT ASSY V2- PS $17.49
SHLDR BOLT, M10-1.5 X 50 w/NUT
BOLT- M4X40- SOC CAP
Mounting brackets need 4 toatal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NP14Q3K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
M8 T-slot bolt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNQW7PCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Nord-Lock Wedge Locking Washers for M8, need 8. I got them a while ago from McMaster but i think amazon sells them too.

First step, if you decide to buy 6-light setup and split it in two groups of 3 you will need to reach out to KC support and ask for additional mounting brackets:

Alternatively you could buy two 3-light kits (20"), but 6-light kit will be cheaper.

Light mounted to crossbar close up:

Yes i took those in the kitchen

Here you can also see I 3D printed nut covers for aesthetics.

The grey rounded part is for flag pole mounting, also 3D printed. Flag is required for dunes. If there is interest I can make thread about that as well.

How it is stored in the fronk while not in use, of course I don't keep it there all the time:

The end result:

This is how it looks if you flash them, don't do that on the streets btw:

Hope this was helpful to someone, and it goes without saying that ultimately you do this at your own risk. So please be careful! And good luck!

Edit:
This is also part of the install, to reduce sand and dirt getting in the slots on the crossbar: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-noise-requires-3d-printer.24738/#post-491938

Great job, hope to see it on the dirt some time. Say hi the Kyle on the in your kitchen

 

[IGR]

Can you get a picture inside the door where the wiring runs please?

It doesn’t run inside the door.
wire is outside in the gap between windshield and A-pillar.

 

[Polar]

Curious as to light carry over in the cabin through the ceiling glass - is there much present (have any images?)?

great write up by the way!!

 

[WSea]

Looks great! Curious why you don't mount closer to front instead of using middle roof mount

 

[IGR]

Curious as to light carry over in the cabin through the ceiling glass - is there much present (have any images?)?

great write up by the way!!

Thank you. And no I don’t notice anything going through the glass, KC has very good light collimation, so not much of that light is waisted going where it is not supposed to go.
Efficiency and all these specs was the reason I picked KC btw.
I don’t have any pictures from the inside unfortunately, I’ll check later if I have any videos.

 

[IGR]

Looks great! Curious why you don't mount closer to front instead of using middle roof mount

Just a preference, I like how it looks

 

[ActionableDave]

Just a preference, I like how it looks

I thought it may have been due to the light shining into the cabin if it was too far forward, is that an issue at all if they are mounted further forward?

 

[IGR]

I thought it may have been due to the light shining into the cabin if it was too far forward, is that an issue at all if they are mounted further forward?

I cant really tell, only turned them on when they are installed in the middle position.
There could be some stray light going into the middle seat, but I just didn’t bother to check at the time, as you can see the dashboard stays dark:

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