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emroch

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IMHO it's more important to provide easy access to terminals you can use to jump-start a dead battery. I assume the R2 has a location to do that either in the frunk or at the back of the vehicle.
There is a 12v harness behind a panel on the back bumper.
Rivian R1T R1S R2 12V Battery Location - Photo IMG_0131
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kanefsky

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Tesla designed the external bumper access system so it only works when the vehicle is completely dead. So going up to the emergency access point and testing cars to open won't work unless a thief just happens to stumble along a Tesla with a dead battery. Which I would guess isn't a really efficient way of finding stuff to steal.
That wasn't the case on my older Model S. It had a hidden purely mechanical frunk release. I'm glad they fixed it though.
 
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There is a 12v harness behind a panel on the back bumper.
IMG_0131.webp
Those wires look like they are 12 awg. Goes right into a similar color sheath, so I can't say what the temp rating is, but it's obviously meant to be temporary at these dimensions.
Rivian R1T R1S R2 12V Battery Location - Photo 1784398625236-b2

PPS, I need a new battery cover on my caliper...
 
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what was the process to take the seat base off?
Super easy, just pull up. From experience, I expected there to be a trick. No trick, just pull up.

Rivian R1T R1S R2 12V Battery Location - Photo 1784412228202-f2
 

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Now need to know more about clearing codes if I change it myself. I've seen posts about going into the service menu to do it. Others that say rebooting the car or driving for a while or a combination of all these. Tesla has made it cheap enough that just paying them to proactively replace the battery every 3-4 years under $200 sounds fine to me but reading posts about Rivian charging $600-700 doesn't sound too good. The fact that the 12v only has a 36 month warranty is concerning so a DIY answer would help.
 

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Thank you for the photo. Accessing the battery is convenient, but, am I correct from other statements/posts that replacing the battery won't be possible by the owner (because of codes and such)?
Worst case scenario is you hook up another battery in parallel and then remove the old battery and replace it. You can also use a 12V charger. I would swap out batteries in old oscilloscopes this way. The scopes would lose all the stored memory if you removed the back up battery. Putting the battery in the circuit keeps everything normal so no error codes...
 

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Worst case scenario is you hook up another battery in parallel and then remove the old battery and replace it. You can also use a 12V charger. I would swap out batteries in old oscilloscopes this way. The scopes would lose all the stored memory if you removed the back up battery. Putting the battery in the circuit keeps everything normal so no error codes...
I love it as long as DIYers know to swap it before codes pop up. If they wait to get a warning that it needs replacing or they are already locked out with a dead 12v, things may get a little more iffy.
 

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I love it as long as DIYers know to swap it before codes pop up. If they wait to get a warning that it needs replacing or they are already locked out with a dead 12v, things may get a little more iffy.
Agree 100%
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