k3g's R1T build thread

[Whale Blubber]

Really cool thread! Hope you'll continue to share your progress.

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[Blueassassin]

Any updates to this?

 

[k3g]

Any updates to this?

Sure, here's a few updates!

I added a builtright molle panel on the left side of the bed, and then bolted an Apex Offroad Compact Reel to it:

My interrobang tonneau cover came in:

I got third in a rallycross:

Otherwise, I've just been busy using the truck.

 

[iansriv]

Damn that looks great! Love all your mods. And here are ppl worried about voiding their warranties with tint on the roof!

 

[Donald Stanfield]

It's cool to see how creative some people are. Nice build.

 

[Blueassassin]

Sure, here's a few updates!

I added a builtright molle panel on the left side of the bed, and then bolted an Apex Offroad Compact Reel to it:

My interrobang tonneau cover came in:

I got third in a rallycross:

Otherwise, I've just been busy using the truck.

That Reel is cool!

 

[k3g]

So, I didn't like how my air reel was mounted. Having the fairlead pointed up wasn't the best for coiling it, speed, etc. Also, a bit of rallycrossing was all it took to wiggle it loose. Time for a proper bracket! A little bit of cardboard trimming, sharpie work, and CAD later...

I've got a pattern sent off the sendcutsend for laser cutting and powder coat, and will update here how the install goes!

 

[k3g]

Air reel drop brackets are in! They fit just fine:

Here's a DXF of the part. If you happen to want to put an air reel onto your truck using a builtright panel, upload this file to sendcutsend or oshcut. The one pictured is made of 0.125" (3.2mm) 5052 H32 aluminum, and I had them powdercoat it black.

Edit: Installing the air reel in this position means the spare tire door can't open very far. In my case that's fine, but be warned, getting the tire and wheel out with it barely open requires significant upper body strength.

 

[aPOY]

Air reel drop brackets are in! They fit just fine:

Here's a DXF of the part. If you happen to want to put an air reel onto your truck using a builtright panel, upload this file to sendcutsend or oshcut. The one pictured is made of 0.125" (3.2mm) 5052 H32 aluminum, and I had them powdercoat it black.

Edit: Installing the air reel in this position means the spare tire door can't open very far. In my case that's fine, but be warned, getting the tire and wheel out with it barely open requires significant upper body strength.

I love your Air reel mod! I’m thinking of doing the same.

Questions:
Are the brackets being sold from Apex webpage not good enough? Also is the blue hose on the pics came with the reel order or is that a different brand?

You made a great point on the real location that it’s going to be harder to access the spare tire compartment. Have you tried other positions within that builtright molle panel?

 

[k3g]

I love your Air reel mod! I’m thinking of doing the same.

Questions:
Are the brackets being sold from Apex webpage not good enough? Also is the blue hose on the pics came with the reel order or is that a different brand?

You made a great point on the real location that it’s going to be harder to access the spare tire compartment. Have you tried other positions within that builtright molle panel?

The universal bracket on their site would put the reel further out, and rotated 90 degrees. I preferred the upright position.

Regarding other places on the molle, no I haven't tried any others yet. I've thought about moving it to the front corner: I could access it by sliding my interrobang cover just one panel out. Someday I'd like a powered tonneau, but for now I'm fine with the location. Maybe I'll try the other location and see how easy it is to access.

The blue air hose is just some 3/8 ptfe with a push-to-connect fitting threaded into the reel, and a another ptc threaded into a air hose qd.

 

[k3g]

On a roadtrip from CA to the Pike's Peak Hillclimb race, my truck gave me a lot of issues. I didn't post much about it here, but our trip had so many wrenches thrown into it that we started steadily changing Rivian's "stay adventurous" thing into a somewhat sarcastic "Are YOU staying adventure?" every time some new twist came up. We made big decals of it and threw them on our stuff on the way back to make light of all the shenanigans like a truck failing to charge, a displaced rear axle in a tacoma, a failing wheelspeed sensor, a drone stuck in, and then shot down from a tree.

You can see the decals here, outside Ouray CO:

Anyway, the big hasty decals we cut out on a friend's cricut while far from home were a bit big for my tastes, so I finally got around to making a slimmer one that still keeps the question out there: Are YOU staying adventure?"

Also a spoiler for what's coming:

 

[k3g]

I ordered some Megawatt rock sliders a while back, and they've come in!

The install was super easy, there's great videos and instructions from Electruck4x4 on how to get them on the truck. I used my badlands jack to easily position the sliders while I worked on them.

Installed, they've got great wheel to wheel coverage, with nearly no clearance impact. I've had tough sliders on other trucks (bamf sliders on my taco, for example), and these are in the same league for sure. Really high quality welds, beefy steel components. Very good product, I recommend them.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Incredible build, amazing work! One of the things I've been most hoping to move over from my Bronco to the R1S when it arrives is my ICOM HAM radio setup. Can you share more details on final mounting positions and cable runs? The firewall seems straight forward to use for the antenna cable, but did you end up running power through the firewall as well to power your radio? My ID-5100A draws around 150W at peak, and usually you get the best results wiring directly to the power source itself.

 

[k3g]

Incredible build, amazing work! One of the things I've been most hoping to move over from my Bronco to the R1S when it arrives is my ICOM HAM radio setup. Can you share more details on final mounting positions and cable runs? The firewall seems straight forward to use for the antenna cable, but did you end up running power through the firewall as well to power your radio? My ID-5100A draws around 150W at peak, and usually you get the best results wiring directly to the power source itself.

Yes, now my antenna is through the firewall. Power isn't, I haven't bothered to rewire my radio to be off a circuit controller. It's just wired to the 12v socket under the dash computer.

I'm planning some pretty extensive wiring changes coming soon for a bigger project that'll involve changing that. Most likely going to move the GMRS radio under the frunk tub, and running the handset cable back into the cabin.

My radios are only 50w, so I have much less draw than you.

 

[Fozzy]

On a roadtrip from CA to the Pike's Peak Hillclimb race, my truck gave me a lot of issues. I didn't post much about it here, but our trip had so many wrenches thrown into it that we started steadily changing Rivian's "stay adventurous" thing into a somewhat sarcastic "Are YOU staying adventure?" every time some new twist came up. We made big decals of it and threw them on our stuff on the way back to make light of all the shenanigans like a truck failing to charge, a displaced rear axle in a tacoma, a failing wheelspeed sensor, a drone stuck in, and then shot down from a tree.

I'm interested to hear what sort of problems you had with your R1T. If you already posted them elsewhere and don't feel like rehashing it could you drop a link (if that's allowed here)?

Thanks

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