Any tests done on Vampire battery drain?

[Max]

That represents a loss of a little over 1 kWh - just about the full capacity of a 100 Ah-12V lead acid battery.

Great point. His 1.6 KWh daily loss (which seem to be the best scenario case) could kill those 21A batteries very quickly. It seems like rejuicing system will be working over time with not much time for a nap.

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[Max]

My observation on my truck which was delivered 10 days ago. 65% SOC and 201 miles range on display. Gear guard, WiFi, Proximity locking, climate controls all off. Rivian phone app shut down. Doors locked. Truck 100 feet away from me in a detached garage. 18 hours later I have 64% SOC and 198 miles indicated range so just a 3 mile range loss. Ambient temps around 70 deg.

since your test was during an 18 hr period not 24, it makes me wonder if when you started the test, the temp was 70 and it was 65 degree when you ended it, if some of the range loss was not a real loss and due to lower temperature. lot of assumptions here; one there was a temp difference, two, Rivian uses that temp for calculation.

 

[Budman]

since your test was during an 18 hr period not 24, it makes me wonder if when you started the test, the temp was 70 and it was 65 degree when you ended it, if some of the range loss was not a real loss and due to lower temperature. lot of assumptions here; one there was a temp difference, two, Rivian uses that temp for calculation.

Temperature can certainly impact the range estimate. But my garage is well insulated so I don’t think the temperature was changing much overnight.

 

[Rousie13]

I just recently got my R1T so trying things to keep my vampire draw as low as possible. In 15 hours the EVSE added 1.05kWh with the music paused, doors unlocked with the proximity on in the truck but the truck is “home”, AC off, WiFi on, gearguard on but off at “home”,and Rivian app closed on my phone. I did not restart my phone after I closed the Rivian app. I restarted my phone to see if that impacts anything.

The temperature in the garage ranged between 75 and 83.

 

[CommodoreAmiga]

I just recently got my R1T so trying things to keep my vampire draw as low as possible. In 15 hours the EVSE added 1.05kWh with the music paused, doors unlocked with the proximity on in the truck but the truck is “home”, AC off, WiFi on, and Rivian app closed on my phone. I did not restart my phone after I closed the Rivian app. I restarted my phone to see if that impacts anything.

I think vehicle locked would be best for low draw.

 

[staples]

Are you pulling the data from the API?

Yes, through Home Assistant. https://github.com/bretterer/home-assistant-rivian

 

[Rousie13]

I just recently got my R1T so trying things to keep my vampire draw as low as possible. In 15 hours the EVSE added 1.05kWh with the music paused, doors unlocked with the proximity on in the truck but the truck is “home”, AC off, WiFi on, gearguard on but off at “home”,and Rivian app closed on my phone. I did not restart my phone after I closed the Rivian app. I restarted my phone to see if that impacts anything.

The temperature in the garage ranged between 75 and 83.

Update: Its been 26 hours and the truck just finished charging. I started the time just after the truck finished charging and stopped the time just after it finished charging. The EVSE had 1.94kWh go through it over the course of 26 hours. I never opened the Rivian app during that time.

 

[Rousie13]

So I did another trial yesterday/today. Again I had the music paused, doors locked with the proximity on in the truck, AC off, WiFi on, gearguard on but off at “home”, and Rivian app closed on my phone. I restarted my phone after I closed the Rivian app.

So for this trial the doors were locked compared to the truck being unlocked for the previous test.

After 12 hours 1.44kWh have gone through the EVSE. For the unlocked trial the truck requested 1.94kWh for a period of 26 hours, so based on this having the truck unlocked is best.

 

[Max]

So I did another trial yesterday/today. Again I had the music paused, doors locked with the proximity on in the truck, AC off, WiFi on, gearguard on but off at “home”, and Rivian app closed on my phone. I restarted my phone after I closed the Rivian app.

So for this trial the doors were locked compared to the truck being unlocked for the previous test.

After 12 hours 1.44kWh have gone through the EVSE. For the unlocked trial the truck requested 1.94kWh for a period of 26 hours, so based on this having the truck unlocked is best.

I am not sure if I understand this correctly. Do you have your R1T plugged in while doing these tests? And did your gear guard record anything for this test? I assume it consume more energy when recording.

 

[CommodoreAmiga]

I am not sure if I understand this correctly. Do you have your R1T plugged in while doing these tests? And did your gear guard record anything for this test? I assume it consume more energy when recording.

I have my GearGuard configured to be "off" when at home, and when in my garage I can confirm the GearGuard screen says it is "home"... But you can still see infrared lights active in each of the cameras around the vehicle.

I strongly suspect that even when not showing you videos in the UI the cameras are still always active.

 

[Rousie13]

I am not sure if I understand this correctly. Do you have your R1T plugged in while doing these tests? And did your gear guard record anything for this test? I assume it consume more energy when recording.

Yes, the R1T is plugged in so I can see exactly what the truck is requesting from the EVSE to stay at 70%. This way I can monitor the truck without opening the app, going to the truck, etc.

So I have GearGuard on except at home. The truck is parked at home, so it is not recording anything. However, like @CommodoreAmiga said, you can still see red lights in the cameras.

I’m not sure if the power usage would go down a lot/or any with GearGuard completely off for the truck unlocked or locked at home.

 

[Max]

Yes, the R1T is plugged in so I can see exactly what the truck is requesting from the EVSE to stay at 70%. This way I can monitor the truck without opening the app, going to the truck, etc.

So I have GearGuard on except at home. The truck is parked at home, so it is not recording anything. However, like @CommodoreAmiga said, you can still see red lights in the cameras.

I’m not sure if the power usage would go down a lot/or any with GearGuard completely off for the truck unlocked or locked at home.

Thanks for explaining it to me. It is a smart way of measuring it. I wonder if the truck gets more hungry when it is at the all you can eat buffet (plugged in). In other words if you have it unplugged with the same settings, will it take the same amount of power to bring it back up to 70%? After all, parasitic loss becomes even more important when you are away from a plug.

 

[DJG]

Thanks for explaining it to me. It is a smart way of measuring it. I wonder if the truck gets more hungry when it is at the all you can eat buffet (plugged in). In other words if you have it unplugged with the same settings, will it take the same amount of power to bring it back up to 70%? After all, parasitic loss becomes even more important when you are away from a plug.

It absolutely uses more energy to charge back up, and isn't the correct way to measure the drain. It's measuring the energy required from the wall to get back to a base state, not what the drain out of the battery was.

A simplistic adjustment would be subtracting about 10% from the energy put back in to measure what was actually lost. That extra amount is real in that it is an expense, but it's not technically part of what the drain was if you're trying to extrapolate to how much SoC you'll lose over XX period of time.

The most exact measurement of any discussed would be to open the service menu and record the exact total energy in the pack (which shows to several decimal places I believe) at the beginning and end of a certain time period.

 

[Attesan997]

Anecdotal but it's day one of the truck getting PPF done. It sat all day yesterday outside and started the day inside today. So far it's lost 2% since I dropped it off yesterday morning. I'm planning to pick up Saturday so am hoping that drain continues at the same rate because I might have forgotten to charge to a high SOC before the hour trip to drop off. I know there's an EA charger a few miles away so it should all work out.

 

[Rousie13]

It absolutely uses more energy to charge back up, and isn't the correct way to measure the drain. It's measuring the energy required from the wall to get back to a base state, not what the drain out of the battery was.

A simplistic adjustment would be subtracting about 10% from the energy put back in to measure what was actually lost. That extra amount is real in that it is an expense, but it's not technically part of what the drain was if you're trying to extrapolate to how much SoC you'll lose over XX period of time.

The most exact measurement of any discussed would be to open the service menu and record the exact total energy in the pack (which shows to several decimal places I believe) at the beginning and end of a certain time period.

I fully agree with what you're saying here. My testing will not tell me exactly how much vampire lose/parasitic loss the truck actually has, but it will tell me exactly how much extra I'll be spending everyday on my electric bill. This is what I was going for to see what settings I can change on the truck to reduce how much $$ I'm wasting on a daily basis for the truck just sitting there. Obviously in the grand scheme of things, it's not much $$ per day, but if I can reduce waste as much as possible with a few setting tweaks on the truck, then I will do it. I just wanted to share what I was seeing to try and help someone else do the same without having to go through these steps.

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