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DannyC

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This is long but technical, if it does happen to you and your stranded you may be able to get going with a 12 volt power supply of some sort with these details.

Happened on October 29th. Went out to check out the Halloween Easter egg and the truck would not unlock, rear brake lights were dimly flashing and that was it! Could not unlock the truck, nothing! Truck was charged to 70% overnight, not cold here in San Diego, maybe got into the 60s at night. I know I checked the charge earlier in the morning and it showed online and charged up as normal. I tried to crack the windows from the app and it never responded and I did not think anything of it at the time. Had the latest update when it died as it had the Halloween surprise in it that I wanted to see.

So I called Rivian service and of course they could not see it online. They were not going to be able to help m on the phone and I decided to pull the 12v jump cords out from the rear bumper and hook up a 12v power supply. According the manual up to 30amp, I just happen to have a 12v 30amp power supply so I connected it up. First I read the power with a meter and 0 volts. Either there is a diode or something to prevent power from flowing back or it was that dead. Here is my hookup.

Rivian R1T R1S 12 volt system totally died, bricked truck... Still waiting for Rivian to review logs and tell me why! 1668312997226


After hooking up the power lights activated and with the remote I was able to "very slowly" unlock the doors and get in. Driver window would only go down about 1 inch at a time, obviously the 12v was very dead. Computer tried to boot up but just never quite made it all the way, tried for about 30 minutes then gave up. Here is a video of what it looks/sounds like.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mHBuLCeG3ic4sSVV6

Another strange observation was that the truck was in the high suspension mode, did not leave it that way.

Disconnected everything, pulled out as much as I could get access to, did not feel like taking apart fender to get to fronk manual release. Called Rivian again and they were going to have it towed... Not sure how you drag a 7,200 plus pound truck up while it is stuck in park. Apparently there is a manual release for the parking brake but I don't know if the tow truck driver would know how to do that.

Monday comes and no word yet from Rivian, I called them and they decided it would be better to have a mobile tech come out. That is what I was hoping for!

Tech shows up before 9am and got into the fronk through the manual pull and then starts getting access to the batteries, real nice guy, believe his name is Greg. Very knowledgeable and I asked a lot of questions so hopefully I did not bug him too much. Batteries were very dead and I learned that the 12v jump in the back only connects to the main 12v battery.

So yes there are 2 AGM 12 volt batteries, they are NOT connected in any way to each other outside of a common ground. there is a shut on the negative terminals and they are "smart" shunts and actually have a processor on them of some sort. There are roughly 6 or 7 positive terminals on top with integrated fuses, so a massive pain to get to if you had a blown fuse! He connected up both new batteries and charged them up together. Then he held the negative wires over their terminals and it looks like he was praying for a few seconds. He said both batteries need to be connected at the exact same time. He held them there then listened for a relay to click after about 10 or 15 seconds. Then he let go of the left one, tightened up the right negative terminal, then tightened up the left negative terminal.

Both batteries were replaced with new ones but he seemed to think the old ones were not damaged.

Now the truck came to life! He connected his laptop up to the ODB2 port with a network version of an ODB2 reader. Had Rivian proprietary software on his laptop then he started a calibration on everything. Windows, seats, mirrors, etc. Next he pulled logs and did see that the voltage got low, around 9 volts. Saw that one of the shunts on the batteries was not responding, he sent a reset to it and it came online.

I am still trying to get a service advisor to contact me on any root cause. I don't want this to happen to me in the middle of nowhere. The benefit of watching everything is that if it does happen and I am in the middle of nowhere I at least can get it going on my own assuming I have 12 volts of some sort.

Will update if I hear anything back from Rivian.
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@DannyC this is why I love forums like these. While it's painful to personally go experience, these write-ups are extremely beneficial to owners for diagnosis and potential work arounds.

Also, while fascinating, it is unfortunate the 12v system is as complicated as it is from an owner perspective.

Cheers
 
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DannyC

DannyC

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The tech that came onsite said the 12 volt system is from the Tesla engineers, apparently something even Tesla is going away from. Hopefully future generation of Rivians will simplify the 12 volt system.
 

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I'm not an engineer but why does this have to be so complicated? It would seem like the 12 v system should be somewhat field serviceable. Kind of a scary thought if out of cell service to call for help.
 

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I'm not an engineer but why does this have to be so complicated? It would seem like the 12 v system should be somewhat field serviceable. Kind of a scary thought if out of cell service to call for help.
It does not have to be this complicated. The ‘problem‘ is that you get a bunch of ambitious engineers in a room designing something, and the “it would be awesome to….” Ideas start popping up, and you can lose sight of practicality and the impact on repairs/service. I’ve been in those meetings, lol. My response is “just because you CAN automate something doesn’t mean you SHOULD.”
 

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It does not have to be this complicated. The ‘problem‘ is that you get a bunch of ambitious engineers in a room designing something, and the “it would be awesome to….” Ideas start popping up, and you can lose sight of practicality and the impact on repairs/service. I’ve been in those meetings, lol. My response is “just because you CAN automate something doesn’t mean you SHOULD.”
Engineers and designers both exhibit this behavior. We called them "Black Capes" as they felt their vision and creativity were paramount. An artist never thinks about practicality or costs. Genius has no bounds.

Which is where Munro can be helpful. I get the cost cutting trepidation, but Rivian certainly got carried away with certain out of the box, let's recreate the wheel type thinking. The key to value engineering is maintaining or actually creating value vs the opposite.

Such as say the tonneau cover, or PaaK glitches, or a bunch of drive modes which do not include winter conditions.
 

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The tech that came onsite said the 12 volt system is from the Tesla engineers, apparently something even Tesla is going away from. Hopefully future generation of Rivians will simplify the 12 volt system.
That's unfortunate. The legacy manufacturers learned how to deal with 12v systems and vampire draw decades ago. You don't have to constantly reinvent the wheel. Inevitably you screw it up and don't learn from past mistakes.
 

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So after reading about the shunts twice I see that this does not appear to be a mechanical issue but rather a software/computer issue.... " "smart" shunts and actually have a processor on them of some sort ".
 

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This is long but technical, if it does happen to you and your stranded you may be able to get going with a 12 volt power supply of some sort with these details.

Happened on October 29th. Went out to check out the Halloween Easter egg and the truck would not unlock, rear brake lights were dimly flashing and that was it! Could not unlock the truck, nothing! Truck was charged to 70% overnight, not cold here in San Diego, maybe got into the 60s at night. I know I checked the charge earlier in the morning and it showed online and charged up as normal. I tried to crack the windows from the app and it never responded and I did not think anything of it at the time. Had the latest update when it died as it had the Halloween surprise in it that I wanted to see.

So I called Rivian service and of course they could not see it online. They were not going to be able to help m on the phone and I decided to pull the 12v jump cords out from the rear bumper and hook up a 12v power supply. According the manual up to 30amp, I just happen to have a 12v 30amp power supply so I connected it up. First I read the power with a meter and 0 volts. Either there is a diode or something to prevent power from flowing back or it was that dead. Here is my hookup.

1668312997226.png


After hooking up the power lights activated and with the remote I was able to "very slowly" unlock the doors and get in. Driver window would only go down about 1 inch at a time, obviously the 12v was very dead. Computer tried to boot up but just never quite made it all the way, tried for about 30 minutes then gave up. Here is a video of what it looks/sounds like.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mHBuLCeG3ic4sSVV6

Another strange observation was that the truck was in the high suspension mode, did not leave it that way.

Disconnected everything, pulled out as much as I could get access to, did not feel like taking apart fender to get to fronk manual release. Called Rivian again and they were going to have it towed... Not sure how you drag a 7,200 plus pound truck up while it is stuck in park. Apparently there is a manual release for the parking brake but I don't know if the tow truck driver would know how to do that.

Monday comes and no word yet from Rivian, I called them and they decided it would be better to have a mobile tech come out. That is what I was hoping for!

Tech shows up before 9am and got into the fronk through the manual pull and then starts getting access to the batteries, real nice guy, believe his name is Greg. Very knowledgeable and I asked a lot of questions so hopefully I did not bug him too much. Batteries were very dead and I learned that the 12v jump in the back only connects to the main 12v battery.

So yes there are 2 AGM 12 volt batteries, they are NOT connected in any way to each other outside of a common ground. there is a shut on the negative terminals and they are "smart" shunts and actually have a processor on them of some sort. There are roughly 6 or 7 positive terminals on top with integrated fuses, so a massive pain to get to if you had a blown fuse! He connected up both new batteries and charged them up together. Then he held the negative wires over their terminals and it looks like he was praying for a few seconds. He said both batteries need to be connected at the exact same time. He held them there then listened for a relay to click after about 10 or 15 seconds. Then he let go of the left one, tightened up the right negative terminal, then tightened up the left negative terminal.

Both batteries were replaced with new ones but he seemed to think the old ones were not damaged.

Now the truck came to life! He connected his laptop up to the ODB2 port with a network version of an ODB2 reader. Had Rivian proprietary software on his laptop then he started a calibration on everything. Windows, seats, mirrors, etc. Next he pulled logs and did see that the voltage got low, around 9 volts. Saw that one of the shunts on the batteries was not responding, he sent a reset to it and it came online.

I am still trying to get a service advisor to contact me on any root cause. I don't want this to happen to me in the middle of nowhere. The benefit of watching everything is that if it does happen and I am in the middle of nowhere I at least can get it going on my own assuming I have 12 volts of some sort.

Will update if I hear anything back from Rivian.
My 2 month old R1T issue started with a "Critical Battery" alert, which later ended in a completely dead R1T. Here is my Service Advisor's comment (paraphrased): The large 480 volt battery contains a switch inside of it that keeps the 12v batteries charged. These batteries are used to power the computer, lights, locks, etc. This switch was stuck "open" (off position) which prevented the 12v system from charging. Since the switch was located inside the 480v battery itself, it was not accessible to Rivian's Service. Rivian replaced the large 480v battery and so far everything is back to normal. It appears that many R1Ts of a certain build had the same issue. It seems this isn't a Rivian problem, per se, but is one from the 480v battery manufacturer. Hopefully my new battery will not fail again.
 
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DannyC

DannyC

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Thats a bad design to have a "switch" buried so deep inside the battery that it cannot be replaced or worked on without taking the battery out. I don't think that is my issue, no warnings for me at all other than multiple weekly resets because my audio would stop working and other strange issues.
 

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Unfortunately experienced DIY ICE vehicle owners like myself are SOL when it comes to electrical malfunctions on the R1T. We need to rely on SC/mobile techs and the bumper to bumper warranty. Just wait until the factory warranty expires ($$$$$$).

My biggest fear is waking up to dead 12v batteries 75-100 miles out in the boonies during an over-landing excursion.
 
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Mickey

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You can jump the 12v batteries via two jumper wires stowed near the trailer hitch. Refer to the manual if you need to do this... but you'd better find out why the 12v batteries went dead. This should not happen.
 

electruck

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It seems this isn't a Rivian problem, per se, but is one from the 480v battery manufacturer.
Umm, you realize that Rivian is the battery pack manufacturer, right? They don't currently manufacture the individual cells in the pack but the modules and pack are Rivian designed and assembled.
 

Mickey

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Umm, you realize that Rivian is the battery pack manufacturer, right? They don't currently manufacture the individual cells in the pack but the modules and pack are Rivian designed and assembled.
I didn't know that. Never heard about Rivian having a battery assembly plant. Very interesting.
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