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Dark-Fx

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Patrick87

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I wonder if Rivian will eventually offer a NACs cord replacement. I could see that being beneficial in the future as more and more vehicles move to the new standard. It beats an adapter on your cord everytime. I'd rather just swap the whole cord (or cord end) out if all my vehicles had NACs. (assuming the cord wouldn't be astronomically expensive)
 

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I wonder if Rivian will eventually offer a NACs cord replacement. I could see that being beneficial in the future as more and more vehicles move to the new standard. It beats an adapter on your cord everytime. I'd rather just swap the whole cord (or cord end) out if all my vehicles had NACs. (assuming the cord wouldn't be astronomically expensive)
ChargePoint offers a NACs cable upgrade for $199.
https://store.chargepoint.com/product/nacs-cable-kit
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

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I wonder if Rivian will eventually offer a NACs cord replacement. I could see that being beneficial in the future as more and more vehicles move to the new standard. It beats an adapter on your cord everytime. I'd rather just swap the whole cord (or cord end) out if all my vehicles had NACs. (assuming the cord wouldn't be astronomically expensive)
If that's the only hardware change required... probably, eventually. We know they take a while to catch up to customer needs.
 

shrink

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ChargePoint offers a NACs cable upgrade for $199.
https://store.chargepoint.com/product/nacs-cable-kit
I was about to post that. The wiring should be identical - two 120V hots and a ground. I think the connector/plug is pretty agnostic.

Nice catch @Dark-Fx

I think I've been at the EV thing longer than many (first EV was a 2011 LEAF). I used to own a 2010 Tesla Roadster and that connector was just wonky and clunky to use. When I bought that car I was given a Clipper Creek Tesla branded CS-70 EVSE with the funky Roadster connector. I updated it to J1772 after selling the Roadster and am currently using it with my R1T.

I think the Chargepoint NACS connector Cable kit that @kozak79 linked will work with any Level 2 EVSE (but I'm not an electrical engineer. I defer to the experts more knowledgeable than I).
 

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I was about to post that. The wiring should be identical - two 120V hots and a ground. I think the connector/plug is pretty agnostic.
There is at least one small low voltage wire for communication between the vehicle and EVSE, maybe there are others.

Actually I don't know that there is a ground wire? I know the EVSE obviously has a ground going to it from the home and uses it to trickle tests GFCI - I'm not sure the ground also goes from the EVSE to the vehicle.
 

MacO512

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Ok just looked up NACS and J1772..... they each have 5 wires, biggest two are hot1 and hot2. Smaller ground wire. Then two tiny signal wires. So switching a J1772 cable to NACS would require 5 connections in the EVSE.
 

shrink

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Ah yes, thanks for correcting me.

Pulled this from a YouTube video. 5 wires indeed. Definitely looks like 2 hots and a ground + 2 signal wires to a custom connector.

Rivian R1T R1S Rivian Wall Charger J1772 cable replacement guide IMG_4832
 

HaveBlue

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There's a control pilot and proximity pilot. One to tell the car how fast to charge and one to verify the connector is connected and it's safe to energize. The ground is there to protect in case there is high voltage leakage into the car body. The power leads supply either single phase or split phase to the car.
 
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Dark-Fx

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There's a control pilot and proximity pilot. One to tell the car how fast to charge and one to verify the connector is connected and it's safe to energize. The ground is there to protect in case there is high voltage leakage into the car body. The power leads supply either single phase or split phase to the car.
A lot of J1772 handles don't wire the 5th wire (proximity) back to the EVSE, they just loop it from the ground wire, with the switch, and back into the connector. I suspect Rivian is doing this too, because they're only showing one pilot cable getting wired into the box.

In the EU, they use it so the station can identify the capability of the cable plugged into the station, since it's popular to just have a socket on the station and bring-your-own-cable.

I think it should be trivial to replace the J1772 cable with a NACS one, but I have no reason to bother trying, personally.
 

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My Rivian charger has been slow as shit lately. It always says cable hot as the reason why. Would this solve the issue? Do I put in a ticket for it? How long is the warranty on the charger, mine doesn't even connect to wifi anymore and hasn't for a while.
 
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Dark-Fx

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My Rivian charger has been slow as shit lately. It always says cable hot as the reason why. Would this solve the issue? Do I put in a ticket for it? How long is the warranty on the charger, mine doesn't even connect to wifi anymore and hasn't for a while.
I'd put in a ticket. Worst that can happen is they don't do anything.

Rivian R1T R1S Rivian Wall Charger J1772 cable replacement guide 1743167054075-6s


Failing that, I'd try to clean the oxidation off if there is any. Electrical contact cleaner and some real pipe cleaners.
 

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A lot of J1772 handles don't wire the 5th wire (proximity) back to the EVSE, they just loop it from the ground wire, with the switch, and back into the connector. I suspect Rivian is doing this too, because they're only showing one pilot cable getting wired into the box.

In the EU, they use it so the station can identify the capability of the cable plugged into the station, since it's popular to just have a socket on the station and bring-your-own-cable.

I think it should be trivial to replace the J1772 cable with a NACS one, but I have no reason to bother trying, personally.
Yes there's probably several ways they can sense that.

Autel maxichargers come as either J or Tesla now. I don't think there's any problem interchanging cables everywhere as the J adapter that comes with Teslas is nothing special and neither are our Tesla ones.
 

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Failing that, I'd try to clean the oxidation off if there is any. Electrical contact cleaner and some real pipe cleaners.
I'd tighten the connectors, too (make sure it's powered off at the mains before checking at the breaker). Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 

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