strykerwsu
Well-Known Member
Just installed and then read your item about fuse. I didn't remove mine, does that create an issue or is it OK to keep the fuse in place. Haven't out back together yet so can still "fix" if needed.Just to add to the fine details here - The frunk OEM connector used in question is a Sumitomo 6185-5181 that uses Sumitomo 8240-0265 Female Terminals. The wire plugs (water seals) you need will depend on the gauge of wire you end up using, obviously. Getting the seal size right with the wire gauge + insulation thickness can be tricky - AWG is not dictated by insulation thickness, it is strictly wire gauge, so you can end up with some 14 or 16AWG wire that has really thick insulation that will actually not work well with these wire seals. Best to measure the wire you're actually using for this mod to make sure you get the correct wire seal - trying to stuff an undersized wire seal into the connector body is a brutal pain in the ass.
Also, I get my parts for this connector from ConnectorID.com because it's US-based and has fast shipping. Here's the parts I ordered for my last Frunk update:
I ordered several different wire seal sizes because I had different projects to do - you don't need all of these parts if you're doing this modification, obviously.
- The light blue seal is CID1307 and is for 18, 20 or 22AWG wire, max insulation 1.0-2.2mm
- The blue seal is CIDJ012 and is a plug for unused connector ports
- The purple seal is CID1299 and is for 14, 16 and 18AWG wire, max insulation 1.8-2.7mm
- The green seal is CID1140 and is for 14, 16 and 18AWG wire, max insulation 2.0-3.0mm
- There is also an orange wire seal available, part number CID1005 for 18 and 20AWG wire with a max insulation of 1.6-2.3mm
- The female terminals (aka 'pins') you'll need are CID204-2.3-FS3 for the Sumitomo RS090 series connector. I doubt anyone wants to spend $218 on the crimper for these, so you'll probably just want to carefully hand-crimp the wires and add a very conservative amount of solder to ensure a good connection. WARNING: If you do add solder, you must make absolutely certain that you don't allow solder to wick into the terminal wireway at all, or the terminal is ruined and will need to be replaced.
- The 12V socket I use is from Amazon, but it's a bear to install because it's threaded, and means you have to thread the nut onto the socket from inside the light cavity. It thoroughly sucks donkey ass trying to get it installed, but it looks great once it's in there. I get PTSD thinking about the amount of time I spent trying to use 1 finger to align the nut onto the socket and hold it in place while I turned the socket to tighten it. The reason I like this one is because the wires are injection molded into the socket body as opposed to a screw & nut that is exposed and could come loose. I cut off the inline fuse and the hoop terminals, obviously - the socket is already fused by the Rivian. Also note that this is one of those cases where the 14AWG wire has brutally thick insulation that won't play nice with the wire seals listed above, so you'll either have to strip off more than enough to allow entrance into the connector body (plus wire seal) and replace that extra thick insulation with a thinner waterproof heat shrink tubing - then slide the wire seal over that and stuff that into the connector housing.
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