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savethemanual

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The NOCO jump pack is great for ICE's though, I have one and have helped out so many people. Amazing how many dead batteries happen in parking lots during winter! Still keep one in your vehicle, you'll be a hero :)
 

godfodder0901

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Not sure he did.
Did you watch the video? He tried multiple booster packs and couldn't get it to work, so he brought in the Crown Vic to jump it. It's the only thing that worked so, yes, he did jump it from a car.
 

cwq93r

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Did you watch the video? He tried multiple booster packs and couldn't get it to work, so he brought in the Crown Vic to jump it. It's the only thing that worked so, yes, he did jump it from a car.
My mistake. Thought the question was if he jumped it from a booster pack.
 

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Hereforthesnacks

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The NOCO jump pack is great for ICE's though, I have one and have helped out so many people. Amazing how many dead batteries happen in parking lots during winter! Still keep one in your vehicle, you'll be a hero :)
Yep. And they will start an R1 if it’s not 100% totally dead. And most of the time, it won’t be that dead. So I’d keep one in the car just in case.
 
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Yep. And they will start an R1 if it’s not 100% totally dead. And most of the time, it won’t be that dead. So I’d keep one in the car just in case.
In the case where its dead enough to not start, but not so dead that it can't be jumped, will it still unlock on its own? Keeping a jump pack in the car won't help if you're locked out and can't get to it. And even in the frunk, you'd need access to the right ratchet/driver to get to the manual release.

I think its probably only worth it for the good samaritan karma, not for self-rescue.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

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In the case where its dead enough to not start, but not so dead that it can't be jumped, will it still unlock on its own? Keeping a jump pack in the car won't help if you're locked out and can't get to it. And even in the frunk, you'd need access to the right ratchet/driver to get to the manual release.

I think its probably only worth it for the good samaritan karma, not for self-rescue.
I don't think anyone can get you a definitive answer because there are just different levels of "dead". And we don't really know what voltage range correlates to which outcome. Only way to know is to try. I do recall one persons saying their NOCO (I think same model you mentioned) allowed them to unlock. If you decide to keep one in your frunk... Some methods for storing tools to get to the manual frunk release have been discussed in the past, all 3D printed. One is this a license plate holder. The other is a tray that fits inside the trailer hitch (this one for example, many others including STL files out there), which is just big enough to fit a small ratchet and the necessary Torx bit (T27 for R2).
 
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Hereforthesnacks

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In the case where its dead enough to not start, but not so dead that it can't be jumped, will it still unlock on its own? Keeping a jump pack in the car won't help if you're locked out and can't get to it. And even in the frunk, you'd need access to the right ratchet/driver to get to the manual release.

I think its probably only worth it for the good samaritan karma, not for self-rescue.
Ya tough call. I mean if the car won’t unlock and the jumper is in the car, you are OOO.

Funny enough, I just used mine on Saturday to help someone out (with a RAV4).
 

Just Passing By

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In the case where its dead enough to not start, but not so dead that it can't be jumped, will it still unlock on its own? Keeping a jump pack in the car won't help if you're locked out and can't get to it. And even in the frunk, you'd need access to the right ratchet/driver to get to the manual release.

I think its probably only worth it for the good samaritan karma, not for self-rescue.
Another option is to use a container attached with a magnet to hold the small ratchet and torx bit for frunk access, assuming there is something steel under the vehicle that is relatively easy to access and which provides a good location for seating the container. A suitable neodymium magnet should be more than capable of holding the weight through pretty much anything you'd want to be doing in an R2 ... and probably some things you wouldn't want to be doing.

Even cheaper option might be to zip tie the suitably protected tools to something under the vehicle.
 

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Dasoss

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If it's at all like the R1, it will require close to 30 amps for maybe a min or so in order to boot the stone cold dead computers and screens. Those small hand held 1,000 amp jump boxes 100% are out of the question. You need an old school 12V jump pack which has Sealed Led Acid batteries inside.

This will work:
https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/
or...
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-Electric-ProSeries-Portable-Batteries/dp/B0756QKZPK/
Or maybe one of the LiFeP battery packs from Powerworks that house Bioeno batteries
 

Thebandit

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It's just so wild and insane to me to make a vehicle that you cannot get into if the battery is dead.

Keys are a thing. We've had them since the dawn of time. They work.
 
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emroch

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Another option is to use a container attached with a magnet to hold the small ratchet and torx bit for frunk access, assuming there is something steel under the vehicle that is relatively easy to access and which provides a good location for seating the container. A suitable neodymium magnet should be more than capable of holding the weight through pretty much anything you'd want to be doing in an R2 ... and probably some things you wouldn't want to be doing.

Even cheaper option might be to zip tie the suitably protected tools to something under the vehicle.
@UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan posted this hitch receiver container earlier and I quite like the idea of it. The same site sells replacement thumb screws for the hitch cover that you can turn by hand. That means I don't need a coin/screwdriver to get to the hitch, and have a secret/secure place to keep a mini ratchet. I'm sure you could also attach a magnetic container in that area too, and have it hidden by the hitch cover.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

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It's just so wild and insane to me to make a vehicle that you cannot get into if the battery is dead.

Keys are a thing. We've had them since the dawn of time. They work.
This is the Achille's heel of all EVs without keyed door locks. Nothing new.

ICE cars use 12V juice to turn the alternator, which drives a belt and turn the crank, which move pistons up and down, inject fuel, compress air/fuel mixture, and ignite it at the right time. Once the engine turns over and fires, the running engine and spinning crank drives the alternator to generate electricity to power all electrical components and recharge the 12V.

In contrast, EVs rely on BMS to direct recharging and maintenance of the 12V from juice in the HV pack. If the 12V is faulty, if the BMS is faulty, then the 12V weakens and then fail. When the 12V is weak or has failed... imagine what happens to your smartphone when its battery is too weak allow you to turn it on.

You want a car with mechanical door locks and physical keys? What are you doing here and in 2026? It's like choosing scolding hot coffee only to complain it's scolding hot. Move along. This is probably not the right car for you.

PS—Get a car with physical keys and keyhole, then get back to us on how easy it is to break in and steal it. The old way isn't better. It's just a different way.
 
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SwampNut

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ICE cars use 12V juice to turn the alternator, which drives a belt and turn the crank, which move pistons up and down, inject fuel, compress air/fuel mixture, and ignite it at the right time.
Not even close. Can you please just stop making things up?
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