Portable Jump Starter

[emroch]

The Tow Guide/User Manual has this sentence in the jump starting section:

If you're using a portable jump starter, it must maintain a steady voltage between 13 to 16 V at 30 A.

This phrasing sounds like a warning indicating that you need to find a particular type of device to support jump starts. But many portable jump starters seem to be in the hundreds or thousands of amps, well over 30A.

Does R2 require sustained 30A power for some amount of time, which even the big 1000A starters might not be able to do, or is that just a maximum peak rating?

I am specifically looking at the NOCO Boost GB40 to keep as an emergency kit for myself or in case I can help someone else. AI tells me that the NOCO are not specifically rated for EVs and might struggle/fail, though the bigger ones might do better. I don't really want to invest in any of the super big ones though, the GB40 seems like a reasonable size to keep around in the trunk/frunk.

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[NY_Rob]

If it's at all like the R1, it will require close to 30 amps for maybe a min or so in order to boot the stone cold dead computers and screens. Those small hand held 1,000 amp jump boxes 100% are out of the question. You need an old school 12V jump pack which has Sealed Led Acid batteries inside.

This will work:
https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/
or...
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-Electric-ProSeries-Portable-Batteries/dp/B0756QKZPK/

 

[KBabione]

I carry a small jump box like you posted, but only to help others. I've accepted that I'm not going to self-recover if I get a dead battery. Honestly, if you're concerned about starting a completely dead Rivian battery, you might be better off carrying some old-school jumper cables and relying on an ICE vehicle to help you.

 

[SilverII]

I am wondering if those mini 100Ah LFP batteries and a set of jumper cable will be better? Its not like its trying crank the engine?

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

Small lithium packs like the NOCO are designed specifically for ICE and thusly made for burst of peak energy, to crank over an engine and allowing it to fire. EVs need sustained power to boot up all computers, if the 12V is too far gone to provide it. The NOCO may still work if the 12V is just weakened enough to not be able to wake and unlock. To meet prescribed specs, you most likely need a lead acid jump pack like those listed at rivianservicetools.com. Would be nice if someone would make lithium jump packs for EVs, that are smaller than these, but since EVs are less than 10% of all cars out there… probably not enough of a business case.

BTW, having a jump pack in the frunk isn’t going to help if you can’t unlock and get to it. Tow Operator guide has info on access to manual release.

https://rivian.com/support/vehicle-docs

 

[Nixapatfan]

A jump pack isn't going to get you moving if the 12v battery dies so not even something you should worry about carrying with you, if it bricks on the go be ready for a tow.

The jump pack can help you get doors and hood opened and access to the battery but going to need a relatively large battery as you'll need to sustain power for a minute or 2 at 30 amps. But if the jump pack is in the truck, well then it's useless for this also.

A reserve battery is probably the better way to go but even that has risks of keeping it charged all the time. I probably would forget to charge it on a regular basis.

 

[emroch]

BTW, having a jump pack in the frunk isn’t going to help if you can’t unlock and get to it. Tow Operator guide has info on access to manual release.

The jump pack can help you get doors and hood opened and access to the battery but going to need a relatively large battery as you'll need to sustain power for a minute or 2 at 30 amps. But if the jump pack is in the truck, well then it's useless for this also.

My understanding is that once the vehicle boots and assuming the HV system is healthy, all the 12V systems run off the HV battery. But if the 12V is dead, the HV contractor can't close and you can't start the car. A quick jump should theoretically get you going in this case.

And yes, storage of a rescue kit has been something I've been wrestling with. For helping others, keeping reflectors, gloves, air pump, straps, etc in the sub-trunk is reasonable as I expect my car to be fully operational in those cases. For helping myself in case of a lockout, the trunk obviously doesn't work. I could put a jump pack in the frunk, but still need a ratchet to get into the wheel well for the manual release...

 

[emroch]

Given the feedback that the portable Li-Ion packs are not sufficient for EVs, I think I'm going to pare down my roadside kit to hi-vis vest/reflectors, basic recovery straps, gloves, and maybe a small screwdriver/wrench set and just keep it in the trunk. If I find a good deal on a portable jump starter, maybe I'll carry one for helping others, but sounds like if I get locked out or stranded I'm calling a tow trunk either way.

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