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RWerksman

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I assembled mine this morning:

First thing is that the holes didn't fit the Delrin pins that I've used in other items. So I drilled them out to make them a bit bigger. Left is the slightly bigger size.

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_130947


And, shit...

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_131113


It's plastic though, so I can mend that. I realized that I still had a package of metal dowl pins that I was investigating using before testing showed the Delrin plastic ones would be fine. so I used those. There are a lot:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_131418


And glue + the next set:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_134059


Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_135204


Glue the handle on:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_134216


And there we go:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_135813_387328491633921634


Installed:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 20231209_140706



All in all it took me about 90 minutes for assembly. Fit is really excellent, as expected -- loads better than the version that I made prior and the click for inserting and removing is just fantastic, like the OEM drawer.



I love it. That's the not to say there aren't improvements that can be made. First, I'd love to see it in fewer parts. Everything here is obviously 3D printed and even when all the bits come off the printer perfect, there is still variance especially when we're adding in dowl pins and glue. It will never be perfect. Excellent, sure, but not perfect. Some of us are MUCH more particular in that regard.

9/10

Going forward, I think I'm going to remix the model a bit with the goals of making it easier to produce, in two pieces, and bolt together. I'm not sure when / if I'll get there and I hope that others will also remix.
 
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kozak79

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I assembled mine this morning:

First thing is that the holes didn't fit the Delrin pins that I've used in other items. So I drilled them out to make them a bit bigger. Left is the slightly bigger size.

20231209_130947.jpg


And, shit...

20231209_131113.jpg


It's plastic though, so I can mend that. I realized that I still had a package of metal dowl pins that I was investigating using before testing showed the Delrin plastic ones would be fine. so I used those. There are a lot:

20231209_131418.jpg


And glue + the next set:

20231209_134059.jpg


20231209_135204.jpg


Glue the handle on:

20231209_134216.jpg


And there we go:

20231209_135813_387328491633921634.jpg


Installed:

20231209_140706.jpg



All in all it took me about 90 minutes for assembly. Fit is really excellent, as expected -- loads better than the version that I made prior and the click for inserting and removing is just fantastic, like the OEM drawer.



I love it. That's the not to say there aren't improvements that can be made. First, I'd love to see it in fewer parts. Everything here is obviously 3D printed and even when all the bits come off the printer perfect, there is still variance especially when we're adding in dowl pins and glue. It will never be perfect. Excellent, sure, but not perfect. Some of us are MUCH more particular in that regard.

9/10

Going forward, I think I'm going to remix the model a bit with the goals of making it easier to produce, in two pieces, and bolt together. I'm not sure when / if I'll get there and I hope that others will also remix.
It was definitely a labor of love :)
 

RWerksman

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I've been working on re-engineering this more than what I care to admit over the past few days, and here is where I stand:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 1702274142594


I've been able to combine all the bits into a single printable item. I've experimented in breaking it down a variety of ways and have settled on a two-piece design, more or less.

The two bits will bolt together using four M5 x 12MM bolts and standard M5 nuts -- there are no proprietary hardware with this one. 12MM is a bit of an odd size, but 10MM was too short and 15MM was a touch too long. I wanted to recess the bolts a bit due to the curvature of the model itself. Seriously, there are no straight lines here, unless I added them in.

The larger part is straight-forward enough and has been tweaked with production in mind:
  • It's a touch under 250g of total weight. This was important so one can plan filament swaps as doing a mid-print swap will likely lead to color variations. This required finessing the wall depths all the way around and adding in some sculpt-outs.
  • It's also been shortened a touch too. It's now just under 250mm in total length. This is about 3MM shorter than Camp Speaker. I did this for two reasons -- first is that I think it sat a bit proud. Second, and more importantly is for compatibility. 250MM is the maximum X axis build width of the Prusa Mk3 and the maximum Z axis build height of the Bambu Lab X1 and P1.
  • The sides of this are designed to be slightly pulled into the second bit. The tension keeps everything just a bit more secure. Or at least should, in theory.
  • It will need some supports, mainly around where the cut out is for the lock.
The smaller part is a bit more complicated as it has to function as both a structural element and as a handle.
  • The look and feel has been largely carried over from the model. It's been combined as I think it's printable together. It could easily be pulled back apart for a multi-color print or similar.
  • The split between this part and the larger one is right at the seam in the design of the OEM Camp Speaker. The only bit that doesn't adhere is some bracing that I wanted to keep with this model due to durability and printability concerns.
  • Four retaining areas for the M5 nuts are baked into the design along with some run-off afterward.
  • This bit will likely need to be printed with tree supports. TBH, I had to do that with the one I printed already.

I'm not anywhere near done with this -- I probably have another 10 hours into refining it before I feel remotely comfortable with sharing it. I will say that I feel like remixing this model is one of the more difficult things that I've done. It starting with a scan of the Camp Speaker + the quantity of the features + the limited toolset / experience is daunting.

I think the bigger question here is can this model be produced. I think the answer to this is yes, with some caveats. Time and failed prints are going to be difficult to manage as even the fastest Bambu X1C will only be able to make one every 10 hours -- way longer for a Prusa. The time and failure rate would likely drive pricing up.

I'm curious as to how many people would be interested in this. If I were to start making these, I'd likely need to add some capacity. Too few and I'd be hung out to dry. Too many, and fulfillment would be too lengthy. I down to do it, but I'd like to get a feeling as to what it would look like first.

More photos:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 1702278971396


Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 1702278930082


Treeeees:

Rivian R1T R1S My 3D printed OEM-looking Camp Speaker Drawer 1702279038397
 

windblowlc

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I've been working on re-engineering this more than what I care to admit over the past few days, and here is where I stand:

1702274142594.png


I've been able to combine all the bits into a single printable item. I've experimented in breaking it down a variety of ways and have settled on a two-piece design, more or less.

The two bits will bolt together using four M5 x 12MM bolts and standard M5 nuts -- there are no proprietary hardware with this one. 12MM is a bit of an odd size, but 10MM was too short and 15MM was a touch too long. I wanted to recess the bolts a bit due to the curvature of the model itself. Seriously, there are no straight lines here, unless I added them in.

The larger part is straight-forward enough and has been tweaked with production in mind:
  • It's a touch under 250g of total weight. This was important so one can plan filament swaps as doing a mid-print swap will likely lead to color variations. This required finessing the wall depths all the way around and adding in some sculpt-outs.
  • It's also been shortened a touch too. It's now just under 250mm in total length. This is about 3MM shorter than Camp Speaker. I did this for two reasons -- first is that I think it sat a bit proud. Second, and more importantly is for compatibility. 250MM is the maximum X axis build width of the Prusa Mk3 and the maximum Z axis build height of the Bambu Lab X1 and P1.
  • The sides of this are designed to be slightly pulled into the second bit. The tension keeps everything just a bit more secure. Or at least should, in theory.
  • It will need some supports, mainly around where the cut out is for the lock.
The smaller part is a bit more complicated as it has to function as both a structural element and as a handle.
  • The look and feel has been largely carried over from the model. It's been combined as I think it's printable together. It could easily be pulled back apart for a multi-color print or similar.
  • The split between this part and the larger one is right at the seam in the design of the OEM Camp Speaker. The only bit that doesn't adhere is some bracing that I wanted to keep with this model due to durability and printability concerns.
  • Four retaining areas for the M5 nuts are baked into the design along with some run-off afterward.
  • This bit will likely need to be printed with tree supports. TBH, I had to do that with the one I printed already.

I'm not anywhere near done with this -- I probably have another 10 hours into refining it before I feel remotely comfortable with sharing it. I will say that I feel like remixing this model is one of the more difficult things that I've done. It starting with a scan of the Camp Speaker + the quantity of the features + the limited toolset / experience is daunting.

I think the bigger question here is can this model be produced. I think the answer to this is yes, with some caveats. Time and failed prints are going to be difficult to manage as even the fastest Bambu X1C will only be able to make one every 10 hours -- way longer for a Prusa. The time and failure rate would likely drive pricing up.

I'm curious as to how many people would be interested in this. If I were to start making these, I'd likely need to add some capacity. Too few and I'd be hung out to dry. Too many, and fulfillment would be too lengthy. I down to do it, but I'd like to get a feeling as to what it would look like first.

More photos:

1702278971396.png


1702278930082.png


Treeeees:

1702279038397.png
Count me in for one
 

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Printed out one and had some serious problems with the pins not lining up. I ended up just superglue the pieces together without the pins and it seems to be staying together just fine. .
 
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kozak79

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Printed out one and had some serious problems with the pins not lining up. I ended up just superglue the pieces together without the pins and it seems to be staying together just fine. .
That's weird, I made 3 already and the pins all lined up.
 

RWerksman

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My pins lined up perfect too.
 

NY_Rob

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Pins not lining up might be due to lack of cooling or possibly too much cooling during printing.. hotbed temps could be off too?
 

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This is the one I'm using now.

20231208_184225516_iOS.jpg
20231208_184234957_iOS.jpg
Great work! Looks good. I'm hoping to scan and print a few more parts (I think you jumped on my other thread) if there's something you want scanned for one of your projects let me know and I'll see what I can do for a collab
 

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I've been working on re-engineering this more than what I care to admit over the past few days, and here is where I stand:

1702274142594.png


I've been able to combine all the bits into a single printable item. I've experimented in breaking it down a variety of ways and have settled on a two-piece design, more or less.

The two bits will bolt together using four M5 x 12MM bolts and standard M5 nuts -- there are no proprietary hardware with this one. 12MM is a bit of an odd size, but 10MM was too short and 15MM was a touch too long. I wanted to recess the bolts a bit due to the curvature of the model itself. Seriously, there are no straight lines here, unless I added them in.

The larger part is straight-forward enough and has been tweaked with production in mind:
  • It's a touch under 250g of total weight. This was important so one can plan filament swaps as doing a mid-print swap will likely lead to color variations. This required finessing the wall depths all the way around and adding in some sculpt-outs.
  • It's also been shortened a touch too. It's now just under 250mm in total length. This is about 3MM shorter than Camp Speaker. I did this for two reasons -- first is that I think it sat a bit proud. Second, and more importantly is for compatibility. 250MM is the maximum X axis build width of the Prusa Mk3 and the maximum Z axis build height of the Bambu Lab X1 and P1.
  • The sides of this are designed to be slightly pulled into the second bit. The tension keeps everything just a bit more secure. Or at least should, in theory.
  • It will need some supports, mainly around where the cut out is for the lock.
The smaller part is a bit more complicated as it has to function as both a structural element and as a handle.
  • The look and feel has been largely carried over from the model. It's been combined as I think it's printable together. It could easily be pulled back apart for a multi-color print or similar.
  • The split between this part and the larger one is right at the seam in the design of the OEM Camp Speaker. The only bit that doesn't adhere is some bracing that I wanted to keep with this model due to durability and printability concerns.
  • Four retaining areas for the M5 nuts are baked into the design along with some run-off afterward.
  • This bit will likely need to be printed with tree supports. TBH, I had to do that with the one I printed already.

I'm not anywhere near done with this -- I probably have another 10 hours into refining it before I feel remotely comfortable with sharing it. I will say that I feel like remixing this model is one of the more difficult things that I've done. It starting with a scan of the Camp Speaker + the quantity of the features + the limited toolset / experience is daunting.

I think the bigger question here is can this model be produced. I think the answer to this is yes, with some caveats. Time and failed prints are going to be difficult to manage as even the fastest Bambu X1C will only be able to make one every 10 hours -- way longer for a Prusa. The time and failure rate would likely drive pricing up.

I'm curious as to how many people would be interested in this. If I were to start making these, I'd likely need to add some capacity. Too few and I'd be hung out to dry. Too many, and fulfillment would be too lengthy. I down to do it, but I'd like to get a feeling as to what it would look like first.

More photos:

1702278971396.png


1702278930082.png


Treeeees:

1702279038397.png
Have you seen the one post where OP did circuitry that enabled the screen to pop the drawer just like the speaker?
 

RWerksman

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Have you seen the one post where OP did circuitry that enabled the screen to pop the drawer just like the speaker?
It wasn't the OP, but yep, I saw that. It appears as though it's just a bit of resistance. It's on my agenda to reach out to see if he will share what was discovered.
 
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kozak79

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Great work! Looks good. I'm hoping to scan and print a few more parts (I think you jumped on my other thread) if there's something you want scanned for one of your projects let me know and I'll see what I can do for a collab
My ultimate goal is to get the panel at the back of the bed scanned and the structure behind it to model a drawer for the empty tonneau cover space. I’m not sure if your scanner can do a large surface like that.
 

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My ultimate goal is to get the panel at the back of the bed scanned and the structure behind it to model a drawer for the empty tonneau cover space. I’m not sure if your scanner can do a large surface like that.
Not in a single pass, no. Bigger issue is I only have access to an S not a T so wouldn't be able to help a ton either way. If anything else comes up let me know, happy to help
 

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I want one, but please put some USBs on the front. Should connect to the camp speaker charging system.
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