Megawatt™ Rock Sliders for R1T. Coming soon to Electruck4x4.com

[AllInev]

This type of damage to the underbody rocker panel plastic is not uncommon. Those plus the panels that cover the jack point need to be removed. See below.

@electruck4x4 thanks for these photos. Can you post similar photos with your sliders attached?

It's feeling really bizarre to me how hard it is to get these photos from y'all (@DCE, @electruck4x4, @EV Sportline)? Am I being unreasonable?

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[electruck4x4]

@electruck4x4 thanks for these photos. Can you post similar photos with your sliders attached?

It's feeling really bizarre to me how hard it is to get these photos from y'all (@DCE, @electruck4x4, @EV Sportline)? Am I being unreasonable?

Anytime!

I’m sure everyone will post theirs in time. As for Electruck in particular: I’m headed to meet up with the production team on Jan 3rd for the latest mock-up. I’ll report back from there with the goal of having either pictures or a good reason why they aren’t available.

 

[AllInev]

The @EV Sportline option provides for modification and reinstallation of these panels, which is a plus in my eyes.

@jebinc Is this documented somewhere? I hadn't seen this mentioned before. I'm curious to know more. Thanks.

 

[jebinc]

@jebinc Is this documented somewhere? I hadn't seen this mentioned before. I'm curious to know more. Thanks.

Yes, in their 24 page long thread. Maybe around page 18.

 

[kizamybute']

And now we have OPTIONS.

Any chance just a running board without rock sliders will be offered at a lower cost?

I certainly like the surface plate design better. Happy to read there are no bolts holding it on and no visible welds. But still wonder if open slots are necessary? Most factory running boards are solid. Seems like the ones being designed for the Rivian are going with surface plates that are open to the ground below. Not sure if there's a particular reason for that? Not that it looks bad. My only concern would be with potential added wind noise and dirt and grime being kicked up from the tires onto the top of the surface plate where you step just before entering the vehicle.?

As only one other person noted, not sure I love the kickout at the rear? My personal preference would be for it to be straight, following the lines of the truck. Without being able to see it, tough to say, but I know that it can be tight getting out of the back doors if the gear tunnel door is open, so not sure if this kickout at the rear would have any impact on ingress/egress if the gear tunnel door is open? Appears that the kickout is in line with the gear tunnel rather than the door, so hopefully not.

Overall, they look great. Aside from that kickout at the back, if we have to have openings to the ground below, these certainly look very clean and a less "busy", which is much preferred.

Great job. So happy to see companies investing into new after-market products.

Now I'm going to have a decision to make. Will be a tough decision if these are offered just as running boards at a competitive price point.

 

[electruck4x4]

And now we have OPTIONS.

Any chance just a running board without rock sliders will be offered at a lower cost?

I certainly like the surface plate design better. Happy to read there are no bolts holding it on and no visible welds. But still wonder if open slots are necessary? Most factory running boards are solid. Seems like the ones being designed for the Rivian are going with surface plates that are open to the ground below. Not sure if there's a particular reason for that? Not that it looks bad. My only concern would be with potential added wind noise and dirt and grime being kicked up from the tires onto the top of the surface plate where you step just before entering the vehicle.?

As only one other person noted, not sure I love the kickout at the rear? My personal preference would be for it to be straight, following the lines of the truck. Without being able to see it, tough to say, but I know that it can be tight getting out of the back doors if the gear tunnel door is open, so not sure if this kickout at the rear would have any impact on ingress/egress if the gear tunnel door is open? Appears that the kickout is in line with the gear tunnel rather than the door, so hopefully not.

Overall, they look great. Aside from that kickout at the back, if we have to have openings to the ground below, these certainly look very clean and a less "busy", which is much preferred.

Great job. So happy to see companies investing into new after-market products.

Now I'm going to have a decision to make. Will be a tough decision if these are offered just as running boards at a competitive price point.

Yes. A more inexpensive step is coming in the future.

The slots are there to allow mud, snow, etc to not build up on the steps. Hypothetically though, yes, a step would be possible without them.

We’re sticking with the kick out for now. It actually follows the truck lines much better than one would expect, as the “hips” of the truck taper outward

We might consider a straight option in the future if we find there to be a lot of continued demand for a rock slider of that shape.

 

[Inkedsphynx]

I prefer the kick-out, so hope it stays. Definitely make it an option if you decide to look at sliders without the kick-out.

 

[electruck4x4]

I prefer the kick-out, so hope it stays. Definitely make it an option if you decide to look at sliders without the kick-out.

It will definitely stay. If anything, we’d just add another option.

 

[SACDFJC]

I wheel a 6k pound highly built truck through the Rubicon, Fordyce and the hammers and I've built my own sliders for many years. I typically I use .188 or .250 wall DOM and with the right hit they will still bend.

While these are an early version and we don't know what the final version will look like. I'm not sure I would trust this design. IMO that rear saddle will bend. There just is not enough material there (even if boxed) to support the weight of the R1T. Maybe it would support the truck with a few tubes added inside the lockout.

If I were building a set of sliders the rear tube would be welded directly to the square tube that runs lengthwise. I am also wondering why all the holes are in the square tube? Unless you plan to weld tube through those locations they are weak points as well. And while we cannot see the front of the sliders it looked like the round tube does not connect directly to the square tube.

Maybe you can shed some light on the final design? Kudos for getting the aftermarket going...!

 

[electruck4x4]

I wheel a 6k pound highly built truck through the Rubicon, Fordyce and the hammers and I've built my own sliders for many years. I typically I use .188 or .250 wall DOM and with the right hit they will still bend.

While these are an early version and we don't know what the final version will look like. I'm not sure I would trust this design. IMO that rear saddle will bend. There just is not enough material there (even if boxed) to support the weight of the R1T. Maybe it would support the truck with a few tubes added inside the lockout.

If I were building a set of sliders the rear tube would be welded directly to the square tube that runs lengthwise. I am also wondering why all the holes are in the square tube? Unless you plan to weld tube through those locations they are weak points as well. And while we cannot see the front of the sliders it looked like the round tube does not connect directly to the square tube.

Maybe you can shed some light on the final design? Kudos for getting the aftermarket going...!

Hey @SACDFJC , thanks for the feedback! With this rail, we are hoping to strike a balance between bringing protection on par with other high-quality rails for vehicles of this weight, while also not completely killing range. It's a tough line to walk, but we feel that .188 is as close to this balance as possible. Having said that, you're right, even the heaviest material will bend if you hit something just right or hard enough.

Regarding the rear dogleg: We're paying keen attention to this and the overhang on the leading edge, since they present the highest leverage, least supported components of the structure.

So why the rear jut in the first place? The frame of the R1 platform is pre-tapped for rock sliders. The first and last mounting points for these rails sit pretty far inboard of the front and rear wheels. That is why you see some creative bracketry between the three companies making rails for these trucks. Not as big of a deal, but there are also plastics that extend ahead of the wheel well and are not easily removable. We wanted to extend the coverage, while staying close to the mounting points and also not require any cutting. This is accomplished via the offshoot.

As I mentioned, this point is of strong focus to us though, which is why we opted to make the extension out of boxed .188 2" tube vs two joined pieces of 1.75" pipe. That being said, you are correct, there will be a number of other spars connecting the main rail to the rub rail.

Last question: What's with all the holes? The bolts for the sliders on the R1 are in the bottom of the frame rail. That means you can either cantilever something off of it sideways (like the DCE slider) or mount directly to the bottom, which is what we opted for.

Seems like an easy proposition, no? Actually, it isn't, as there are a number of large domed bolts that run the length of the frame rail. You can use stand-offs to clear the bolt caps, which we've seen in other designs. However, in doing so you end up with a gap between the frame and slider which leaves large sections unsupported. We chose to instead create cut-outs to encapsulate the bolt heads. It'd be nice to have a solid tube, but we don't foresee this being a deal breaker, since the "hole-y" back of the rail will be butted up against the vehicle frame for nearly its entire length. Additionally, the rail walls, which will carry the brunt of an underbody impact, remain unmolested.

I hope this helps answer some of your concerns. Let me know if you have any other questions!

-Brenton

 

[Casarolls]

What is the outside width dimension? I carry my R1T on a trailer with a width limit of 80 inches from ground level to 10 1/2 inches high. It barely fits at tire width as it is.

 

[TXR1S]

Yes. A more inexpensive step is coming in the future.

Looking forward to more info on this!

 

[electruck4x4]

What is the outside width dimension? I carry my R1T on a trailer with a width limit of 80 inches from ground level to 10 1/2 inches high. It barely fits at tire width as it is.

Let me get back to you on this one. We're doing mock-ups this week and I'll share the exact width difference from stock when we do.

 

[Inkedsphynx]

I had originally planned to wait to see the final product installed on some vehicles but have ultimately decided that the pre-order price makes it worth the risk that I don't like the product, so, +1 to pre-orders placed Looking forward to seeing the final product in person!

 

[electruck4x4]

I had originally planned to wait to see the final product installed on some vehicles but have ultimately decided that the pre-order price makes it worth the risk that I don't like the product, so, +1 to pre-orders placed Looking forward to seeing the final product in person!

That's great! Thank you so much for your trust in us. Your business means a lot and I will ensure I post more info as soon as possible. In the meantime, thanks again for your support!

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