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DuoRivians

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TLDR:

Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power v. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. After window tints, DGR may block additional 15% of total heat into cabin.

Details:

We currently have a Gen 1 R1T and a Gen 2 R1S with Dynamic Glass Roof (DGR).

To measure the sun’s heat that comes through the cabin, I purchased a solar power meter to measure it. All units below are in Watts/m^2.

*Measurements*

R1S:
- DGR opaque: 10.9
- DGR clear: 14.0
- Windshield: 530.6
- Front window No Tint: 400.3
- Rear window No Tint: 116.0

R1T:
- Panoramic roof: 26.2
- Windshield: 537.4 (no difference w/ R1S windshield)
- Front window Tinted with 35% film: 114.2
- Rear window Tinted with 50% film: 49.9

Baseline:
- Full sun outside: 964.4
- Inside Rivian cabin roof: 5.7

DGR opaque v. R1T’s panoramic roof is 10.9 v. 26.2. So, DGR opaque lets in 40% of the sun’s power, ie blocks 60%.

When comparing DGR opaque to the baseline roof cabin (no glass part), it’s 10.9 v 5.7. So, it’s very minimally different. DGR opaque is really close to having a solid roof.

*Analysis*

In comparison to all the windows, however, I think the most effective way to reduce total cabin heat from the sun is to tint the passenger windows with quality IR rejecting properties.

(Next might be to consider tinting the windshield. Personally, my tint shop won’t tint the front windshield or panoramic roof for liability reasons. I also don’t like the low angle haze that’s present in all tints to some extent, which makes the windows look hazy at low sun angles—don’t want this for the windshield’s visibility.)

Here’s the math:

- DGR v Pano Roof Watts difference = 15.3 W/m^2 difference * Surface area of glass roof (~2m^2) = 30W blocked with DGR

- Front Window Tint v No Tint difference = 286 W/m^2 * Surface area of front window (~0.25m^2) * 2 front windows = 143W blocked with tint

- Rear Window Tint v No Tint difference = 66 W/m^2 * Surface area of rear window (~0.25m^2) * 2 rear windows = 33W blocked with tint

By getting the DGR, you can block 30W.

By getting the passenger windows tinted, you can block 176W (perhaps more with the other rear windows in the R1S)

Let’s say the total cabin heat rejection potential in our case is 30W + 176W = 206W.

You can capture 85% of the total potential by tinting the passenger windows. Low hanging fruit.

Then, you can capture 15% of the total potential by getting the DGR.

So, is another 15% heat rejection worth it? Your call, and also YMMV depending on your tints.

Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0579


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0578


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0332


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0333


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0569


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0337


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0338


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0571


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0573


Rivian R1T R1S Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power vs. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. IMG_0570
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iansriv

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Very cool. Thanks for all the research and findings. I have a G1 R1S and got a pair of covers for the roof. It feels a lot better. I did ceramic tint all around including the windshield before this. That did help but the cover was night & day. Cheers.
 

MasterofWilford

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TLDR:

Dynamic Glass Roof blocks 60% of sun's power v. regular panoramic roof. But, tint windows first. After window tints, DGR may block additional 15% of total heat into cabin.

Details:

We currently have a Gen 1 R1T and a Gen 2 R1S with Dynamic Glass Roof (DGR).

To measure the sun’s heat that comes through the cabin, I purchased a solar power meter to measure it. All units below are in Watts/m^2.

*Measurements*

R1S:
- DGR opaque: 10.9
- DGR clear: 14.0
- Windshield: 530.6
- Front window No Tint: 400.3
- Rear window No Tint: 116.0

R1T:
- Panoramic roof: 26.2
- Windshield: 537.4 (no difference w/ R1S windshield)
- Front window Tinted with 35% film: 114.2
- Rear window Tinted with 50% film: 49.9

Baseline:
- Full sun outside: 964.4
- Inside Rivian cabin roof: 5.7

DGR opaque v. R1T’s panoramic roof is 10.9 v. 26.2. So, DGR opaque lets in 40% of the sun’s power, ie blocks 60%.

When comparing DGR opaque to the baseline roof cabin (no glass part), it’s 10.9 v 5.7. So, it’s very minimally different. DGR opaque is really close to having a solid roof.

*Analysis*

In comparison to all the windows, however, I think the most effective way to reduce total cabin heat from the sun is to tint the passenger windows with quality IR rejecting properties.

(Next might be to consider tinting the windshield. Personally, my tint shop won’t tint the front windshield or panoramic roof for liability reasons. I also don’t like the low angle haze that’s present in all tints to some extent, which makes the windows look hazy at low sun angles—don’t want this for the windshield’s visibility.)

Here’s the math:

- DGR v Pano Roof Watts difference = 15.3 W/m^2 difference * Surface area of glass roof (~2m^2) = 30W blocked with DGR

- Front Window Tint v No Tint difference = 286 W/m^2 * Surface area of front window (~0.25m^2) * 2 front windows = 143W blocked with tint

- Rear Window Tint v No Tint difference = 66 W/m^2 * Surface area of rear window (~0.25m^2) * 2 rear windows = 33W blocked with tint

By getting the DGR, you can block 30W.

By getting the passenger windows tinted, you can block 176W (perhaps more with the other rear windows in the R1S)

Let’s say the total cabin heat rejection potential in our case is 30W + 176W = 206W.

You can capture 85% of the total potential by tinting the passenger windows. Low hanging fruit.

Then, you can capture 15% of the total potential by getting the DGR.

So, is another 15% heat rejection worth it? Your call, and also YMMV depending on your tints.

IMG_0579.jpeg


IMG_0578.jpeg


IMG_0332.jpeg


IMG_0333.jpeg


IMG_0569.jpeg


IMG_0337.jpeg


IMG_0338.jpeg


IMG_0571.jpeg


IMG_0573.jpeg


IMG_0570.jpeg
EXCELLENT!

Thank you!
 

connoisseurr

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Former tint installer here. There’s zero liability to tinting the windshield. I’ve seen many shops decline to offer the service because either a) their installations result in too many returns (dust or debris between tint and glass), or b) customers complain about the rainbow effect with polarized sunglasses. They don’t want the hassle of needing to reinstall or remove due to a customer complaint. Also, most shops won’t provide a receipt or any warranty paperwork for tinted windshields in states/jurisdictions, where windshield sunshading is not permitted, or when tint is installed below the legal limit.

Most shops who are providing recommendations to customers for maximum solar energy rejection recommend tinting the windshield, even if it means using a near-clear film VLT between 70-90%. Matter of fact, I always recommended using the most high-end film for the windshield alone, and then using the next steps down for all side window glass. Since the windshield has more horizontal surface angle compared to side glass, it permits more solar energy into the cabin. Example would be installing Llumar F1 Stratos on the windshield, and then F1 Pinnacle on all side and rear glass (or F1 Pinnacle and AIR combination front and rear for an even VLT). This is what I have on all my vehicles and what I recommend to many who are focusing on maximum heat rejection. I also find no value tinting the roof, unless you’re in a year-round high-temp climate (desert-like; closer to ewuator). Here in VA, I just use a sunshade for late-May to late-September.
 

DuoRivian

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Great analysis, thanks for doing this. Sounds like the existing clear roof is heavily tinted if it is 26 vs over 400 for the other windows.
 

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lefkonj

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Did ceramic tint on all glass in my Gen1 R1S, except the roof. It was more than all the other glass combined and just not worth the money.

Great analysis and data, thanks for sharing.
 

jenglish06

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I did ceramic on all windows/windshield and the roof on a gen 2, the roof with 20% is soooooo much better
 

HeyEllwood

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Very cool. Thanks for all the research and findings. I have a G1 R1S and got a pair of covers for the roof. It feels a lot better. I did ceramic tint all around including the windshield before this. That did help but the cover was night & day. Cheers.
May I ask what covers? Would love to get some sometime soon!
 

Yota2R1T

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This is so great, thanks for your report!
I will definitely be looking into front window tinting next year and putting imperical data behind my "feelings" of effectiveness is key.
My only issue with the data presentation was: DGR let's in 40% of sun's power / blocks 60%. This comment needs an edit as 40% of 900+ Watts is ~ 360W.
Keep rocking!
R
 

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DuoRivians

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This is so great, thanks for your report!
I will definitely be looking into front window tinting next year and putting imperical data behind my "feelings" of effectiveness is key.
My only issue with the data presentation was: DGR let's in 40% of sun's power / blocks 60%. This comment needs an edit as 40% of 900+ Watts is ~ 360W.
Keep rocking!
R
Compared to the panoramic glass roof
 

COdogman

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I have found that my large, partially bald head reflects at least 60% of the heat back through the moonroof. Like painting your roof white. ?
 
 








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