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SwampNut

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This is plain and simple:
The calculation and end result is certainly not plain or simple. But your invalid assumptions certainly were and that’s what makes them invalid.

As to towing, unless you are exceeding the stated limits of the vehicle, these tires are still within load range. The maximum axle weight for the rear is several hundred pounds less than the maximum load rating of the tires.
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ksurfier

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I'm torn between going with the SL 116T or the LT version. I like the idea of improved comfort, sound, and range, but I also tow a travel trailer and boat w/ family and gear. I'm typically ~15 - 20% under GVWR, but a little concerned about how the tire will handle @ 44-46 PSI.

Anyone towing w/ the SL tire that can report back on how it handles?

Anyone w/ the LT tire that can report back on comfort / sound / range? I guess less so on the range in this case - more so comfort & sound, considering it's a much more stiff tire. And what PSI are you running on these?
Can’t tow reliably unless it’s LT, option A - Just get LT
Option B - Get 2 sets and change out depending on needs/seasons…
Unless you need every last mile, the Destination XT is a fantastic tire with at least 3-4 sizes that will work, all in low 50s for tire weight.
 

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If you guys are converting from the factory 21" to 20", why not look into the new Toyo Open Country AT3 EV? It is out in 275/60R20 and can be ordered from Discount Tire. It's an LT with 80 psi max pressure and load index of 123 (3417 lbs). Early impressions from the sister forum for the Lightning is good (said to be as efficient as their factory spec tire).
 

SwampNut

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If you guys are converting from the factory 21" to 20", why not look into the new Toyo Open Country AT3 EV? It is out in 275/60R20 and can be ordered from Discount Tire. It's an LT with 80 psi max pressure and load index of 123 (3417 lbs). Early impressions from the sister forum for the Lightning is good (said to be as efficient as their factory spec tire).
that sounds absolutely terrible and the wrong direction to go.
 

ksurfier

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If you guys are converting from the factory 21" to 20", why not look into the new Toyo Open Country AT3 EV? It is out in 275/60R20 and can be ordered from Discount Tire. It's an LT with 80 psi max pressure and load index of 123 (3417 lbs). Early impressions from the sister forum for the Lightning is good (said to be as efficient as their factory spec tire).
That looks like a great option and limited info I’ve seen suggests it does very well from efficiency standpoint.
 

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SwampNut

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It’s interesting to note how much this particular drive that I do around once a month has variable efficiency, depending on where I am exactly. And it has the same effect on my zero as it does on the Rivian. There are a variety of uphill and downhill sections and the wind always seems to favor a certain direction.

This is the last 15 minutes at 78 to 80 before exiting at Broadway in Tempe, coming from Peoria, Arizona.

Rivian R1T R1S 20" Nitto Recon Grappler AT tires 25% more efficient than Pirelli OEM AT! The holy grail! IMG_2482
 

Jper123

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1,000 miles in and getting the same efficiency as OEM tires. 100% AP driving. Much quieter and softer. Hoping the noise doesn’t get worse over time like the OEMs. We shall see.

Reset my trip computer when they were installed. You can see new tires VS total ownership. Both around 2.2 mi/kWh.

Rivian R1T R1S 20" Nitto Recon Grappler AT tires 25% more efficient than Pirelli OEM AT! The holy grail! IMG_4777


Rivian R1T R1S 20" Nitto Recon Grappler AT tires 25% more efficient than Pirelli OEM AT! The holy grail! IMG_4776
 

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ksurfier

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1,000 miles in and getting the same efficiency as OEM tires. 100% AP driving. Much quieter and softer. Hoping the noise doesn’t get worse over time like the OEMs. We shall see.

Reset my trip computer when they were installed. You can see new tires VS total ownership. Both around 2.2 mi/kWh.

IMG_4777.jpeg


IMG_4776.jpeg
That’s great, they look to be slightly more efficient than the OEM tires (2%?), but essentially the same…would be great if you could run a 15-minute test at 65/70 mph…
 

goldburger

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95% hwy. I run the tires at 41psi and they warm up to about 44psi. I get no TPMs warnings at 41psi.

this was in conserve mode for about 90% of the trip on low ride height. Also on the way home it was raining the entire trip.

50 degree weather. Battery temp avg was 70degrees

55 to 70mph depending on speed limit

IMG_1100.jpeg
1,000 miles in and getting the same efficiency as OEM tires. 100% AP driving. Much quieter and softer. Hoping the noise doesn’t get worse over time like the OEMs. We shall see.

Reset my trip computer when they were installed. You can see new tires VS total ownership. Both around 2.2 mi/kWh.

IMG_4777.jpeg


IMG_4776.jpeg
Absolute chaos in this thread. 1.93 in conserve and 2.2 in all purpose lolololol.
 

RivForumWoke

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Absolute chaos in this thread. 1.93 in conserve and 2.2 in all purpose lolololol.
it’s because there are so many variables. Elevation, temps, humidity, etc….

Tire talk on this forum has become hostile. Some swear that they are experts and must be listened too.

as long as the tire load rating matches what the placard on the vehicle says they are safe to be equipped “regardless of PSI”.

the recon is simple another great choice if your looking to switching to twenties or replacing the factory worn 20” tires.

if your looking at any 275/65/20 tire for efficiency you are already losing.

you want efficiency gains then try the 276/60/20 terrain contact H/T or General Grabber HTS60.

I myself have tried many different tires now and I have settled with the recon. I lost a little efficiency from my stock 22” and louder tires but the looks with my BR rims and the capability of an All terrain outway everything else to me.

also, running over the tire manufacture max tire pressure is highly not recommended. The few extra few miles you may get on a tank isn’t worth the safety risk or tire wear.
 

SwampNut

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This is why I'm trying to express relative changes in my commonly driven areas. It does zero good to give anyone absolute mile/watt numbers from my environment, driving style, traffic, etc. I'm seeing a generally more green efficiency graph, that's all that matters. I wanted to do a scientific test and then there was a turn of events that made it impossible.
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