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Sojhinn

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Love those Nokian NAT’s every time I see them. Did you go with the 115 or the LT tire?
115.

275/60 r20 full efficiency. Between the lighter wheels and tires I'm expecting a nice boost.
 

Aonach

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115.

275/60 r20 full efficiency. Between the lighter wheels and tires I'm expecting a nice boost.
Can anyone give some details on the weight of these Soonish wheels vs the Voktaic Black Rhino wheels vs the OEM 20s?

The Black Rhinos say 24lb Sabi gs for the set over stock. Where do these fall at the advertised 34lb?

Looking to go 20s but want to take the smallest efficiency hot as possible.

Thx for any info and input.
 

Sojhinn

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Can anyone give some details on the weight of these Soonish wheels vs the Voktaic Black Rhino wheels vs the OEM 20s?

The Black Rhinos say 24lb Sabi gs for the set over stock. Where do these fall at the advertised 34lb?

Looking to go 20s but want to take the smallest efficiency hot as possible.

Thx for any info and input.
The s00nish wheels weigh 31 lbs. And I can confirm that as I weighed them myself.

Hopefully that's what you are looking for?
 

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R1Thor

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Just my .02.

Everyone's being a tad...myopic regarding weight of the wheels and tires.
They don't contribute nearly as much as 1- rolling resistance (which is going to mainly a characteristic of the rubber frictional coefficient and contact area; so also make sure you're using the correct gauge pressure) and 2- aerodynamic affects of the wheel + tire (turbulent flow causing disruption leading to drag).

In fact, given the fact that our vehicles have regen (not a panacea, but still relevant), the inertial load of turning the heavier tires isn't going to have the same consequence as it would with an ICE vehicle given the fact that you get the bonus of that inertial load giving you more regen during deceleration. So, in THEORY if you'd assume you take a 10% hit because of greater mass about the centroid, but your regen can be assumed at 70% efficiency, you're really only taking a 3% hit) thanks to conservation of angular velocity (momentum).

That added load is relatively inconsequential at speed, by the way. Acceleration and deceleration (negative acceleration) are the greatest factors with respect to rotational inertia (said another way, and probably more accurately: changes in velocity).

NOW, if you have BOTH a high inertial load AND high rolling resistance, that's an issue. As (obviously), you're going to have to keep hitting the 'go pedal' more often than an equivalent high inertia, low rolling resistance variation to maintain speed.

What's the point of my rambling here? There are a lot of variables to consider. Don't forego something just because it's 'heavy,' if you are ignoring all of the other factors, you're actually missing the bigger picture and may end up worse off than when you started.

NOW: if you find a way to reduce rotational mass, drag coefficients, AND rolling resistance, then you're in good shape. However, too low of a rolling resistance also means you're not going to have as much grip, so there's (typically) always a trade-off (some of which can be overcome by tread patterns, siping, and variable durometer rubber across the tread width).

Disclaimer: I'm not a wheel or tire engineer
 

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Just my .02.
I agree with and understand your points. I run some track cars, so rotational mass is a big factor. I am interested in going with some 20" wheels but want to offset some of the additional rotational mass. It looks like most if not all of the 20" tires are in the 54-56# range as opposed to the OEM 21" Pirelli Scorpions (46#).

But the points on rolling resistance are also important. For the track, it's about maximizing resistance/grip and minimizing rotational mass. In this case, for day to day minimizing both for efficiency is the goal.
 

pnwr1s

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Everyone's being a tad...myopic
Automotive enthusiast forums in a nutshell! Pick your trade off

Efficiency vs traction
Wear vs weight
Comfort vs durability
 

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R1Thor

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Automotive enthusiast forums in a nutshell! Pick your trade off

Efficiency vs traction
Wear vs weight
Comfort vs durability
For sure!

Though, I will say: if you compare today's tire tech to a decade (or two decades+) ago, it's improved across the board. There ARE scenarios where you can improve on all six metrics you cited. Though you're still turning some knobs and there will always be trade offs even if all of them go up ↑

I think it's a matter of time. New needs (BEVs, particularly heavy BEVs with crazy torque) mean we need to have some patience in thinking 'fresh' with respect to how to achieve improvements, as you can't do the same thing you did when we were making cars generally lighter and improving drivetrain characteristics to improve traction. This is a whole new ball game! Exciting times!
 

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How much was the powder coating? I’m very interested in these wheels, but definitely am in love with the bronze.
Hoping to order soon so I have wheels for winter.
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