Agreed and updated the thread title accordingly. To be clear I don't at all blame the horn - just a coincidence - and I was very happy with the sound of the horn and the install was super simple
RealWheels has been doing their best to help and is providing outstanding support. Rivian is not. I understand all the service nightmare stories now.
This is EXACTLY what my R1S looked like after my 12v battery died and the tech had replaced it but the vehicle would NOT accept the new battery (there's a system process you need to go through to tell the vehicle the battery is new) ended up taking an entire day to sort that out and it turned out it likely wasn't even a hardware issue but a software bug causing the reset process to not be able to be completed.
WHOA, STOP! Those are not "battery posts!" I am going to say this as gently as possible but also if you want to fix this, it has to be direct. You don't understand what you're looking at. Those posts are various different system cables, and their voltage or lack of it may not reflect the battery voltage. See that one unused post marked "300A"? That's an auxiliary post, seemingly meant by Rivian to be used for extras we add, like say a winch. That one has 12v (or battery voltage) all the time, even when you turn off the car. BUT! I can't be sure that it doesn't still have protection of some sort that could change the voltage. So the only way to be sure is to get to the battery posts themselves, below those red modules. Or to use the official wires by the trailer hit.Makes sense. Was unsure since the battery has 5+ posts (see photos)
If you did it correctly, there's just no chance of that killing the vehicle. But if you made a mistake, maybe. I would for sure disconnect everything if you can without leaving a mess behind. If you used a proper relay harness, simply unplug it. Although I fully understand and support your logic on where you wired it, in order to minimize impact on the vehicle, I would always wire the power supply for any relay from the extra post. I'm not sure what your wiring looks like, because a couple of your previous notes about it seem in conflict.Agreed and updated the thread title accordingly. To be clear I don't at all blame the horn - just a coincidence - and I was very happy with the sound of the horn and the install was super simple
Appreciate your posts - you're right I have no idea what I'm looking at. I just followed the instructions which had me hook up to the positive terminal you see in the bottom right of my photos (just unscrewed the nut, attached the lead and retightened down). This is a well-reviewed horn that has worked for many others without any issue at all.
When I talked to service, they stuck by the manual and said to only charge/jump from the rear leads. It's infuriating because I've talked with 7 different service people (over the phone) and the SC won't respond to them either. I'm sure once I get an actual SC tech on the phone they will understand the issue and be able to quickly resolve...just can't understand why it's taking them so long.
This really should work, and I'd definitely try it. There's a potential added issue however if the charger doesn't sense enough voltage to even try.
I'm happy to make a few suggestions, but most any should be fine. Also I don't know your price preferences. Noco brand is excellent and I recommend it. And I don't know if you are near an Auto Zone, or have Amazon prime, etc. You can find these anywhere.
Thanks for sharing! Not too worried about price. I already have a NOCO Boost Sport but am assuming that wouldn't work and I need a charger/maintainer like you linked above?
You know, I have no idea what that device would end up doing. I'm confident that it won't do anything bad if you use the Rivian-approved pigtails. Try it! My best guess is that it will start power, and then time out when it doesn't see a starting attempt. Mine does (not Noco). But I've seen some that will just supply power forever. I rewired a connector on mine to do just that.
Sorry for the delay. As @SwampNut already noted these aren’t the true battery posts. On the battery itself there should be a positive post (old-school term for the conductive metal connection) and a negative post. On most automotive batteries the posts stick up from the top like stubby metal posts. Our Rivians may use a different physical connection like a block of metal with a threaded hole. No matter what, the terminal distribution block connections under the plastic cover(s) in your pics may or may not actually directly connect to the battery post. If you can see where these battery post connections are for the terminal blocks then you can use the voltmeter probes to test there without worrying about something being between the points you’re measuring and the battery.Makes sense. Was unsure since the battery has 5+ posts (see photos)
I believe the pigtail connection prevents charging below a certain voltage. When I reanimated my truck after 12v failure I was NOT able to trickle charge via the pigtail. Had to connect direct.
