Here is a view from under the truck. Definitely can see some oil. Overnight, it was parked mostly flat and no spots on the street. Probably some gasket not seated when on incline.
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This x1000.Hell nah. Brake fluid can be seriously corrosive. Make them clean it up and find the root cause.
That picture was looking at driver front wheel. Rivian support called and they were saying that its very probably the dampening hydraulic fluid that runs cross front driver to rear passenger and so on. They are working on a plan if they will send a mobile service or take it in for servicing.If that's the rear of the truck, it's definitely the hydraulic lines. The hydraulic lines go from side to side and from that picture it looks like there's some leak in the hydraulic system.
That picture was looking at driver front wheel. Rivian support called and they were saying that its very probably the dampening hydraulic fluid that runs cross front driver to rear passenger and so on. They are working on a plan if they will send a mobile service or take it in for servicing.
Is it just me, or do those hydraulic lines look seriously exposed?I have no idea what I am looking at but here are some areas for those of you that do to speculate over:
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I do believe those are the hydraulic lines for the viscous dampers (or whatever they’ve named it). They are definitely exposed. Photos from the First Drive events showed them looping well below the skid plates. I’d hoped this was going to be fixed by production —very easy to pinch or snag them on a rock off-road.Is it just me, or do those hydraulic lines look seriously exposed?
Edit: as I look at them...wheel off and presumably the strut fully extended...the angle to the hose on the rear one looks...sharp. In my mind I see the wheel coming UP and the half loop of line hanging down and...well it looks exposed. It's just the roll control but still.
There’s the brake fluid reservoir to the driver side of the cowl. Standard DOT4.Yes, he did pull fascia piece in the (37:15 mark) video in an attempt to show the two primary batts. Unfortunately, the camera never really stopped for long at any one spot so it was kind of hard to identify components in that area between the firewall and frunk.
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Someone here had mentioned that he was told by a Rivian employee that the batts (two red objects directly under the air intake duct) are actually 6vdc each wired in series to produce 12vdc. He was told the reason for that configuration was that Rivian could not find a single 12vdc battery with the electrical specs they needed to fit in that spot under the duct? Is that the case??? Until some owner breaks out their voltmeter we won't know.
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Yeah, now they'd say "it's within spec" and "if you feel strongly enough about it, make an appointment on the app, and we'll toss you some Uber credits to get you out of our sight".Called Tesla and they came and flatbedded it the next day and left me a loaner. ... Those were the good old days of Tesla service!
Sounds like I am heading down the same path as you here. Did it cause any issues using First Tech and State Farm?Their website really wants you to finance and insurance through them. Both were high. The financing though Chase was going to be 3.6% for 72 months. Got that down to 3.1% from a credit union, First Tech out of Portland. Then their insurance through Nationwide was going to be $350 a month. Got that down to $85 additional with my State farm with multiple cars and umbrella coverage.
The steps were not too bad. Filled a form on state farm to swap a car for the Rivian. Then added the vin. My agent emailed the next day with the quote and shortly after the pdf of the insurance cards. Then you upload the pdf to Rivian.Sounds like I am heading down the same path as you here. Did it cause any issues using First Tech and State Farm?
For example I see they want copies the of the check that First Tech sends and a tracking number. First tech was ok to comply with that request?
Secondly with the insurance, did you just open a policy valid starting delivery day? Rivian’s requirement to get a proof of insurance with the Rivian VIN seems very odd. Usually a valid existing policy should be enough, at least it is at a traditional dealership.
For what it’s worth in my opinion the Rivian process has not been easier than a traditional dealership. Hopefully they get the process smoothed over, at least we don’t have to worry about market adjustments or protection packages.
I think this is an Illinois-ism. Some of the midwest and especially east coast states are a lot more, er, up tight about this kind of stuff. On the west coast, we're used to updating our policy after the fact.Secondly with the insurance, did you just open a policy valid starting delivery day? Rivian’s requirement to get a proof of insurance with the Rivian VIN seems very odd. Usually a valid existing policy should be enough, at least it is at a traditional dealership.
Thanks, that is great info. I had sent a ping to my guide on Friday but she was out of the office late last week. Glad you found a work around because I have no intentions of starting a policy before I need one.I think this is an Illinois-ism. Some of the midwest and especially east coast states are a lot more, er, up tight about this kind of stuff. On the west coast, we're used to updating our policy after the fact.
I wound up just uploading the current card despite their explicit instructions and letting my guide know that's what I did and why (that I didn't want to make a policy change until I knew the proper effective date). As soon as I had my delivery date, I gave it and the VIN to my agent and got a temporary proof of insurance showing the future effective date. The day before delivery, our guide reached out to us to double-check the insurance info and I emailed the temporary form over to her.
It wound up not being a big deal and fairly easy to deal with, but I still think they should let you pick your date before asking for your proof of insurance...