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Subwoofer replacement, anyone?

kross

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I just pinged JL audio for an R1S stealthbox, I hope they develop an alternative.
I heard back from JL, and they need to hear that you are interested in a stealth box BEFORE they will add it to the R&D list. Now that I have an R1S, I see a ton of potential easy spaces for a stealthbox, e.g. lower rear trunk cargo area. If you are interested in a stealthbox for an R1T or R1S, let them know here https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new?ticket_form_id=424168
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Gavinmcc

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Part of me really wants that.... But I'd be concerned with my truck rattling apart with it. With the stock (unimpressive) audio system it already feels like a tin can with rocks.
Play it loud enough and you won't hear any rattles...play it loud enough, long enough, and you won't hear anything at all...

I want this company to see these here...
 

CommodoreAmiga

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Play it loud enough and you won't hear any rattles...play it loud enough, long enough, and you won't hear anything at all...

I want this company to see these here...
music off, my R1T rattles. Music on, it rattles more. Music louder and it rattles even more.
 

Puttyandnapalm

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I think I will go for a tube subwoofer at some point under the rear seat for some extra bass, but waiting to see some more pics on running a power wire from battery into the cab
 

thebwk

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COdogman

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connoisseurr

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A single JL 10TW3 would be more than sufficient for the R1T cabin. You could justify a second for R1S.
 

COdogman

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I am not a car audio expert but I was always told that round speakers are more effective for low frequencies? After trying various 8-10” subwoofers against 6x9s I tend to agree. This seems like a strange choice for a subwoofer.
 

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kylealden

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Rivian Service has had the panels off three times.

I have considered doing it myself, but I've resisted the urge for a couple reasons:

1) If I break any clips then I have zero confidence that Rivian will sell me the parts I need to replace them.
2) I spoke with a senior Rivian tech and they warned me that several parts of the door panel have molded-in clips/retainers and if you break those then the whole door panel would need to be replaced. (I am suspicious that this is partially why Rivian has been unable to address my rattles).
3) Even if I do improve the rattle situation, I fear Rivian will use my involvement as an excuse to refuse addressing the issue any further.

#1/2 are the primary reasons I haven't tried.
Sigh... the only rattle in my truck is a loose screw that my PPF installer apparently dropped in the driver side door when tinting the window. They also misapplied the door trim, greatly increasing road noise. I was able to fix the latter, but would love to get that screw out (it rolls around when I accelerate/brake)... if I wasn't afraid to break the door panel.

Is there a guide to removing these somewhere? Or any ballpark on what a replacement would cost? Rivian wouldn't tell me.
 

jemkewl

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Pulled the sub out, not ideal. Hopefully something like a stealth box comes along.
AB4BD287-0AE8-45DF-BD58-3E8AC3702642.jpeg
1821397F-3C56-4A7F-9B9E-90111DAA53EE.jpeg
A5DAB53E-E709-48F1-82B7-F3E72207D405.jpeg
Got a Pic of what it looks like without the 6x9 driver in the space?
 

jemkewl

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are you talking about without the box in place under the seat? or with the 6x9 removed from the box?
The former... Trying to gauge the space constraints.
 

Riztnack

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I didn't pull it out but I would assume to say that you can pull the whole box out and make a fiberglass enclosure a drop a 10in easy.
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