Fine Sanding the Woodwork on Trim

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I am confident RIVIAN would not help you replace the wood trim if you destroy it.

Why not? Every other Auto manufacturer will sell you any part you need no questions asked.

It might take a while and of course they would make you pay for it. But if Rivian is flat out refusing to sell spare parts it is going to be a HUGE problem. That would mean that even the most minor damage will result in the vehicle being totaled. And that would make the vehicle essentially uninsurable.

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[OldGoat]

Just saw this... The first question is whether it is rough because the final coat finish wasn't rubbed out. If so, there are a number of non-aggressive abrasives as mentioned before. If, as I suspect, it is due to the nature of the wood, e.g. open pore or heavy deep grain, you need to fill the grain. The issue will then be good adhesion with the existing finish. Since the areas you need to fill are 'indented' you won't have much luck with an abrasive. Although you could try pumice since it is a powder that you turn into a paste, it can be used with some success in this application.

Pumice is most typically used with french polish. I have a love/hate relationship with French polish. Love the results but hate the labor needed. I think french polish is your best bet since it uses shellac, which has great adhesion and is pretty forgiving. The first issue will be color change. Even super blonde flakes will impart some color. That may, or may not, be a bad thing. If you want to darken it up you can go amber or garnet or even darker. You can even add trans-tint dyes to the shellac to get any color you want. You can build up enough coats of shellac to create a glass-top finish. (Think of the finest antiques in the world...they are pretty much all french polish). You will want to use naptha or something similar to make sure there is no wax or, God forbid, silicon on the wood but beyond that shellac should adhere quite well. The downside of shellac is that it doesn't like alcohol (well actually, it loves it since when you mix your cut it will be shellac flakes dissolved in alcohol) and while it is quite water resistant, if water is left on it for awhile, it turns white. Therefore, once you get the finish like you want it, I'd suggest a high quality water-based, clear poly top coat.
So, to summarize, 1) remove the wood, 2) clean the wood 3) buy raw shellac (de-waxed) flakes in the color you want (plus trans tint if desired) and mix a fairly light 2lbcut 4) apply the shellac with a pad (french polish) until you have built up the finish to the desired depth and smoothness 5) remove any excess oil from the finish 6) you could use light abrasives if you wanted to get a glass like surface. 7) apply multiple topcoats water-based poly for increased durability and UV protection.

Or, you could do what I probably would after looking at all the work that is required and say:
"hmm, it doesn't look so bad after all"

 

[trez63]

Why not? Every other Auto manufacturer will sell you any part you need no questions asked.

It might take a while and of course they would make you pay for it. But if Rivian is flat out refusing to sell spare parts it is going to be a HUGE problem. That would mean that even the most minor damage will result in the vehicle being totaled. And that would make the vehicle essentially uninsurable.

I meant, they wouldn't do it as part of the warranty. Of course I'm sure they'll sell you OEM parts. Stock my be an issue for a while.

 

[Capstone]

If it is the finish coat a bit rough or some overspray oddly enough a good old American $5 bill is surprising effective in smoothing finish And not damaging anything. Old trick, use like sandpaper.

 

[jjwolf120]

$5 bill is surprising effective

If a $5 bill works, any bill should work.

 

[Capstone]

If a $5 bill works, any bill should work.

Yes correct, $10 bill is twice as fast! Lol. Works best for overspray.

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