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EV Battery Hits (Master list)

Rivian_Hugh_III

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I have been compiling a master list of battery range reductions from what I’ve read on this forum. Are these accurate in your experience?

MASTER LIST OF BATTERY DRAINS FOR THR R1T
  • All Terrain tires: -12.5%
  • Battery Age (5+ years): -7.5%
  • 60+ mph speed: -10%+
  • Rain or snow on road: -20%
  • Cold Weather (10*F): -20%+
  • HVAC: -10%
  • Heat in winter: -15% to -30%
  • Standard Driving (80% charge): -20%

Are these accurate? What other hits should be added?

  • Towing a trailer as tall and wide as the truck: -35%+
  • Headwind: EV mph + Headwind mph ≈ new EV mph drain for battery
  • Elevation: Negligible uphill drain if you go back downhill.
  • Excessive acceleration: Variable
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SeaGeo

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  • All Terrain tires: -20%
  • Battery Age (5+ years): -10%
  • 60+ mph speed: -10%
  • Rain or snow on road: -20%
  • Cold Weather (10*F): -20%
  • HVAC Running: -10%
  • Standard Driving (80% charge): -20%
A/T is 10-15% per Rivian.
60+mph unknown still. We'll need to see what some constant speed tests give us at say 70 mph with the conserve mode engaged. I'd guess +/- 10%.
HVAC wouldn't be combined with cold weather in my experience/opinion. Those overlap generally.

If I recall correctly, the standard driving profile is 70% charge, but that also shouldn't be applied to to "max range" type calcs. If you need more, you can obviously switch to extended or trip whenever you want and charge the battery further. That being said, when road tripping you'll probably want to limit charges to 80% or less for speed. So distance between optimal charges is probably something like 314*.9(A/T)*0.8(recharge speed)*weather variability. @ajdelange has a good grasp weather variability with his tesla.
 
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Rivian_Hugh_III

Rivian_Hugh_III

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Thanks for the reply. I should have written HVAC/Heat, as I hear both create a draw. Will make those other changes in the original post.
 

Diddy123

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R1T EPA range is 314 based on mixed testing (conserve/sport).
A/T is estimated at 10/15% not 20%
Towing 11K lbs is estimated at 50% range reduction.
Snow/Cold/Speed are all TBD

If you're dealing with all of these things at once, EV is probably not practical for you.
 
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Rivian_Hugh_III

Rivian_Hugh_III

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R1T EPA range is 314 based on mixed testing (conserve/sport).
A/T is estimated at 10/15% not 20%
Towing 11K lbs is estimated at 50% range reduction.
Snow/Cold/Speed are all TBD

If you're dealing with all of these things at once, EV is probably not practical for you.
AT tires, highway speeds, heat/cool, older battery, precipitation and moderately cold temperatures are ordinary use cases. Plus a 20% hit for 80% charging. Are you saying I shouldn’t get a Rivian in that case?
 

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electrictaco

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AT tires, highway speeds, heat/cool, older battery, precipitation and moderately cold temperatures are ordinary use cases. Plus a 20% hit for 80% charging. Are you saying I shouldn’t get a Rivian in that case?
AT tires may be nice for high snow environments, but not 100% necessary for moderate precipitation. I wouldn't suggest going highway speeds (65+ mph) with snow on the road. We don't really know much about battery degradation, but I think 10% degradation after 5+ years is a conservative guess (you will have access to more usable capacity if cells fail). Moderate cold losses can be mitigated by pre-conditioning the battery and cabin while charging or heating with heated seats. I also agree that if you're shooting for max range loss, you should do the calculation off of a 100% charged battery.

In the worst scenario possible: driving highway speeds, in a snowstorm, on AT tires, with a bad battery, without preconditioning or charging to 100%, and running the heater your range is still probably over 100 miles. Idk seems fine by me, but this is all just conjecture anyways. I'd like to see the real world numbers before getting worked up.
 

sub

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What are you really trying to figure out?

Are you trying to figure out how often you will have to stop on a road trip? If so, adding up all of the percentages is not super helpful because right now, the biggest factor on your road-trip stopping frequency actually has little to do with your battery or range.

The biggest factor is where are the chargers and how far apart are they? You can't skip a charger unless you have enough range to make it to the next one. And given the current frequency of chargers, you are probably going to have to stop at most of them. Sure you may still have 99 usable miles left in the battery, but if the next charger is 100 miles away you are going to have to stop. That is way bigger than any of the % losses you are asking about.

But to answer your question, the other factor you forgot about is that you can't plan to drain the battery down to 0, even if there happened to be a charger at just the right distance away. What if you have to take a detour? Or what if the wind direction changes and your consumption goes up? Most people will end up planning to stop with at least 10-20% of reserve.

Also, how often do you plan to tow a trailer at high speeds for hundreds of miles in the middle of a snowstorm? While all of those factors could technically add up, in practice you probably won't often have all of those happening at the same time.
 
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Rivian_Hugh_III

Rivian_Hugh_III

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I threw the trailer in at the end because I know it’s a battery factor. Personally I don’t need to pull a trailer and wouldn’t add that in as regular use, at least in my case.

As for what I’m trying to determine, I’m just trying to get a good handle on what kind of range can be expected of an EV.

Over the past months I’ve continually been surprised that various factors make such a huge difference, like precipitation, moderate wind, or especially cold and highway speeds.

So I’m trying to create a master list of what factors reduce range.

For regular daily use I’d divide distance by 2 to get “there and back again” mileage. So 100+ miles on a bad winter day is really a 50+ mile journey with enough to get home without a hassle.

Like you, I am looking forward to real world numbers for some of these factors.
 

Babbuino

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Let's say I move to Canada in 5 years with my 316mi R1T.
Then there is a snow storm, and an emergency [emergency, so I'm only charged to 80%] occurs that I have to drive 40 miles from my home.
I have 20s, it's snowing, I'm not going +60 due to weather, but it's cold, so I must use the heater.
Looks like I won't make those 40mi without stopping for a quick charge since I only have 31.6miles range ?
12.5+7.5+20+20+10+20=90%
 

Trandall

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@Rivian_Hugh_III, I've had the same thoughts and posted a very similar thought elsewhere. I came to the same conclusion that if/ when all major efficiency drains conspire simultaneously you could realize 100 mile range. I'm ok with this. For me it would be an extremely rare occurrence (1/yr, maybe) We should recognize that EV's are still >2% of vehicles on the road and we are/ will be early adopters and part of that is living adventurously. The important thing is this can be accounted and planned for. If you are the type that carries a go bag with 3 days food/ water and survival supplies at all times I would recommend the max pack and 21" wheels (still better in snow than your current whip). For me I am mentally embracing everything that comes with a BEV including the challenges.
Edit: EV's are <2%... wrong symbol there!
 

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Speedrye

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This math reminds me of the old Honda Civic kids saying they had 200hp after adding up all the possible horsepower their mods were giving them.
 

Trandall

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This math reminds me of the old Honda Civic kids saying they had 200hp after adding up all the possible horsepower their mods were giving them.
Excuse me Sir are you insinuating that Civic didn't have 380 hp!
 

EdA

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Rain/snow increase drag.
Headwind
Elevation
Excessive acceleration
 

Speedrye

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Excessive acceleration
Okay, I do have questions about this. I've had a number of ICE vehicles in the past that were much more fuel efficient when you accelerated as fast as you could to your desired speed, and then just babied it to maintain that speed (completely contrary to what most believe). Some others have used a lot more fuel in doing that and required you to slowly ease up to your desired speed for the best fuel efficiency.

Not having had electric vehicles before, how do most fair in those regards? Technically it should take the same amount of energy to propel a vehicle to a given speed, so what's actually the most efficient? If I slowly ease it up to 60mph, or if I accelerate full blast to 50mph and let my momentum carry me to 60mph? I know the latter will be harder on the vehicle, but which actually uses less power?
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