Has anyone actually replaced a sensor or camera and had the system work successfully afterwards?

[gjman7]

I've seen threads and replies of people talking about replacing these parts and identifying part numbers. However, there are no posts about successful replacements and normal operation afterward.

I have a broken parking sensor with cut, sliced harness wires. I bought a new sensor and spliced the connector back into the harness. Yet, the truck's parking aids still won't activate, even after a full reset or sleep reset. I'm wondering if they've found a way to block me from fixing my own truck or if I just need to do a better repair job.

I'm enjoying the opportunity to work on my truck myself, and not having the parking aids is a minor inconvenience, so I want to do this as a DIY project.

I have a similar problem with the front bumper camera (moisture got inside it), but I haven't attempted that repair yet. I know the service centers typically have to do some calibration with the cameras. I'm assuming that trying that myself will be a waste of time and money without me having the capability to calibrate.

Sponsored

 

[ndmiller]

I'm sure it's an documented procedure, have you reached out to Rivian through a service center or any other method?

 

[Zoidz]

I have a broken parking sensor with cut, sliced harness wires. I bought a new sensor and spliced the connector back into the harness. Yet, the truck's parking aids still won't activate, even after a full reset or sleep reset. I'm wondering if they've found a way to block me from fixing my own truck or if I just need to do a better repair job.

I can't speak speciflcally to Rivian, but some vehicles do require a physical or software based calibration or set up procedure when a parking sensor is replaced. The parking sensor itself may be "smart" with an embedded controller that requires configuration. Here's the functionality of one that I found online:

• Acoustic Noise Monitoring
• Transducer Resonant Period Measurement
• Diagnosis of Transducer Performance
• Junction Temperature Monitoring and Thermal Shutdown
• Transducer Center Frequency Range from 35 to 90 kHz
• Direct and Indirect Measurement Modes
• Rx Gain Adjustable in 0.5 dB Steps in the Range from 50 to 110 dB
• Time-dependent Threshold Values for the Sensitivity Control
• Dynamic (Time-dependent) Gain Control
• Tx Current Range Adjustable from 50 mA to 350 mA
• Programmable Ultrasonic Burst Length
• On-chip Bidirectional I/O Line

 

[Riviot]

Which sensor is it? To confirm, it's ultrasonic?

Post a pic of what you've got and what you see. With photos and more detailed info, I can dive into the service manual and post guides.

 

[DD4ST]

I don’t profess to have any knowledge how Rivian integrates sensors in their cars, but I have heard more than a few manufacturers make it so even things as mundane as a door switch has to be programmed to be identified as part of the vehicle. I had a Volvo like that. I suspect this is an underhanded way to ensure you use their service. I’d call Rivian to get the scoop.

 

[Magicbus]

Sounds like you need go through a recalibration. The various sensors all need to work together so the computer knows what it is "looking" at. Many vehicles you would never expect need to be recalibrated require one after sensor replacement. A visit to Rivian service is probably needed.

 

[gjman7]

Which sensor is it? To confirm, it's ultrasonic?

Post a pic of what you've got and what you see. With photos and more detailed info, I can dive into the service manual and post guides.

I have a '22 R1T. Can't take any new pictures right now as the sensor is currently installed and there's not really anything to show without opening it back up. I'll attach an old photo from before I replaced the applique and cleaned it up. From another post on here (I think from you actually) the broken sensor was PT00013778 on the passenger side. I suspect the driver side one is borked, too, even though it's still intact. I bought a second sensor already and am waiting for it to show up. I planned on trying again next week.

On the dash, I'm getting the greyed out area around the vehicle that says off and a message that pops up in the lower left hand that says sensors are still warming up. Not my image, but it looks exactly like the one I attached with the red hazard symbol along the bottom, as well.

I was splicing the wires back to the harness like a surgeon because I didn't realize the whole face of the truck just comes off. Another reason why I think my repair job was inadequate.
As for the camera, I believe the seal around the lens was compromised which allowed water to enter the housing. After a couple days of blurry images, it fried. Now, it shows a strange static image and eventually the software shuts off the whole surround camera system. It comes back up when I do a soft reset. If I could replace it and just get the system to stop throwing errors, I'd be happy. My goal is to have the backup camera and lane change cameras working again without having to do a soft reset every time I get in the truck.

For everyone else's replies, I read them and I really appreciate the quick responses and support from this community. It's super cool that everyone isn't just digging on me immediately like I expected. What stops me from going to the service center is I'm fully capable of turning bolts and snapping plastic together myself, the long wait for an appointment, the long drive to get there, and the concern that their procedures will force them to replace all of the cosmetic panels that I'm not worried about. That being said, I've been to the service center for warranty repairs before. They were extremely helpful, professional, and did a perfect job. I would be more than willing to go again for something dire.

 

[Riviot]

I have a '22 R1T. Can't take any new pictures right now as the sensor is currently installed and there's not really anything to show without opening it back up. I'll attach an old photo from before I replaced the applique and cleaned it up. From another post on here (I think from you actually) the broken sensor was PT00013778 on the passenger side. I suspect the driver side one is borked, too, even though it's still intact. I bought a second sensor already and am waiting for it to show up. I planned on trying again next week.

On the dash, I'm getting the greyed out area around the vehicle that says off and a message that pops up in the lower left hand that says sensors are still warming up. Not my image, but it looks exactly like the one I attached with the red hazard symbol along the bottom, as well.

There isn't an ultrasonic recalibration procedure. The ADAS only covers camera and radar, but I've attached it. Not DIY.

As for the camera, I believe the seal around the lens was compromised which allowed water to enter the housing. After a couple days of blurry images, it fried. Now, it shows a strange static image and eventually the software shuts off the whole surround camera system. It comes back up when I do a soft reset. If I could replace it and just get the system to stop throwing errors, I'd be happy. My goal is to have the backup camera and lane change cameras working again without having to do a soft reset every time I get in the truck.

Procedures are attached.

What stops me from going to the service center is I'm fully capable of turning bolts and snapping plastic together myself, the long wait for an appointment, the long drive to get there, and the concern that their procedures will force them to replace all of the cosmetic panels that I'm not worried about. That being said, I've been to the service center for warranty repairs before. They were extremely helpful, professional, and did a perfect job. I would be more than willing to go again for something dire.

Same! I recently cancelled an appointment for windshield leak and tailgate latch failing for the 7th time. I really don't want to spend 4 hours of driving there and back twice plus dealing with a rental for something I can do. Especially a latch that they've proven unable to correct themselves. Separate thread coming on this...

Edit to replace guides with gifs, Rivian caught me

 

[gjman7]

There isn't an ultrasonic recalibration procedure. The ADAS only covers camera and radar, but I've attached it. Not DIY.



Procedures are attached.



Same! I recently cancelled an appointment for windshield leak and tailgate latch failing for the 7th time. I really don't want to spend 4 hours of driving there and back twice plus dealing with a rental for something I can do. Especially a latch that they've proven unable to correct themselves. Separate thread coming on this...

Thank you! This is more than I could have hoped for. If there's no recalibration procedure, sounds like the ultrasonic sensors should just be a remove and replace.

 

[Riviot]

Thank you! This is more than I could have hoped for. If there's no recalibration procedure, sounds like the ultrasonic sensors should just be a remove and replace.

Correct. How are you splicing the wires? I recommend butt connectors with heat shrink. Get the smallest size that'll work and heat shrink each, then heat shrink a larger sleeve over the whole thing. And probably some electrical tape over THAT just to be safe

 

[gjman7]

Correct. How are you splicing the wires? I recommend butt connectors with heat shrink. Get the smallest size that'll work and heat shrink each, then heat shrink a larger sleeve over the whole thing. And probably some electrical tape over THAT just to be safe

I was using a similar method but not with that much heat shrink. I have plenty of it, I'll take your suggestion on it. I was also doing it upside down through the holes in the bottom bumper panel while the applique was missing which I won't have to do anymore thanks to the instructions you shared. It will be about a week before the second sensor gets here and I get back into it. I'll update if I succeed.

 

[oliv3r]

Sensors aren't coded or calibrated to the car.

The front and rear are daisy chained together so a failing sensor anywhere will cause an alert.

The radars in the corners are also part of the chain.

Up until a March software release a fault in the sensors would also cause the air suspension to fault as well. Luckily this was corrected.

I'd double check all sensors front and rear and also check your main harness connections.

Source: Repaired a rear damaged R1S, replaced two sensors and one cracked corner radar. No faults since and function great.

 

[captainjp]

Correct. How are you splicing the wires? I recommend butt connectors with heat shrink. Get the smallest size that'll work and heat shrink each, then heat shrink a larger sleeve over the whole thing. And probably some electrical tape over THAT just to be safe

Solder-seal connectors. I recommend flux on the wire for better strand coverage

 

[Riviot]

Solder-seal connectors. I recommend flux on the wire for better strand coverage

Crimping is so satisfying though, makes you feel like you did something to really ensure connection, haha.

 

[captainjp]

Crimping is so satisfying though, makes you feel like you did something to really ensure connection, haha.

Sponsored