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R1T Lease Buyout of a 36 Mos with Zero Down and .00352 Factor (8.48%)

VSG

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No, it's not a "loophole" in the current EV tax credit regulation, it's a completely separate commercial tax credit with a different set of requirements. Maybe this is just semantics, but these two credits are separate and deliberate and intended for different reasons. The consumer credit was passed to subsidize production of new models of EVs - to give them a "leg up". The consumer credit went away after a manufacturer reached a certain production volume in order to not "play favorites" in the long term. The consumer credit was later modified to put on income restrictions, after it was observed that high income people were collecting the vast majority of the credits. Then it was modified to put restrictions on battery material sourcing and assembly, because "China". The commercial credit was put in place to help businesses that rely on leasing, because the consumer credit was acting as a discouragement to leasing.

Leased vehicles are purchased by the leasing company - the leasing company can take a $7,500 tax credit (which just happens to be the same as the maximum consumer tax credit). The leasing companies can, but don't have to, pass that credit on to the lessee. In actuality many do but many also juggle the numbers so that they still make as much (or more) money off of the lease than they would without the credit - people get lured in by that $7,500 capital cost reduction and don't notice it's recovered on the back end. Even if you immediately buy out the lease, you're going to lose a thousand or more of that credit to paperwork costs, which is pure profit (and immediate profit) for the leasing company. That could be to the benefit of both parties, but don't assume it always is.

And yes, like @tjrivian said, the dealer lobby used their power to make this consumer credit happen. Dealers get a *lot* of money by leasing vehicles to people who can't afford to buy. Some vehicles, like BMWs, are sold *predominantly* by leasing (77% of BMWs are leased ...).

Because of this, it's important to do as much research as you can - don't just look at the monthly payment, but look at the total cost of leasing vs buying (especially if you intend to buy out the lease).
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tjrivian

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people get lured in by that $7,500 capital cost reduction and don't notice it's recovered on the back end. Even if you immediately buy out the lease, you're going to lose a thousand or more of that credit to paperwork costs, which is pure profit (and immediate profit) for the leasing company. That could be to the benefit of both parties, but don't assume it always is.

Because of this, it's important to do as much research as you can - don't just look at the monthly payment, but look at the total cost of leasing vs buying (especially if you intend to buy out the lease).
Yes, you have to look VERY carefully. Just doing some VERY rough calculations on leasehackr on the same vehicle, keeping almost EVERYTHING else the same, except for varying the $7500 tax credit and the money factor I get:

1)Include the $7500 tax credit, Money Factor = 0.0035(equivalent to 8.4% APR). Pre-tax monthly payment = $1240.

2)Don't include the $7500 tax credit, but use a lower Money Factor = 0.002(equivalent to 4.8% APR). Pre-tax monthly payment = $1251.


4.8% APR is a much more realistic cost of borrowing money for purposes of buying a car in today's economic climate.

Looking at those numbers, you're really NOT getting anywhere near the full benefit of the $7500 tax credit. Rivian just makes it look like you are by giving you that $7500 capital cost reduction, but they make it all back and more by inflating the money factor.
 
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jlbeau

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Fair point…I leased a 2025 R1T Tri Max on 12/31/24 but in addition to the 7500 ev lease credit I was also given $3000 in YE incentives reductions. I paid zero down. If I buyout immediately I am ahead of the game (offsetting the higher MF of .00352) The ev lease credit and YE incentives reductions were not part of a purchase/loan option. The headscratch is to wait on the early buyout and invest the early buyout funds in an index fund at 10-12% (maybe) and buy the truck at end of lease. I need a minimum return of 9-10% over 3 years to make that option more attractive than an early buyout in Month 2
 

tjrivian

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Fair point…I leased a 2025 R1T Tri Max on 12/31/24 but in addition to the 7500 ev lease credit I was also given $3000 in YE incentives reductions. I paid zero down. If I buyout immediately I am ahead of the game (offsetting the higher MF of .00352) The ev lease credit and YE incentives reductions were not part of a purchase/loan option. The headscratch is to wait on the early buyout and invest the early buyout funds in an index fund at 10-12% (maybe) and buy the truck at end of lease. I need a minimum return of 9-10% over 3 years to make that option more attractive than an early buyout in Month 2
Was the $3k credit the "All Electric Upgrade" incentive that anyone who owned an ICE/Hybrid vehicle could get? If so, it was available to purchase/finance transactions as well as lease transactions.
 
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jlbeau

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No-That incentive ended 11/30. This was an incentive they sent after XMAS to those who had visited an open house. It was was 2025 TriMax lease vehicles in local areas that could close by YE.
 

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DD4ST

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To try to boil this down and for this scratching their head on this lease EV credit vs buy EV credit, as I understand the law leasing is considered a “corporate” buy while buying is considered a “consumer” buy. They are different categories legally and why there is no income or price limitation on leasing, per the law. And, in fact as others have mentioned, the actual buyer of the leased Rivians and receiver of the lease credit is Chase Bank, not the lessee. For Chase, they are simply passing the credit on to the lessee. And you need to do your homework (math) on which is better based on what is offered. For me, I leased my R1T early in 2024 as Rivian was getting ready to roll out the Gen 2’s and was offering crazy good incentives. My MF is close to nothing and I am making money every month over buying by keeping my money invested at 6-7% return (moderate aggressive portfolio). But someone else here mentioned they needed at least 9-10% return to do the same. Different leasing/buying terms than I had. I would not want to bet on 9-10% return unless you are an aggressive investor. BL everyone needs to do their own math rather than just solicit what others have done.
 

JonKohler

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Howdy - I did this exact process and completed it this week. In short, I saved roughly 3400 dollars vs what I was going to do for a cash purchase

Happy to answer any other questions that might home up.

Cheers - Jon

I put together this post on Reddit to talk about what I did:

I put together a detailed spreadsheet with how the math broke down for me here:
 
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jlbeau

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It’s well within the scope of the lease. Sorry you are unable to see that
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