12V access in Gen2 R1S for light bar installation?

[R1SColoradoPowPow]

I was planning to install a light bar on my roof rack with an spod mini6 controller in my 2025 Gen2 R1S Dual Max. I brought the car into the service center for unrelated trim issues, and was having a casual conversation with the tech about my overlanding plans and aftermarket upgrades. He mentioned that the 12V battery in the Gen2 was no longer behind the frunk like in the Gen1, but that (as one would expect) he couldn't share any details about where I could tie into the 12V system on the Gen2.

Has anyone successfully installed aftermarket lighting (or other accessories) that need 12V access on a Gen2?

The only piece of data I could find in the forums was a reference to a pink wire for the trailer hitch that carries 30 amps.
https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...rd-audio-to-add-a-subwoofer.32237/post-608257

Any help is appreciated.

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[R1Thor]

I'm surprised no one has filed an antitrust lawsuit against Rivian at this point.

Given their reticence to enable 3rd party shops to work with the trucks and not giving OWNERS the information they're requesting for the VEHICHLE THEY OWN is insane. They're monopolizing the architecture and service of their own vehicles, no?

Practically every other OEM publishes with Haynes. Surprise surprise, there's no Rivian section.

Its OUR vehicle, we should be allowed to whatever-the-hell we want with it.

Sorry for the rant.

 

[Polar]

The 12V PDUs are still in the same locations behind frunk tub by air intake as far as I know - tie in there.

 

[R1SColoradoPowPow]

@Polar thank you! Found the big red + connection point right where you said it would be. I'll try that next week and report back.

 

[NY_Rob]

...Its OUR vehicle, we should be allowed to whatever-the-hell we want with it.

You are free to do whatever you want with it, but without Rivian's assistance!

I'm actually with you, as someone who doesn't "call a guy" when things break, I'm astonished at the lack of repair/information support Rivian offers. I used to think Tesla was secretive, but Rivian's got them beat by a long shot!

 

[R1Thor]

You are free to do whatever you want with it, but without Rivian's assistance!

I'm actually with you, as someone who doesn't "call a guy" when things break, I'm astonished at the lack of repair/information support Rivian offers. I used to think Tesla was secretive, but Rivian's got them beat by a long shot!

You're not wrong, and I'm not disagreeing with or arguing with your point. I'd just like to point out that the overarching theme that Rivian portrays is you actually *can't do whatever you want with* [your vehicle]. We've seen too many scenarios around these very forums (and on Discord) where owners are chastised or accused of being the reasons their vehicles are acting oddly because they're doing something outside of Rivian's purview with it.

One recent example was an owner data logging using Home Assistant. Rivian tried telling him that was making his phantom drain worse, despite the fact that it's a passive monitoring system (they were trying to tell him HA was waking his vehicle too often, which wasn't the case). It's nonsense like that which makes me feel really uneasy about Rivian as a whole. But we're digressing from the point of the OPs post.

Hopefully someone has some insight as to where they can tap for 12VDC...

 

[jrd]

@Polar thank you! Found the big red + connection point right where you said it would be. I'll try that next week and report back.

I would love to hear how it works out for you. I plan to do the exact same thing this weekend.

I pulled the panel off between the frunk and windscreen to find the 12v terminal there and will use one of the nearby bolts on the chassis for a ground. Not sure how much current we can safely draw from this cable. It appears to go into the east side computer in the cabin (I think, might have traced it wrong).

There are a couple of bolts under a little black flip cover (top most) behind the red flip cover and behind the large round panel clip. I plan to add a ring terminal on one of those bolts but will probably need to be careful not to lose power on the 12v cable while I do it in case the 12v is connected between the two cables that connect to the terminal. (Don’t want a computer to power down, I don’t know what the consequences of that would be on a Gen2).

 

[jrd]

I just completed my install using the 12v terminal. It works well.

I ran the controller cables in through the firewall rubber gasket on the drivers side in behind the kick panel.

The only thing I haven’t worked out is where an ignition, accessory or headlight power signal can come from (ideally from in the cabin for my particular light). That way I won’t drain the 12v battery with the controller circuit always being on. (Last resort is to add a dedicated switch and use a 12v source from the compute unit)

I measured power on the cables going into the headlight box but it looks like that is all digital with a 12v always on supply and two other data lines sitting around 2.3v and 2.7v. So can’t use that easily to determine when the headlights are on I think.

When the car sleeps the high voltage battery disconnects the charger from the 12v battery and the voltage drops from 13.7v (charging) to 13v or less. I could use this signal but would require an intermediate circuit which I’d prefer not to make. OBDII port was another idea but it has always on power.

If anyone knows where to find other power sources near the pedals on gen 2, I’d love to hear!

 

[jrd]

I managed to find a cable with power that turns off when the car goes to sleep. No idea what it’s for but it works for now. It’s the top most pink cable coming out of the bottom right plug in the drivers side compute unit. Looks like it is 14.5v when on and was sitting at 2v when the car was asleep. The thickness of the cable makes me think it’s unlikely to be data so hopefully a small extra load on it doesn’t affect anything. So far it has been fine.

I wasn’t game enough to disconnect the plug so I used an electrical crimp socket (the female bullet style) and opened it up a little more with long nose pliers, wrapped it around the back of the pink cable and slid it down onto the connector from the rear. Then I pinched it closed to hold on and slid the insulator over it. The zip tie is to help with strain relief.

 

[PaythePiper]

I'm surprised no one has filed an antitrust lawsuit against Rivian at this point.

Given their reticence to enable 3rd party shops to work with the trucks and not giving OWNERS the information they're requesting for the VEHICHLE THEY OWN is insane. They're monopolizing the architecture and service of their own vehicles, no?

Practically every other OEM publishes with Haynes. Surprise surprise, there's no Rivian section.

Its OUR vehicle, we should be allowed to whatever-the-hell we want with it.

Sorry for the rant.

Most people lease these things right? They probably don’t want to deal with all the hassle when they are turned in

 

[R1Thor]

Most people lease these things right? They probably don’t want to deal with all the hassle when they are turned in

I honestly don't have the impression 'most people lease' any vehicle. Leases are relatively newly introduced (over the lifecycle and delivery of) to Rivian, so no. I would bet quite confidently most people own their Rivian.

That said, if you don't give people the tools to do something correctly (IE: here's where you SHOULD tap power), they'll do it anyway, and that's a bigger risk in my opinion that they make a sub-optimal choice. Instead, give us the tools to have the best opportunity for success.

After all, there are literally OEMs out there that offer blank rocker panels and open /spare fuse sockets BY DESIGN to allow their owners to install aftermarket components (AV, lights, CB radios, etc).

"Here have an "Adventure Vehicle***"

***"As defined by and limited by Rivian's narrow definition of 'Adventure'

Doesn't seem like the best approach to me. Right to repair, consumer rights, Magnuson-Moss, etc etc etc. I bought it. It's mine. Let me do what I want with it (with the implicit understanding that if AND ONLY IF what I do with it, without a question and with cemented evidence: damages or compromises the existing functionalities of the vehicle, then it's non-warrantable. But otherwise, we have an understanding that you hold up your end, and I hold up mine).

But that's just like.. my opinion man...

 

[Sundar]

I managed to find a cable with power that turns off when the car goes to sleep. No idea what it’s for but it works for now. It’s the top most pink cable coming out of the bottom right plug in the drivers side compute unit. Looks like it is 14.5v when on and was sitting at 2v when the car was asleep. The thickness of the cable makes me think it’s unlikely to be data so hopefully a small extra load on it doesn’t affect anything. So far it has been fine.

I wasn’t game enough to disconnect the plug so I used an electrical crimp socket (the female bullet style) and opened it up a little more with long nose pliers, wrapped it around the back of the pink cable and slid it down onto the connector from the rear. Then I pinched it closed to hold on and slid the insulator over it. The zip tie is to help with strain relief.

Where is this in the car - do you have a pic that can orient me to find and remove this panel?

 

[jrd]

Where is this in the car - do you have a pic that can orient me to find and remove this panel?

It’s behind the drivers side kick panel. You can probably see it without removing any panels. It’s just above the brake pedal. I removed the panel with the OBDII port and LED light just to make it a bit easier to get to.

 

[PaythePiper]

I honestly don't have the impression 'most people lease' any vehicle. Leases are relatively newly introduced (over the lifecycle and delivery of) to Rivian, so no. I would bet quite confidently most people own their Rivian.

That said, if you don't give people the tools to do something correctly (IE: here's where you SHOULD tap power), they'll do it anyway, and that's a bigger risk in my opinion that they make a sub-optimal choice. Instead, give us the tools to have the best opportunity for success.

After all, there are literally OEMs out there that offer blank rocker panels and open /spare fuse sockets BY DESIGN to allow their owners to install aftermarket components (AV, lights, CB radios, etc).

"Here have an "Adventure Vehicle***"

***"As defined by and limited by Rivian's narrow definition of 'Adventure'

Doesn't seem like the best approach to me. Right to repair, consumer rights, Magnuson-Moss, etc etc etc. I bought it. It's mine. Let me do what I want with it (with the implicit understanding that if AND ONLY IF what I do with it, without a question and with cemented evidence: damages or compromises the existing functionalities of the vehicle, then it's non-warrantable. But otherwise, we have an understanding that you hold up your end, and I hold up mine).

But that's just like.. my opinion man...

100% agree with you

 

[Sundar]

It’s behind the drivers side kick panel. You can probably see it without removing any panels. It’s just above the brake pedal. I removed the panel with the OBDII port and LED light just to make it a bit easier to get to.

Thanks! Any idea how many amps it’s putting out

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