kizamybute'
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Had these details posted in another thread that started off about getting key fobs programmed. As these issues have and likely will happen to others, am creating a separate more concise thread just for these two items. While coincidental that they came at the same time the truck was being serviced for key fobs, are completely unrelated. This should make it easier for future members to search and find details in the future and wanted to include ALL of the relevant details I could find in a single thread.
These are options you can try or suggestions on possibly how to handle such issues if you have them. For many, we simply just want to know why something happened, so we search the internet to find answers, regardless if they are issues we can't resolve ourselves. For these two issues, in most cases, Rivian Service is necessary. But, the details are as follows for the inquiring minds.
Can read my other thread here for the originally posted details..... www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/finally-getting-key-fob-replaced-2-mo-update-truck-bricked.11390/
--------------------------
Unfortunately, both issues will require service appointments, so there's no DIY fix available in most cases. But, there may be a temporary fix if the truck is bricked to get you out of jam if necessary. This thread offers some of those possibilities that may or may not work, depending on what the actual cause of the issue is.
An EV bricking is not necessarily that uncommon. Often times it's as a result of the main battery being depleted or the 12V batteries going bad. If you know you were low on state of charge, simply need to plug it in and charge it. If it's completely dead, give it some time as you have to come from below 0% remaining before it gets to 1% due to the built-in buffers most EV's have that allow you to drive short distances beyond 0% remaining.
If you know you had ample charge in the main battery, then you can possibly jump the 12V system, just like you would any ICE vehicle. In this case, there are two ways to do so.
The first and easiest: Take the rear trailer hitch cover off (need a large flat head screwdriver or a coin may work as well to remove the screws holding it on). Once the cover is off, to the right is a circle shaped cap in the plastic. Pop that out and behind it are the jump cables, red and black. Use standard jumper cables and an ICE vehicle's battery. HOPEFULLY, that works and you don't have a bigger issue. If it does, still be sure to call Rivian to replace your 12V batteries and reset the error codes. They should be able replace them via mobile service. (see image below for instructions).
If that doesn't work, you can try connecting directly to the 12V batteries in the frunk. Requires removing the plastic piece between the frunk storage space and the windshield. Both batteries have red caps. Pop those off and connect the jumper cables to the battery terminals accordingly. Red for positive and black for negative. See images below.
You can also try charging the 12V batteries from the rear jump wires on the truck, using a standard battery charger. However, if they are dead and your main battery has plenty of range in it, then the 12V batteries could be damaged and may not hold a charge. It's an option if you don't have access to jumper cables and an ICE vehicle to jump it from. (see image below). However, it's unlikely to work if it didn't work when trying to jump it from the rear cables. So, probably a waste of your time.
Furthermore, if your truck/SUV is completely bricked (dead and unresponsive to key fob, key cards and phone keys), you wont be able to open the frunk, tailgate, gear tunnel or passenger doors. Can try pressing the frunk button 5 times quickly and see if that works. If not, there's a way to manually open it from behind the fender liner at the front of the left front tire. (See image/diagram below. That won't get you in the cab, gear tunnel or bed, but will let you access the 12V batteries. Then follow the instructions in the above paragraph.
If none of the above works, truck will have to be towed. Rivian has a special "break-in" tool they use to open the doors on a truck/suv that has no power. Not a slimjim, but something similar and designed specifically for the Rivian. Call Rivian Service as they will dispatch a particular tow company that carries this tool. Not all tow trucks have them, only those with Rivian towing contracts.
If it's just a 12V battery issue, this appears to commonly happen after a vehicle software update. Not meaning it's going to happen to all trucks when that update comes through, but one particular truck/suv may have had an issue when the software uploaded and installed, which can cause different modules to not get updated concurrently. If that happens, then the mis-matching software / errors can apparently run down the 12V batteries. So, in addition to replacing the 12v batteries, truck's software will also need to be re-updated.
Unfortunately for me, none of the above was applicable to my case. No recent updates. Randomly, the General Control Module (GCM) failed in my truck while it was sitting parked for a little over a day. Per Rivian, is not a common occurrence. In my own research, found only one other public posting of someone having the same issue. As such, jumping the truck didn't do anything. It had to be towed. The tow truck driver had to use the "break-in" tool to get my doors open so I could get my stuff out. They flat-bedded the truck to the service center. Fortunately, they were able to diagnose the issue very quickly. Ordered the part and it was fixed within a couple of days.
REGARDING THE SAGGING SUSPENSION....
I've had this issue pretty much since I took ownership. This is a problem that some others have had as well. Not sure if they were for all the same reasons or not. Likely not. After sitting for a couple of hours, my front air suspension would lower (sag) to the lowest setting, while the rear remained at normal height.
Others reported leaks, somewhere in the system. This, in the worst case scenario, resulted in the air compressor failing as it was overtaxed by constantly running to keep the suspension aired up. While my truck would rise up as soon as I turned it on and appeared to drive fine, I was concerned about it leading to a bigger problem. Took the truck in back in November for a different issue.
At that time, they indicated that the ASU (Air Suspension Unit) had failed. They replaced that on that service call. While I had nothing to compare it to, I did notice that the ride quality improved greatly after this service call. Previously, while the truck handled big bumps wonderfully, there was notable shaking / vibrating throughout the vehicle. Wasn't horrible shaking, but not smooth either, as you would expect it to be over minor road imperfections. I assumed that's just the way it was, until I got the truck back and it no longer did that. Smooth as silk over the same road imperfections. HOWEVER, this did not resolve the sagging issue in my truck.
Just last week (January, 2023), the truck went back in. This time, they discovered that fittings for the "Air Suspension Accumulator" had been tightened down too much at the factory, causing it to deform the fittings where the two pieces seat together to seal the system, which allowed it to leak slowly. This service call, they replaced that part and tightened it down correctly and eliminated the small leak.
Other's have had cases were other parts somewhere throughout the complex air suspension were leaking and causing the same type of sagging. In cases where the leaks were bigger, those were the ones that could lead to a compressor failing as a result of running non-stop trying to keep up. While not confirmed by Rivian, it "appears" (my own assumption), that mine was a less critical issue because the leak was small and it took a couple of hours for it to lose enough air for the sagging to occur. The larger leaks others experienced, resulted in the sagging occurring more quickly. So, if your truck sags in just a few minutes after shutting it off, then you could have a bigger leak and it's a more serious issue that could lead to other problems. So if that's the case, don't wait. Call Rivian ASAP. If it takes a couple of hours, probably just a small leak and not as critical. However, should still get it in for service "soon". It's also very possible that the sagging could be caused by a software / computer hardware related problem.
Leaks in the air suspension could be from the factory or could be from damage incurred while driving. If it turns out to be just a loose fitting, possible that you could trace down the leak and simply tighten down that particular fitting and resolve the issue yourself. But, I would still recommend calling Rivian to get it in for Service either way. Better off letting them fix the issue under warranty and inspecting the rest of it to make sure there are no other problems in a system as complex as Rivian's air suspension is.
Anyway, hope that helps as I'm sure others will run into similar issues somewhere along the way. For the true DIY types, unlikely you'll be able to resolve an air suspension on your own, unless you are a mechanic and understand these systems. For the 12V batteries, there are DIY solutions available to temporarily get you moving again, assuming that the issue is related to the 12V batteries being drained. Could at least get you out of jam and get the vehicle home or to a service center. Jumping it from the rear is relatively easy to do. If that doesn't work, jumping it from the battery itself in the frunk, likely won't work either, so probably not worth wasting your time trying to get to them. But for the DIY type, it is a second option to try. If you do that, might as well not re-install the plastic. Call Rivian to replace the batteries. Will make the service tech's job a little easier to do so and they can reinstall the plastic when they're done. It appears, for most bricked truck issues, it's either, depleted main battery or depleted 12V batteries and simply charging the truck or, jumping the 12V batteries will unbrick it. Good knowledge to have for when it happens while away from home. If it's a computer related issue, then you're SOL until the truck gets towed to Rivian Service. Fortunately, that scenario appears to be quite rare.
I've also included images of my Service receipt notes.
On the bright side, they impressively were able to diagnose both issues quickly and got both issues resolved in 3 1/2 business days. No complaints in that respect.
12V batteries in the frunk.
Service tech replacing 12V batteries.
FIRST TRY PRESSING THE FRONT FRUNK BUTTON ON THE TRUCK 5 TIMES QUICKLY AS THAT "MAY" OPEN IT.
Service center receipt notes.........
From first visit regarding Air Suspension sagging......
From second visit regarding both, bricking and air suspension sagging......
These are options you can try or suggestions on possibly how to handle such issues if you have them. For many, we simply just want to know why something happened, so we search the internet to find answers, regardless if they are issues we can't resolve ourselves. For these two issues, in most cases, Rivian Service is necessary. But, the details are as follows for the inquiring minds.
Can read my other thread here for the originally posted details..... www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/finally-getting-key-fob-replaced-2-mo-update-truck-bricked.11390/
--------------------------
Unfortunately, both issues will require service appointments, so there's no DIY fix available in most cases. But, there may be a temporary fix if the truck is bricked to get you out of jam if necessary. This thread offers some of those possibilities that may or may not work, depending on what the actual cause of the issue is.
An EV bricking is not necessarily that uncommon. Often times it's as a result of the main battery being depleted or the 12V batteries going bad. If you know you were low on state of charge, simply need to plug it in and charge it. If it's completely dead, give it some time as you have to come from below 0% remaining before it gets to 1% due to the built-in buffers most EV's have that allow you to drive short distances beyond 0% remaining.
If you know you had ample charge in the main battery, then you can possibly jump the 12V system, just like you would any ICE vehicle. In this case, there are two ways to do so.
The first and easiest: Take the rear trailer hitch cover off (need a large flat head screwdriver or a coin may work as well to remove the screws holding it on). Once the cover is off, to the right is a circle shaped cap in the plastic. Pop that out and behind it are the jump cables, red and black. Use standard jumper cables and an ICE vehicle's battery. HOPEFULLY, that works and you don't have a bigger issue. If it does, still be sure to call Rivian to replace your 12V batteries and reset the error codes. They should be able replace them via mobile service. (see image below for instructions).
If that doesn't work, you can try connecting directly to the 12V batteries in the frunk. Requires removing the plastic piece between the frunk storage space and the windshield. Both batteries have red caps. Pop those off and connect the jumper cables to the battery terminals accordingly. Red for positive and black for negative. See images below.
You can also try charging the 12V batteries from the rear jump wires on the truck, using a standard battery charger. However, if they are dead and your main battery has plenty of range in it, then the 12V batteries could be damaged and may not hold a charge. It's an option if you don't have access to jumper cables and an ICE vehicle to jump it from. (see image below). However, it's unlikely to work if it didn't work when trying to jump it from the rear cables. So, probably a waste of your time.
Furthermore, if your truck/SUV is completely bricked (dead and unresponsive to key fob, key cards and phone keys), you wont be able to open the frunk, tailgate, gear tunnel or passenger doors. Can try pressing the frunk button 5 times quickly and see if that works. If not, there's a way to manually open it from behind the fender liner at the front of the left front tire. (See image/diagram below. That won't get you in the cab, gear tunnel or bed, but will let you access the 12V batteries. Then follow the instructions in the above paragraph.
If none of the above works, truck will have to be towed. Rivian has a special "break-in" tool they use to open the doors on a truck/suv that has no power. Not a slimjim, but something similar and designed specifically for the Rivian. Call Rivian Service as they will dispatch a particular tow company that carries this tool. Not all tow trucks have them, only those with Rivian towing contracts.
If it's just a 12V battery issue, this appears to commonly happen after a vehicle software update. Not meaning it's going to happen to all trucks when that update comes through, but one particular truck/suv may have had an issue when the software uploaded and installed, which can cause different modules to not get updated concurrently. If that happens, then the mis-matching software / errors can apparently run down the 12V batteries. So, in addition to replacing the 12v batteries, truck's software will also need to be re-updated.
Unfortunately for me, none of the above was applicable to my case. No recent updates. Randomly, the General Control Module (GCM) failed in my truck while it was sitting parked for a little over a day. Per Rivian, is not a common occurrence. In my own research, found only one other public posting of someone having the same issue. As such, jumping the truck didn't do anything. It had to be towed. The tow truck driver had to use the "break-in" tool to get my doors open so I could get my stuff out. They flat-bedded the truck to the service center. Fortunately, they were able to diagnose the issue very quickly. Ordered the part and it was fixed within a couple of days.
REGARDING THE SAGGING SUSPENSION....
I've had this issue pretty much since I took ownership. This is a problem that some others have had as well. Not sure if they were for all the same reasons or not. Likely not. After sitting for a couple of hours, my front air suspension would lower (sag) to the lowest setting, while the rear remained at normal height.
Others reported leaks, somewhere in the system. This, in the worst case scenario, resulted in the air compressor failing as it was overtaxed by constantly running to keep the suspension aired up. While my truck would rise up as soon as I turned it on and appeared to drive fine, I was concerned about it leading to a bigger problem. Took the truck in back in November for a different issue.
At that time, they indicated that the ASU (Air Suspension Unit) had failed. They replaced that on that service call. While I had nothing to compare it to, I did notice that the ride quality improved greatly after this service call. Previously, while the truck handled big bumps wonderfully, there was notable shaking / vibrating throughout the vehicle. Wasn't horrible shaking, but not smooth either, as you would expect it to be over minor road imperfections. I assumed that's just the way it was, until I got the truck back and it no longer did that. Smooth as silk over the same road imperfections. HOWEVER, this did not resolve the sagging issue in my truck.
Just last week (January, 2023), the truck went back in. This time, they discovered that fittings for the "Air Suspension Accumulator" had been tightened down too much at the factory, causing it to deform the fittings where the two pieces seat together to seal the system, which allowed it to leak slowly. This service call, they replaced that part and tightened it down correctly and eliminated the small leak.
Other's have had cases were other parts somewhere throughout the complex air suspension were leaking and causing the same type of sagging. In cases where the leaks were bigger, those were the ones that could lead to a compressor failing as a result of running non-stop trying to keep up. While not confirmed by Rivian, it "appears" (my own assumption), that mine was a less critical issue because the leak was small and it took a couple of hours for it to lose enough air for the sagging to occur. The larger leaks others experienced, resulted in the sagging occurring more quickly. So, if your truck sags in just a few minutes after shutting it off, then you could have a bigger leak and it's a more serious issue that could lead to other problems. So if that's the case, don't wait. Call Rivian ASAP. If it takes a couple of hours, probably just a small leak and not as critical. However, should still get it in for service "soon". It's also very possible that the sagging could be caused by a software / computer hardware related problem.
Leaks in the air suspension could be from the factory or could be from damage incurred while driving. If it turns out to be just a loose fitting, possible that you could trace down the leak and simply tighten down that particular fitting and resolve the issue yourself. But, I would still recommend calling Rivian to get it in for Service either way. Better off letting them fix the issue under warranty and inspecting the rest of it to make sure there are no other problems in a system as complex as Rivian's air suspension is.
Anyway, hope that helps as I'm sure others will run into similar issues somewhere along the way. For the true DIY types, unlikely you'll be able to resolve an air suspension on your own, unless you are a mechanic and understand these systems. For the 12V batteries, there are DIY solutions available to temporarily get you moving again, assuming that the issue is related to the 12V batteries being drained. Could at least get you out of jam and get the vehicle home or to a service center. Jumping it from the rear is relatively easy to do. If that doesn't work, jumping it from the battery itself in the frunk, likely won't work either, so probably not worth wasting your time trying to get to them. But for the DIY type, it is a second option to try. If you do that, might as well not re-install the plastic. Call Rivian to replace the batteries. Will make the service tech's job a little easier to do so and they can reinstall the plastic when they're done. It appears, for most bricked truck issues, it's either, depleted main battery or depleted 12V batteries and simply charging the truck or, jumping the 12V batteries will unbrick it. Good knowledge to have for when it happens while away from home. If it's a computer related issue, then you're SOL until the truck gets towed to Rivian Service. Fortunately, that scenario appears to be quite rare.
I've also included images of my Service receipt notes.
On the bright side, they impressively were able to diagnose both issues quickly and got both issues resolved in 3 1/2 business days. No complaints in that respect.
12V batteries in the frunk.
Service tech replacing 12V batteries.
FIRST TRY PRESSING THE FRONT FRUNK BUTTON ON THE TRUCK 5 TIMES QUICKLY AS THAT "MAY" OPEN IT.
Service center receipt notes.........
From first visit regarding Air Suspension sagging......
From second visit regarding both, bricking and air suspension sagging......
Sponsored
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Different color, different interior, different wheels and tires. It's been useful and fun to try another vehicle and is helping to set my expecations about some things, like the hood movement at speed.
