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Opinion: The truck needs to switch to front wheel drive automatically on the highway.

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loudog3114

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I tried to get my tires rotated at 7,000 miles. By the time Rivian could get me in i was closer to 12,000. I live 70 miles one way from our closet city so i used to use conserve for the trips to maximize my 70% charge so i wasn't dropping below 10% before i got home. Words from the wise my former front tires ( now rear tires ) are toast. Maybe ill get another 1000 out of them.

I would say to only use conserve when you absolutely have too. The weight of that truck seems to burn through fast
How many miles did they make it after the rotation?
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loudog3114

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Yeah, not a subtle bump. Definitely a noise that says "keep doing that and I'm going to break"
Maybe its worse on some then others. We have an 8 year drivetrain warranty on these things, I have a feeling if rivian thought it was an issue they wouldn't allow it to be done under power. There are really no moving parts to break in the process - if it was an ICE awd system even the subtle bump I feel would scare the shit out of me.
 

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There are really no moving parts to break in the process
There absolutely is a moving part. The motor is physically disconnected from the output shaft of the gearbox.
*Edit: The type of motor that Rivian is using for both front and back require energy input just to freewheel and the savings for conserve mode exists because they are disconnecting the motor. They don't have to spend the energy just to keep it spinning since they can physically disconnect them. The front axle doesn't have these additional clutches.
Rivian R1T R1S Opinion:  The truck needs to switch to front wheel drive automatically on the highway. 1666888573895
 
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CommodoreAmiga

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Are you suggesting every front and rear wheel drive car is just sitting at the limit while cruising along on the highway? I can guarantee you you've never even approached the limit of longitudinal grip with two wheels driving on the highway if there isn't snow on the ground, let alone four.
A FWD vehicle is always only FWD. It's going to consistently handle the way it handles (even if that is probably poorly). You're not going to be in a situation where the car SHOULD handle differently (probably better) but it doesn't because you've disabled torque vectoring. The limits aren't changing.

If you take a vehicle with advanced dynamics but handicap it, you may find yourself in a situation where you think you know the capabilities or you think you know how it can/will react but it doesn't. It reacts differently. That's dangerous.

As someone who rides motorcycles and has a penchant for sporty driving I can also confidently say that I have not only approached, but exceeded the limit of grip on many vehicles. Don't take that the wrong way. I'm neither saying I am a race car driver nor a dangerous/bad driver; but I am someone who likes to be aware of the capabilities of myself and the machine I am operating.
 
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loudog3114

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There absolutely is a moving part. The motor is physically disconnected from the output shaft of the gearbox.
1666888573895.webp
Sigh, I didn't mean literally no moving parts. That's nothing compared to ice stuff.
 

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If they tires that were on the front of the truck make it to 15,000 ill be impressed. I would say the tires that were on the back should make it too 20-22? hard to say now
 
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loudog3114

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A FWD vehicle is always only FWD. It's going to consistently handle the way it handles (even if that is probably poorly). You're not going to be in a situation where the car SHOULD handle differently (probably better) but it doesn't because you've disabled torque vectoring. The limits aren't changing.

If you take a vehicle with advanced dynamics but handicap it, you may find yourself in a situation where you think you know the capabilities or you think you know how it can/will react but it doesn't. It reacts differently. That's dangerous.

As someone who rides motorcycles and has a penchant for sporty driving I can also confidently say that I have not only approached, but exceeded the limit of grip on many vehicles. Don't take that the wrong way. I'm neither saying I am a race car driver nor a dangerous/bad driver; but I am someone who likes to be aware of the capabilities of myself and the machine I am operating.
As somebody who's standard cruising speed on the highway is 80mph no matter the weather I'd say if you're ever touching the limit on the highway you're driving way too hard and putting yourself and others at risk.
 
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loudog3114

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If they tires that were on the front of the truck make it to 15,000 ill be impressed. I would say the tires that were on the back should make it too 20-22? hard to say now
Yeah that's impressively bad.
 

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Woof, everyone here just loves pissing away money and time I guess.
That amount of money and time is minimal at best. I would always prefer to have the choice.

I wouldn’t get you feelings hurt. You probably don’t remember when the truck lowered anytime you got above 65 without an option to disable it, then it would pop back up when you got to a stop light. It was really annoying.

On top of that the truck honestly feels under powered with just the front motors engaged in conserve mode when trying to pass in traffic.
 

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I don't like automatic, but I would like to do it with steering wheel controls. Hate jumping through menus while driving
 

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I know from lurking that @jjswan33 is also a high mileager and wonder with his driving if he kept it in AP more and maybe saw a difference?
 

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That amount of money and time is minimal at best. I would always prefer to have the choice.

I wouldn’t get you feelings hurt. You probably don’t remember when the truck lowered anytime you got above 65 without an option to disable it, then it would pop back up when you got to a stop light. It was really annoying.

On top of that the truck honestly feels under powered with just the front motors engaged in conserve mode when trying to pass in traffic.
Conserve mode is a dog if you aren't driving straight since it torque vectors. In a hard corner you're essentially limited to ~210 hp since it's only driving a single motor. Try to let it speed up a bit before changing lanes.
 
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loudog3114

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That amount of money and time is minimal at best. I would always prefer to have the choice.
I'd take the choice for sure. But the impact is pretty big, especially with what they can claim is their EPA range. Lets be cheap and call it a 15% increase in range. In MA electricity is ~28 cents a kw delivered. If I drive 10k miles that's 5k KWh in all purpose mode, $1400. Puts me at $210 saved in a year using front wheel drive on the highway like the most advanced electric car company the world has seen (I am no fanboy, its just the truth).

To me owning an electric car is entirely about getting as much range as I possibly can without changing my driving style. If others feel differently, then keep her in all purpose. No skin off my back.
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