Rivian 500hz Horn Upgrade -- Installed Pics & Video Sound Clip

[kong]

Thanks for the info. Can you please provide the link where to purchase the connector? I did find the horns on Amazon, but for the life of me, no results on the connectors!

So, you need a Deutsch splitter like this:

https://a.co/d/eUS71E2

If you’re adding 1 extra horn then cut off 1 of the green connectors and replace with female spade connectors to plug into the new horn. The other green connector will plug into the stock horn.

If you’re removing the stock horn and adding 2 new horns (as I did), then cut off both green connectors and replace with female spade connectors for the new horns. Female spade connectors can be found here:

https://a.co/d/187G1Ne

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[5280mcs]

got it... thanks for the quick reply. I thought they were pre-configured like what you posted. Now I know what to do. Yes, I am planning to replace the stock horn with both new ones, just like what you did.
Once again, thanks for the info.

So, you need a Deutsch splitter like this:

https://a.co/d/eUS71E2

If you’re adding 1 extra horn then cut off 1 of the green connectors and replace with female spade connectors to plug into the new horn. The other green connector will plug into the stock horn.

If you’re removing the stock horn and adding 2 new horns (as I did), then cut off both green connectors and replace with female spade connectors for the new horns. Female spade connectors can be found here:

https://a.co/d/187G1Ne

 

[mackgriggs]

Thanks to OP and others for the instructions! Got my r1t and r1s second horns added....much improved from the travesty of the factory setup.

1st one took a bit over an hour, but second one was 30 minutes flat.

A few notes:
1. For the light plugs on both sides...take your small screwdriver and really press down into the connector to release the clip. The plug actually slides out fairly easy with just the screwdriver pressure. If its not coming out you probably are not pushing deep enough.

2. Sometimes the plastic screw/clips came out of the holders on the trim pieces, so if that happens, get the screw out and put it back into the holder. I also broke 1-2 of these on each car...probably impossible to break some if you are not a service center tech doing multiple of these a week.

3. I did put the horn in the same place as the OPs video. I did remove the black metal bracket though to get it in easier. Its not going anywhere but can still move a little bit so I did ziptie it up a bit.

4. Dont take out these clips for the side pieces. Just unclip the rest and put a towel under the side pieces to prop them up a bit. No need to fully remove the side trim pieces.

The big thing I noticed though with the hella horn, and let me know if yours is the same, but I'm getting a rattling/vibration sound when honking now. I know its not from the horn vibrating against metal since I took it out and put it on a blanket. Maybe its just the way the horn is, or maybe I got 2 defective ones? But doubtful since rare to get 2 bad ones.

 

[Partagas]

Alright, the much awaited summary is here @kong


Step 1: Turn steering wheel to full-right lock to provide clearance between tire and wheel liner. Remove seven TP20 screws that secure the passenger side wheel liner. You don't have to remove all of these, but I found that removing all of them now makes it much easier to align the wheel well liner before reinstalling.

Important notes:

• These screws are TP20 (Torx PLUS) and not normal Torx screws. Make sure you have a TP20 tool and not a regular T20 tool. Even while using the correct TP20 socket, they're incredibly easy to slip/round if you're not careful.
• Make a note of the wheel well liner position before you begin. The wheel well liner tucks up underneath the fender trim all the way around the wheel. When you start manipulating it out of your way in the next few steps, it may pop out from behind the fender trim in other places.

Step 2: Observe stock horn location, and unplug stock horn. The stock plug is in fact a Deutsch connector, and the Y-splitter linked previously in this thread works perfectly. In my install, I found it best to relocate the stock horn, and install the aftermarket HELLA 500hz in its place. Fun fact: the stock horn is a HELLA 400hz horn.

Step 3: Plan out your installation. If you have a horn with a Deutsch connector preinstalled, you may be able to mount it using the provided bracket to one of the many mounting points available in this area. Originally, I tried to attach the aftermarket HELLA bracket to the end of the stock horn bracket, but this did not provide enough clearance between the two horns, and also fouled on the wheel well liner itself when reinstalling. I decided to move the stock horn up and to the right from the stock bracket, mounting to a small hole already drilled in the metal subframe/bracket holding everything here together. I then soldered and shrink wrapped my Y-splitter to the new horn, leaving the other end as a Deutsch connector to plug into the stock horn.

Step 4: Securely fasten your aftermarket horn in place. I used blue Loctite to make sure it wouldn't unscrew itself due to NVH, and I recommend doing the same for these metal-on-metal fasteners.

Important notes:

• Make sure you position both horns such that they won't collect water. The bell of these horns is a perfectly shaped funnel. Avoid potential issues by positioning the bell level or below so that water doesn't collect inside. When I first opened up the wheel well liner last night, there was a considerable amount of water inside from recent rains and wet weather driving.
• Securely fasten down your cable lengths with zipties or similar fasteners, and trim them appropriately. There seems to be an exposed gear in the area that I didn't investigate too much, but definitely want to make sure your cables and zipties avoid. Consider how the cables may move while you drive the vehicle, and be sure to fasten them down appropriately to avoid issues.

Step 5: Ensure all plugs and fasteners are snug, then reinstall the wheel well liner. Make sure to position the wheel well liner underneath the fender trim all the way around the side. Do not overtighten the TP20 screws. Some of them appear to screw into plastic, and will easily strip the threads.

Important notes:

• Adjust the position of the wheel well liner before tightening the TP20 screws. It may take a little work to get it just right.
• Use the lower trim piece to align up to the wheel well liner while tightening the 4 lower screws that secure it. I've highlighted the lower trim piece in blue below.

So, you need a Deutsch splitter like this:

https://a.co/d/eUS71E2

If you’re adding 1 extra horn then cut off 1 of the green connectors and replace with female spade connectors to plug into the new horn. The other green connector will plug into the stock horn.

If you’re removing the stock horn and adding 2 new horns (as I did), then cut off both green connectors and replace with female spade connectors for the new horns. Female spade connectors can be found here:

https://a.co/d/187G1Ne

Thanks guys for making the installation of an additional passenger-side horn so easy. This literally took me 30m and required no frunk removal. A local mechanic did a friend's R1S for $50. This is by far the simplest way to make your horn louder.

 

[350Industrial]

Just completed the install through the passenger side wheel well- no sweat. Sounds much better. Thanks for the great write up here!

 

[nfrank]

Anyone notice that if you add a second horn in the passenger side in the stock mounting point that the plastic in the front doesn’t have a cut-away?

 

[pointless]

Tried to honk in support of a protest. Protester, “your horn sucks.”
Hitting Buy Now, now.

How is Model Y horn sooo much better. Then again replaced or upgraded horn on 2 or 3 of my Toyota trucks over the years.

 

[Kylechoffman]

Has anyone successfully completed this upgrade on the gen2 R1S?

 

[pointless]

Did I get the wrong horn version? The Hella 500MHz horn has 2 spade plug/male connectors. It does not match the receptacle on the 2 in 1 Deutsch Dual DT Adapter Y Connector.

 

[RomanN]

@RealWheelsEV @RealWheelsEV Bean - Need to know if/when you guys are coming out with a Gen 2 2025 horn kit. I honked at someone today who didn't go when the light turned green and they didn't even hear it the first time.

 

[Kylechoffman]

@RealWheelsEV @RealWheelsEV Bean - Need to know if/when you guys are coming out with a Gen 2 2025 horn kit. I honked at someone today who didn't go when the light turned green and they didn't even hear it the first time.

No one hears the Gen2 horn. Its dangerous.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

I just realized my how-to got merged into the OP here, and it broke a lot of the attached photos. Sorry, folks!

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Did I get the wrong horn version? The Hella 500MHz horn has 2 spade plug/male connectors. It does not match the receptacle on the 2 in 1 Deutsch Dual DT Adapter Y Connector.

Hella does make horns with spades and Deutsch connectors pre installed. You may have gotten the spade connector version of the horn accidentally. If you're proficient with a soldering iron, should be a quick fix. See step 3 in my post here: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...alled-pics-video-sound-clip.22096/post-472313

 

[pointless]

Thanks @SPITmadFIRE. Thanks for the reply. I can bust out the soldering iron. I’ll probably chop off one of the DT receptacles from the Y and soldier on 2 spade receptacles (keep it swappable). I was hoping to make the job as quick as possible, 100% plug and play.

Quick question: The Y that I got has odd zigzag (3rd) opening in the Deutsch connector receptacle side. Can I ignore that; do the 2 pins opening on this Y line up with the 2 pins R1T on the horn connector? Confirming the Orange and Green connectors in the photos work together.

It looks like they will, just want to be 100 before I pull off the wheel well liner.

From your post.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Thanks @SPITmadFIRE. Thanks for the reply. I can bust out the soldering iron. I’ll probably chop off one of the DT receptacles from the Y and soldier on 2 spade receptacles (keep it swappable). I was hoping to make the job as quick as possible, 100% plug and play.

Quick question: The Y that I got has odd zigzag (3rd) opening in the Deutsch connector receptacle side. Can I ignore that; do the 2 pins opening on this Y line up with the 2 pins R1T on the horn connector? Confirming the Orange and Green connectors in the photos work together.

It looks like they will, just want to be 100 before I pull off the wheel well liner.

From your post.

Those look identical to the one I ordered from Amazon. The photo from my post is the vehicle side of the adaptor. The third hole you're mentioning is totally fine, and the positive and negative leads should line up perfectly well to the stock horn's plug.

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